Bullet

I run a compound kit by DPS (Diesel Power Source)...a 62/65/12 over s475/96/1.10 and a 3 piece manifold. Current injectors are 7x.010 but I will be going bigger in the future. Also run a Smarty/TST Comp stack that will dump the fuel. I did a lot of research before I bought them and they had very good reviews. My personal experience was a very straightforward install with excellent directional literature and no nightmares. Shipping was immediate and timely. I called them a few times during the installation and they answered all my questions and offered tips and advice on things I didn't think to ask. The kit was turnkey complete...included the high flow air filter, heavy-duty boots and clamps, the downpipe and everything in between...even the 3 piece exhaust manifold, manifold gaskets and fiberglass wrapping for the elbow. Nothing else was needed to install and no parts were left out of the kit. Installation was very laborious but not difficult. Took me 3 days (6-8 hours/day) but I also did headstuds, intake horn, valve adjustments, heat exchanger delete, trans line rerouting, coolant line rerouting, coolant change, 5" exhaust and oil/filter change all at the same time. If I had to do it over again I would have built the entire system outside the truck and drop it in as one assembly. Kind of a pain in the arse to build it as directed on the engine due to limited work space/access and the general weight of the parts. After clocking the turbos and all other adjustments everything fit perfectly...nothing rubs or contacts anything that it shouldn't and both turbos are solidly mounted. Downpipe fit perfectly too. Batteries stay in the stock location. It's a well engineered kit. Under daily driving conditions it spools and drives just like stock...you would never know they were in there unless you mashed it. On hard accel boost comes on hard and fast but linear and consistent...transition between turbos is seamless. I've seen right at 60psi with my 7x.010's and TST juiced up but you'll see up to 70-75psi with bigger injectors and a competent fueling module...but they are wastegate adjustable down to 50psi max. EGT's now are a non-issue...1100-1150 is the most I've seen. I only tow a bass boat...mostly use the truck as a fast play toy. I've had zero issues since install...have about 10k on them. I paid $3200 or $3400 for the entire kit but I think it's up to $3600+ now...unless you get the bigger ones which are a 364 and 480 for $4000+. They are a lot of fun and you will be able to hear them.

From what I understand the UK has had troubles working right during any temperature? But it sounds like things will be improving soon though...with the recent election. Yes A/C is mandatory here. And it is everywhere that women assimilate...otherwise the complaining would be unbearable. It's already bad enough with the A/C. But real men still do without on many jobs and activities. Things only shut down here during hurricanes. Those guys at the Caterpillar warehouse sound like softer men...which is dangerously close to being a woman. But that seems to be a trend these days.

You guys don't know how good you got it. Only time we get below 90s here is when a hurricane is coming through...and our record temps are in the triple digits. Mid 70's are the night time lows. Humidity level is rarely below the temperature...even at night. Heat and humidity is just part of life here on the TX gulf coast. But the fishing sure is good though.

My gauge is in the hot line and I see a stable 150 driving around town. 180-185 in traffic...195 is the highest I've seen. These figures are all post heat exchanger removal for compounds.

Exhaust leaks, boost leaks, turbo/wastegate issues?

I used a vacuum pump and gauge set from one of the auto parts stores on the loaner program...saved a bunch of $. Instead of pressuring the system I pulled a vacuum and let sit for 30 mins to check for leaks. I would do what @Ed ke6bnlsaid fill the new accumulator and condenser to spec and measure what comes out of the compressor to match. It's not a hard job just take your time and make sure all your connections are done right and you won't have any leaks.

Worth it...yes. I didn't have to grind knuckles on mine and I was running stock 16's at the time. I got mine from the stealership a while back for $300ish. I've heard of some saying the knuckles were a different taper but I think that's earlier trucks...mine were the same taper. There's a chance that your pitman arm hole may be too small. Mine was and I had to buy a reamer tool. Removed the pitman arm from the truck and reamed it out to fit right...works perfectly. The bar itself is a hell of alot beefier than your stock one...definitely a strength upgrade. You can cancel easily add grease zerts to it if you get one without them. $255 is a good price for one with zerts already.

That Derale is a nice piece. I was gonna get one since I removed my heat exchanger but I just haven't seen the high temps I was expecting. I hot rod it mostly and only tow a bass boat. But so far so good.

1/16 is about as good as I could do with the string method. But on a machine then 0.00 is the ultimate goal on a solid axle...just like what your rears are at. The factory toe in spec is probably to put outward tension on the crappy Y steering design to keep it from folding up like a pretzel...which I've had happen before.

Rubbish indeed! I think y'all will be getting out by then...hopefully without cutting a deal. Boris Johnson and Nigel Farage are good friends with Trump and he wants it to happen too. I love Farage...he's got balls and is super smart...and a cool dude too. I see good things coming. Cheers!

