Bullet

I used one on my previous truck with no problems...definitely made it easier. The one I used didn't resemble either one you listed though. It was a setup similar to a valve on a tire stem (push to release). It had a separate fitting with a hose that screwed onto the pan fitting that released the valve. A little more tamperproof than the ones you listed. All my trucks have always been lifted so I never had any problems with ground clearance. On this truck I replaced the OE drain plug with an aftermarket that has a separate gasket and a hex head on it for easier removal. I also replace the gasket periodically.

That's very much the occasion I hope to catch and prevent as well. I have over $5k in my tranny so I want to know what's going on with it in real time.

This was exactly my thoughts on it...and too late to prevent any serious problems.

I took pics of my setup like @IBMobilebut can't seem to get it downloaded to here. When you temp it coming right out of the tranny you get the temp of the fluid at its hottest which is what I prefer to know. If you are blowing 300 degrees out of the hot pipe, your pan temp sensor would never let you know that. Meanwhile you have already cooked the trans fluid. The hot pipe is a more 'what's going on right now' reading whereas the pan is more of a 'what has been going on recently' kinda reading.

OK...I'll take a pic and post when I wake up tomorrow am. It is similar to what @IBMobile just posted...the difference is that mine is closer to the transmission right after the line exists the tranny. IBMobile's is a little further down that same line closer to the heat exchanger. Mine no longer has a heat exchanger since I put the compound turbos in. But both are the same in regards to trans temp right out of the hot line of the tranny. I'll post a pic of mine tomorrow am.

The best place to read from, according to your needs, is spliced into the front line coming out of the transmission. It is the hottest at that point...before it goes into any cooler. The ports in your pic are for pressure readings in different gears. I used to have mine hooked up there and it gave me lackluster readings. But now I have it spliced into the line mentioned above and I get very proactive readings now. I simply cut the line and spliced into it with half inch compression fittings with a Tee to screw in my temp sensor. I can take a pic of it tomorrow when the sun comes up if you would like.

This is by far the best trick...except I cranked the motor and let the power steering do the work. I didn't even get in the truck...just stood next to it and reached in with one hand to bump the wheel. My brother is completely worthless so I did it all myself. I changed to the freespin lockable hubs so I'll never have to do it again...

You'll like this setup...same thing I run and it rips. I hope that your tranny is ready cuz it will smoke anything stock.

I googled Dana 60 front brake shields and all kinds of stuff came up from several different companies. Dorman was one of them...

You really need to do some reading on the subject...search "dodgezilla", another name for it. Mike is only running it because it works with his exhaust brake and it was free. Otherwise it would not be his first choice. A hx35 can be converted to a hybrid with a 60mm compressor wheel for $300 and a 12cm housing for $400 and your free labor to disassemble and reassemble it. At that point you still have have a weaker (skinny) main shaft and a smaller turbo compared to other turbos that will spool the same, provide more air and support more hp...and it's still a used turbo. If you were given one like Mike was...then by all means go for it. But if you have to spend money...much better money can be spent on a turbo.

I also coiled up the excess rather than cutting for fear of the same.

Yeah that sounds about right. Mine bounces about the same...no problems. I would consider a mechanical lift pump before I looked at another electric. Do your research on both types before purchasing...I did and ended up going with a Fuel Boss mechanical pump with no regrets.

The 35/40 is old tech...sorry Mike. There are better options out now. If you want the biggest turbo you can get with minimal (if any) lag...get a 62/65/12 and put your 150 injectors back in. You'll get around 40+psi boost, 450-500hp depending on tune, controllable egts and smoke, and it will be a fun and pleasurable daily driver that can tow as well. It's also a great upper in a compound setup with even bigger injectors once your wallet gets fatter. I run a 62/65/12 in a compound setup with a 75/96/1.32 underneath it with only 7x.010's (150hp) injectors and it just flat rips up to around 60psi and spools very similar to stock. It daily drives like a stock truck until you mash it...very enjoyable to daily drive.

