Bullet

I'm not really a stacks guy myself...unless we're talking about female anatomy. But it's always nice to see a new and different way of doing things. I applaud the imagination and creativity applied here.

Awesome...there are a lot of us on here who have firsthand install experience so don't hesitate to post if you get stuck or have a question. Richard is very helpful too. Best up front advice is to blow out each hose with compressed air after it has been cut to fit. Also if you are having problems getting the hose to fully seat on the quick connect barbs soak the end of the hose in hot water for a bit and it will be much easier to push on. Yep it sounds like your DDRP is on its last leg.

I'm not sure that is a good idea with no driveshaft and a rear slip yoke cuz you will most likely be losing fluid out of the back of the t-case. Every time I pull the rear driveshaft I always get some fluid dripping. I would imagine that more would come out if it were constantly spinning. I could be wrong but I wouldn't do it. If you had a fixed flange mount on the t-case with a slip driveshaft I could see how that wouldn't be a problem running it that way.

I agree with @Haggaron removing the linkage and figuring out where you are at in the range by hand. I'm absolutely stunned and jealous at how clean all that is in the pic.

The manual t-case trucks aren't made for women so it sometimes can take a little muscle to move it...especially if it hasn't been shifted in a while. They came out with the push button t-cases for women. If you are afraid of bending something with constant pressure on the shifter then give it a few easy forward blows towards N with the palm of your hand until you get some movement and then it should move more freely. But it still will require a little muscle to move it.

My setup is straight mechanical, stock fuel filter and a strainer between the tank and the Fuel Boss.

I regretted not getting the 0-60 boost initially. I got the 0-35 which served me well for a few years with the stock turbo. Then I put the compounds in and had to purchase and install the new boost gauge. Moral of the story...go with the 0-60 boost gauge if you ever plan on upgrading the turbo to anything above stock. 0-30 fuel pressure & 0-1600 egt are just right. My piller mount actually attaches to/covers my stock pillar so I did have to put holes in stock piller for attachment and wiring purposes. I would prefer one that just replaces the stock piece if I did it all over again. P.S. You will love the Fuel Boss.

You can shift the manual transfer case into either selection with the engine off and it will immediately go into whatever you selected. The vacuum and/or electrics that you mentioned are for the electric shifting transfer case. None of that stuff on a manual shifting t-case. Every time I remove my front driveshaft I do it with the engine off and have someone sit in the cab and shift the t-case from N to 2H over and over so I can spin the t-case yoke to access and break all the bolts loose.

Straight mechanical is also the only way I would recommend running it. I considered leaving my electric pump in for 'reliability' reasons but considering the complexity of the 2 separate pumps and the Hobbs switch and the extra hoses and electrical connections...the most reliable route to me became straight mechanical. Priming is only slightly more labor intensive but not difficult by any means.

You might could cut some of the loss and sell your FASS stuff and just run straight Fuel Boss...that's how I have mine ran. Running an electric pump in correlation with the Fuel Boss is $50 more expensive since you need the Hobbs switch. I didn't need the Hobbs since I'm straight mechanical and Richard cut my price by $50 because of that...fyi.

Yes it can. That's not the most cost-effective route but it can just as easily be done. Yes the Hobbs switch would cut power to the FASS as soon as it senses pressure from the Fuel Boss...which would be 1-2 seconds after cranking approximately.

I don't have a drive pressure gauge or separate boost gauges...wish I did. So I don't know how much of it is from the primary vs overall. Your injectors are way bigger than mine so you're gonna be hotter. I imagine when I get some injectors similar size as yours we'll be more similar egts.

I have never seen above 1200 with 7x.010's, a TST Comp and just short of 60 psi. Weight is 6k lbs...a little lighter than your average 2500 4x4. I'm looking at upgrading to 7x.012's or 7x.013's since I have some upside egt's.

I'm the same setup as @Gregturley but have 7x.010's and compound turbos with a TST Comp dumping fuel in and no fuel starvation issues or blips in fuel pressure. Fuel pressure actually increases about 2 lbs as more fuel gets dumped in.

You can prime it with an electric drill very easily. Mine is also 18 psi at idle but will increase to 20 during a full throttle pull. Never less than 18 though.

It doesn't hang down as far as your fan shroud does so something would be lucky (or unlucky) to make its way up there. But the belt has a replacement interval of either 50k or 75k...can't remember which one. I carry an extra belt with me just in case but never had a problem. The pump is bulletproof and the pulleys are a kind of synthetic plastic of some sort. If it worries you there's plenty of room to fabricate a shield to keep things from going up there. But mine is naked and never had an issue.

Another Fuel Boss user here...also with no electric pump to be found on the truck. I don't know if it made any difference but when I installed it I blew out each section of hose with compressed air and haven't had any problems with debris clogging the return valve. I would also advise a strainer like mentioned above and concur that Richard at GDP is great to work with. Very happy with the Fuel Boss.

VCO's for fuel mileage and cleanliness. SAC's if you don't care about either. The advantages and disadvantages increase as the injectors get bigger. I currently run 7x.010 VCO's but will be switching to 7x.012 SAC's in the future since the truck is just a toy now and I don't give much thought to fuel economy or smoke levels.

Of all the vehicles I've owned/currently own, this 02 Cummins has been bullet proof in comparison. I still don't know how to change out a VP44 cuz I haven't had to. Even the Dodge part of it hasn't been too bad considering my mileage. If you really want to hit the jackpot continuously...buy a BMW X5 or any newer Mercedes and then you will experience more jackpots than you will ever know to be possible. You will feel like you have won the lottery at least once a week.

I second this...I saw the original post and was going to reply something similar to what you did but I figured why bother. I was trying to figure out how the OP could be any more vague and absent of any detail and I couldn't. He nailed it!

Poor dripley...the butt of a joke once again. But it was a good one though. On my 02 I dump the full 3 gallons in every time and it reads perfect on the 'dripstick'. I don't know if having the extra turbo makes a difference or not.

I don't know what interval is recommended for an aftermarket but I change my gasket every other oil change. The oem plug doesn't have a replaceable gasket if I remember correctly...it's built in to the plug.

I'm curious to know why too...the only legitimate reason I can think of would be financial. They do everything better than a single...love the compound setup. That's the way they should've came from the factory before variable vane turbos were invented.

They definitely are interchangeable...I've heard of a few 5.9 cranks being used in 6.7 blocks with special length rods that keeps the same compression ratio as the 5.9 with a bigger displacement (6.2-6.4). The 6.7 block is engineered a little differently than the 5.9 to be stronger. But I have not heard of any the way you mentioned. 21:1 down to 17.5:1 seems like a lot to overcome. I think the 6.7's 18.1:1 compression ratio is also too high. They have certainly been more prone to head gasket failures than the 5.9s at 17.3-17.5:1.

Yep...that's the one I had. Your assumptions are right on the money...it did drain a little slow. It did however give me enough time to drink another beer while it was draining.