110 psi? Did it feel like you were rolling on stones for wheels? I had a tire go on my BMW X5 sport with wide rears. I wasn't ready to buy a full set yet so I bought a Nankang (China) for cheap brand new and it has worked just fine. But for a full set I'll be looking elsewhere.

You know it's really small things like this that we can easily take for granted in the USA...as our choices are almost endless...and not just pertaining to tires. I greatly appreciate all the freedoms we have and those that made them possible. Sorry off topic...I'm feeling extra patriotic today. On topic I would stay away from any tire rated that low. Kinda gives you an idea of the quality of the tire. I would look at other tire sizes if it meant that I had more choices. There's not a tremendous difference in height, if any, between a 285/75/16 and a 305/70/16. The 305 will be just slightly wider tread...that's all. They will both go on the same wheel size. Good luck with your purchase!

When I buy tires I buy for true size rather than what the manufacturer says. I'm running what I call 33's now which are 305/55/20's and an actual rolling size of 33.2. Some call them 35's cuz they are >1" taller than 33/12.50's. My next tires will be what I call 35's which are 325/60/20's and an actual rolling size of 35.4. Some call those 37's.

Lol...very creative...awesome artwork! Nice looking truck too! On tires marked 33 or 35/12.50 you can take a full inch off of that after they get mounted and installed. They are really 32's and 34's true size...or less. What I'm saying is that tires will roll a full inch shorter than the manufacturer says on the truck. So your 35's which are a manufacturer stated 34.06's are actually closer to 33.06 rolling on the truck...or even less. How else could you explain why you have your Smarty set to 32.75 and your speedo is gps correct? Why don't you have your Smarty set to 34.06...or even 35? Because the tire is actually 32.75 or very close to it. Not even a true 33 inches. I don't have a problem with you believing you have 35's if that's what you want to do. You can even call them 40's if it makes you feel good. Cheers!

Lol...more like 2"s

Looks like our definitions of 35's differ slightly...no worries.

I thought you said you had 35's? 285/75/17 is far from a 35. My previous 305/75/16's were only 34.2 new and 34.0 after some wear. 285/75/17 is more like a 33...big difference.

Yep...unfortunately that's part of it. But also a good time to experiment with different Catcher and REVO settings as well so you can kill 2 birds... I just rip it down the highway about 5 exits down, pull in at the gas station and make adjustments. Then head back the other way and do the same. I've had 3 different tire sizes so I've had to do this 3 times in 20+ years of ownership. Not hardly what I would call an inconvenience. Cutting my truck in half, removing 2 feet of frame and welding it back together was a horrendous inconvenience...by comparison.

Agreed...save your brain cells for something that requires actual thought. It's simple, the GPS does all the thinking for you. GPS the truck and adjust the Smarty tire size so that the speedo matches the GPS perfectly at highway speed. Whatever tire size matches the speedo and GPS together is your actual tire size...no thought required.

I might be one of them. I cruise at 2k which puts me at exactly 80 mph on gps and speedo (Smarty corrected) with 33's. Lot of concrete to cover here in Texas.

Once you do verify it with GPS you'll learn at that point that you are 5 mph off. But to each their own. I was just trying to find out the reasoning behind it...thought I might have been missing out on some new trick.

I'm a bit confused about why you are running 35's and have the speedo set to 32.75". Your speedo is about 5 mph slow...you are actually going about 77-78 mph. Mpg hand calculations are negatively affected and a higher risk of getting a speeding ticket. Only benefit I can think of is a few hundred less miles on the truck at resale...or am I missing some other reason to do that?

Coasting @ <60 maybe. I'm currently running true size 33.20" tires with speedo GPS calibrated dead-on with the Smarty and 65 mph gives me 1625rpm...60 mph @ 1500, 70 @ 1750, 80 @ 2000, 100 @ 2500, starts burying the needle @ 3000.

Sorry no offense...it was more of a rhetorical question.

That's an expensive and time consuming lesson! I would rather just read. @Me78569had the luxury of exposure to both and has already done an extensive amount of data logging on the Smarty and was generous enough to post it all on here for us to analyze. I have spent a lot of time just going through his logs...cuz it takes a lot of time. There is much more info on the Smarty on here in regards to revo settings and sw settings and how they work together done by @pepsi71ocean. These two guys have taught me a tremendous amount about the Smarty. Since I run a Smarty and a TST Comp I have done a lot of reading of all that info. But if you want to reinvent the wheel and spend $700+ to do it...by all means go for it. I will be happy to read your findings...but the info is already on here. @Me78569had@Me78569had@Me78569had@Me78569had