Bullet

You might want a 48re instead. 48re is 2003.5-2007.5. They are very similar transmissions and are pretty much interchangeable...except for maybe the electronic kick downs. But there are certain upgrades in a 48re that make it a stronger platform...like 2 more OD clutches, more clutch teeth, 2 more planetary sun gears, 2 more seals and planetary made of steel instead of aluminum in the 47re...and a few other minor upgrades. I would imagine that upgrade parts would be similarly priced. The 48re might even be easier to find. Just a thought...

I haven't really kept up with it in a while but mid to upper 600's is what I remember being the most without 'help'. Ever since the CP pumps and the 6.7's came out not much discussion about VP horsepower anymore. It's good to see somebody out there still paying homage...congrats!

I think it's a bad design in the first place and definitely should be somewhere else...preferably in a cooler, dryer and less vibrative (new word) environment. However, being as bad as DC current is at losing resistance on longer runs I would be afraid lengthen any wires to/from it. There have been several examples of trouble free operation for hundreds of thousands of miles in its current location (me included). But there have also been many ECM failures too. Might there have been much fewer if it were originally located in a more comfortable environment? Hmm...

Right on brother...that's how I roll too! Thank you for your wisdom on the subject. I'll keep thinking about it...not sure it's necessary as long as the original seal holds. Thanks again!

That's an interesting point...haven't given any thought to that. @DieselfutureWhat have you experienced so far in regards to what @AH64IDmentioned above?

I think I'm gonna do that too...saw a video 'censor Tube' where a guy did that and documented it fairly well...drill size, tap size zert size, etc. I'm gonna do it when it comes time to repack the front bearings...since my hands will already be dirty. Got any advice on it for me?

My 02 was a direct fit for the 4th gen steering at the knuckles...same taper and diameter. I have 20" wheels so I can't comment on the 16" wheel clearance. My pitman arm was not the same diameter as the ball socket...had to ream it out to the correct diameter. However my pitman arm is not a stock part...it's a drop pitman arm for a lift. It was installed at the exact same time I installed the 4th gen steering, locking hubs/bearings, ball joints and the lift. So it's possible that it was sized incorrectly from the part manufacturer. Reaming it out was easy enough for me to not question it at the time. I have been happy with the 4th gen since install...just wish it would have came with grease zerts on the ball sockets.

I've never ridden a snowmobile before but I think you're doing it wrong...

I get the exact same wear as @JAG160k on the fronts and 2 to 1 on the rears. I believe it depends mostly on how you drive and only partly on pad quality. I've ridden with people before who treated the gas and brake pedals like on/off switches and felt so sorry for their vehicle. That's the kinda guy who trades up every 2 years before things succumb to the abuse...has never changed pads before and has the perpetual car note.

Normally a 1689 means new VP time. But there is an outside chance that it could be something else causing it. Among those things are a bad diodes on the alternator causing excessive AC noise or ripple...which can be tested. Bad or corroded connections between the ECM and the VP. Bad or corroded connections in the fuse boxes under the hood including the fuel pump relay...or a bad battery or bad ground. Regarding your WTS light...could also be a bad battery, bad ground or bad/corroded connections on the pcm or ecm or it could be just a burnt out LED in the dash. Since you got the WTS problem and the 1689 code within 2 weeks of each other I would definitely give your electrical system a really good look and/or cleaning before I dropped a grand on a new VP. Install your fuel pressure gauge as soon as you get it in and that may tell you all you need to know. Best of luck to you.

Oops.... Yes I meant WTS...not CEL. Thank you @dripley

Yep that looks normal to me. Your check engine light should come on for 3 to 8 seconds (depending on how cold ambient temp is) when you turn the key forward then go out. If your CEL is not doing exactly that then something is not right with pcm/ecm. The fact that you can't connect to read codes strongly suggests pcm/ecm problems.

We all know there's no fun in that...

I think that's pretty good! You might see a very minimal increase with the new injectors but nothing to jump up and down about. But I'd say your current gas mileage is not too bad at all. I only get 1-2 mpg better but I run actual size 33.2's and 3.55's with manual locking front hubs on a very light reg cab shortbed configuration...so yours sounds good to me.

So you want your cake and eat it too...huh? All kidding aside...getting decent mileage is gonna be tough on your setup regardless of tune. The 35" tires, 4.10 gears, lift and big turbo are all gas mileage killers. I would be very happy with 13 city/17 hwy/15 combined with your current setup. What are you getting now?

Made it easy for you...but you should still read what @IBMobilerecommended. You will need to drain the oil out of the old compressor into the measuring cup and make note of the amount. Discard old oil. Now, drain the oil out of the new compressor then add the amount, in fresh oil, that was drained from the old compressor plus 2oz for the new accumulator and 1oz for the new condenser to the new compressor.

Installing a dedicated gauge in the cab is the way to go. There is a test port on the Vp44 for testing but that won't tell you as much as an in cab gauge will.

Oil leaking past the seal from the center of the cartridge.

Could be a problem with the ECM. But before I sent it in for repair I would check/clean all connections to it.

Sounds like a bad ground issue to me. Are you getting a normally operating wait to start light?

P0216 is a timing issue with the pump often caused by overheating the electronics due to low fuel pressure from the lift pump. There are a few other causes of p0216...AC noise from a bad alternator, poor fuel lubricity, poor fuel filtration. But low fuel pressure is by far the most prevalent. The most important thing you need to know is fuel pressure going to the VP44. If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge your ability to diagnose is severely diminished. You can test the alternator for AC noise, make sure your fuel filter is clean, and make sure your fuel is of sufficient quality to eliminate those other causes. Then all you are left with is low fuel pressure...which you won't know without a gauge. If I had to guess...I would say that neither of your lift pumps were providing sufficient fuel pressure and/or not working properly/well enough. A fuel pressure gauge would confirm my guess. At the very least you should hear your lift pump run for 20 seconds after just bumping the key. But that only tells that it is running but not how well it is running.

Mine shoots up to 18 the very second that it starts...yours should too. I agree that you might have some air in it still and just need to drive it. Give it some rpms on your test drive so that you can test that the check valve is working properly too. Another thought is that some of the air might have made its way into your fuel pressure gauge line which would give you a lazy reading. Might need to get you a needle valve so that you can bleed it properly.

That's good to hear. I wouldn't worry too much about the 3/8" vs 1/2"...3/8" is plenty for any VP powered Cummins. The main thing is that you get away from the very restrictive banjo fittings. I run the 3/8" too with twins and a fuel box that will dump fuel into the motor and my fuel pressure is a solid 20 psi under full throttle...18 at idle. What kind of fuel pressure are you seeing?

This is good to hear because that's where I had already planned to get mine when it goes out...if it ever does go out. The Fuel Boss has been keeping it fat and happy. DAP did me right on my injectors and stainless 5". @dripley Did you notice any power increase in addition to the smoother and quieter running?

The best way to do that is with a ratchet or breaker bar on the balancer bolts that is long enough to hang down far enough to smack it with a mini-sledge. I didn't even have to hold the alternator nut when I did that...the weight of the rotating assembly was enough to keep it from turning between blows. You'll find that they break loose fairly easily doing that. In a sense you are shocking the balancer bolts loose rather than a constant pressure on them. I had the same problem and Richard gave me that advice. All 4 of them broke loose with no problem once I did that...worked like a charm.