I put together my own 'lift kit' cuz nobody offered a kit that would go as high as I wanted to go. But if I were only wanting 3 inches front and back I would consider a body lift for about $250-300 in parts kit and my own free labor. Don't even have to touch the suspension and keeps all original alignment specs.

This pretty much sums it up perfectly. I heard a popular diesel mechanic shop on y-tube once claim that the perfect truck would be a Ford Superduty truck and frame with a Cummins engine and an Allison transmission. I would be very happy if I had my complete power and drivetrain in a Superduty truck.

I day trade mainly but also buy/sell properties and do all my own rehab work. You are correct about proper loading. Most of the weight was center axle back. I figured it would be fine for the short trip...I figured wrong.

Mine had a pallet of porcelain floor tile in the bed that was about 2000 lbs and it twisted up the frame like a pretzel about a foot behind the cab. 1st pic repaired and shortened, 2nd pic frame bent.

This is true and I have first hand experience as well. My truck used to be a long bed regular cab but I tweaked the frame exactly in that spot. It's the only reason that I'm a regular cab shortbed now...because I cut the bent part completely off of it and replaced it with a straight back half of a 1/2 shortbed. Well I guess another reason is cuz it looks cool and my truck is one of a kind since Dodge didn't make a reg cab shortbed diesel. It only weighs 6k lbs now and is much stronger than before since it is welded, 3/8" steel plated and fully boxed in that area. Surely the strongest part of the frame now. Hardly anybody notices except for real truck enthusiasts...which I take as a compliment that I did a professional job. But it is true...the 2nd gen frames are weak in that area.

Yes...turbo is poorly sized and fuel is laughable. Sure it will eventually spool up and make a little power...but not usable power like you say. Can't tow with it, can't hardly drive it in town, drive pressure is up, boost is down, egts are up...just a big slow hot pig that probably can't outrun its own smoke cloud. I bet it completely sucks to drive. Do some more reading through the forums. There are many proper setups on here that are tried and tested to be solid combinations for different goals. A 66 single on stock injectors is not one of them.

This is the direction I would look towards as well. I haven't seen anything on the market for something like that...so my default is usually to make it myself.

Lol...no worries and no judging. What you said is truth. Marriage is not a consideration for me. Women have drastically overvalued themselves and drank all the feminist Cool-aid. Now they are worthless. I only have one use for them...which usually only lasts 2-3 minutes on a good day. The rest of the day is mine. It was easy to contract out all duties of a wife while still retaining complete control of my finances and assets and all decision making. Hence my poor decision making on man toy purchases.

For practical usage...yes this is all 100% correct. But not everyone fits into the same box. Mine is strictly a playtoy and it is lifted and leveled for asthetic reasons only...and because the chicks dig it. It's not a daily driver so not too concerned about gas mileage or practicality...it just pulls the boat and a utility trailer every so often. My other playtoy is many times worse in regards to practicality and fuel economy. Not married so I donate some of my disposable income to stupidity...

That's an excellent guide to go by. I wish I would have had this way back in the day.

I have a modular exhaust manifold now that was pre-drilled and tapped...but way back in the day I drilled and tapped my stock manifold successfully. I drilled and tapped the back pipe of the collector. I just found the fattest part of the back pipe of the collector in between the turbo flange and the beginning of the collector and drilled there. The drilling process was done with the engine idling the entire time so that shavings would be blown outward. I started with a center punch and a very small pilot (1/16-3/32), then increased by a 1/16" until I reached the desired size. This kept the shavings small and light so they were easily blown out by the exhaust pressure. I did not use any grease cuz I wanted the shavings to fly instead of stick. Also did not remove the turbo or anything else. Then I followed it up with a tap, again with the engine idling for the same reason. After tapped I shut the engine down, and taped my fitting and screwed it in snugly. Good to go.