War Eagle

I use the Edge backup camera that runs thru the Edge CTS Monitor that I use for gauges. The rear camera mount is imbedded in a License plate frame and is completely adjustable up and down. It even shows grid reference lines on the monitor when the camera is on. I can use it for lining up the ball to match the trailer hitch. I have had good luck with this camera and have been running it now for over two years now. It appears you have gauges so this might not be the best option for you because it would be spendy if you have to buy the monitor in addition to the backup camera.

Exactly what was explained to me when I was investigating my install. I have the v band elbow on my hybrid and that was the same on my stock HX35. I also got a larger 14cm2 turbine housing as I wanted to lower my drive pressure. That is the reason why I had a little lag (on the low end). But then when I installed the RV275 injectors they lite the turbo down low and no more low end lag, If you stayed with the 12cm2 housing you might not see that initial lag(as I did) but your drive pressures will be higher.

I don't know anything about the Jacobs brake but if you have an HX35 and the Jacob brake fits in place of the stock elbow, then I am pretty sure it will still fit the hybrid also (with no special mods). When I got my hybrid, it was a specific requirement that it had to fit my existing manifold and elbow and down pipe with zero modifications required. And it did. Now I have a PacBrake on my gen 3 and it fits right into the area that the original elbow (that connects the turbo to the downpipe) . No mods required to anything. Just replace the elbow with the brake and everything mates up perfectly. If the Jacob brake works the same way then I think you would be golden.

I installed the HX35/40 hybrid on my gen 2 truck. It has the 14cm2 exhaust. My truck originally had the HX35 with the 12cm2 exhaust, but the oil seal started leaking pretty good so I went with an upgrade rather than just rebuild the stock unit. I run the 65hp quadzilla ZXT chip and 4" exhaust (turbo back). The turbo was a little laggy off the line but had a better pull than the stock turbo when passing. I then installed the RV275 injectors and there is no lag now and there is no smoke whether I mash the pedal from a stop or when passing. This setup made my truck a real screamer. I have positract in the rear and if if I mash the pedal from a stop (non-boosted launch) I can easliy break the rear tires loose with my auto transmission. Couldn't come close to doing that before the mods (unless I was starting on some gravel). I have been running it for several years now and have over 50k miles since the install and everything is working really good. Everyone that drives the truck comments on it being a hot rod.

I run SW9 for the timing advance that it gives and if you stomp on it you can generate lots of smoke because of the heavy fueling, but as I mentioned I don't drive with a heavy foot and there is virtually no smoke if you aren't pushing it. Passing at hiway speeds for me is not mashing it to the floor but a more gradual use of the pedal to get past the vehicle I'm trying to pass. Use of the pedal in this way is somewhat smoky but not a blackout by any means. When I am running in torque management 3 I generate more smoke than when in torque management 1. If you mash it from a dead stop then you are going to exhale a lot of smoke.

I have been doing a lot of freeway driving with POD for the last 6 months. I have monitored performance (i.e. acceleration, shift response and mpgs). I ran two tanks of fuel at SW9, timing 2 and POD settings of 45; 50; 55; 60; 65; 70; 75 and 80% using torque management 3. Now I am not a lead foot driver so I found driveability was really quite good in that I had no trouble with delayed shifts or lack of power to accelerate or pass and found my best mpgs on POD at 70%. It was just below 23mpg hand calculated. I got nearly that same level of mileage (22.5+) on POD setting of 65 and 75 also. An interesting note is all this driving has been done with my 19.5s on. (heavier rolling mass than stock 17 inch tires but I think lower rolling resistance). So this is not a scientific test in anyway but has been very interesting and my truck seems to like running with SW9, TM2, TQ3 but gets a little smokey when you pass somebody. So continuing my exploration, I have switched torque management to level 1 (all other parameters the same) and have found that driving with POD at the lower levels really seems to magnify the shift characteristics and the acceleration and passing performance in a more noticeable and negative way (less responsive). I have not done similar freeway driving so I can't really say much about mpgs yet. Smoke on passing is less than on TQ setting of 3.

One of my flying buddies ordered a new 2015 1/2 ton Dodge diesel. He got it for his daily driver to replace a GMC Denali with the big engine. He's hoping to go from about 14-16mpgs on the road to 28+. He ordered it the first of November and just got notified that he can pick it up at the local dealer this Friday. He ordered it with every interior option he had available (wanted to deck it out like the Denali and make it plush). I am pretty sure it will look nice but I am more interested to see how it performs: ride softness, steering control, passing power, mpg performance, road noise etc.

Just fueled up my truck Saturday here in Nampa. Paid $3.62 at the new Fred Meyer station (no rewards). Lowest I've seen down here for a long while. The next lowest is at Phillips at $3.69. Gas is $2.72 at Costco and $2.99 most other stations. That's as high a spread (between diesel and regular gas) as I have seen in a while also. Usually it has been in the range of 15% premium over regular gas. It's more like 20% premium currently.

I have that very same model and just updated yesterday with the same results you reported. I went into the tab that shows map versions on my computer (don't ask me why, but I was just trying anything). There I saw probably 8 or more versions of the US maps. Each of these versions were 1600+ to 1800+ MB in size. So I tried to open the "more detail" link on each file to see if I could find dates on the files. No luck but they had version numbers so I picked 4 or 5 of what looked like the oldest versions and just deleted them. Then I went back and did the update routine on the GPS and worked. When it finished and I went back to the first page of the TOM TOM Home there was a not at the top that said my maps hadn't been updated for something like 20 weeks. I asked it to update the GPS and it had a small file that was listed and I checked it and the update went through and finished out properly and indicated the maps were now up todate. It seems to be working ok, after the update with one slight exception that I have found. I no longer have any of my favorites saved. So evidently one of the older map files I deleted off my computer had "my favorites" in it and I must have blown it away. That wasn't a serious problem because they were just addresses of my family members. I can re-create them in a few minutes. Don't know why this works but it did for me.

I was using my gen 2 truck last week when we had the heavy snow here in Idaho and I could not get it to go into 4l or 4h. I stopped the engine, shifted the transmission into N and tried with the trans in D and nothing I could do would allow the transfer case to go into 4l or 4h. Found a vacuum leak and once I repaired that it worked just fine. I was very surprised that was my issue but was also very glad it was nothing more serious.

So I had a similar experience when I first started using the smarty S06 POD. It seemed really noticeable since I was moving from a gen 2 with a chip and injectors that could spin the wheels from a non boosted launch. Doing a little research I found the smarty used to have more grunt down low but with the recent SW updates they claim more even power increase across the entire rpm band. My understanding is the net result of that change is that it doesn't feel like the power is coming on as quick or as strong at the lower rpm bands. But it continues to grow as the rpm increases. I know my gen 2 truck is a terror off the line compared to my gen 3 truck but the gen 3 truck will walk away as the rpms move up the scale. So if you drive your truck with an egg under your foot I think it is much harder to notice any power increases down in the lower rpm ranges with this recent change in SW strategy. I haven't used torque 4 yet so I can't say how that behaves and maybe it is really crazy strong in the low end but smoother power and better mpgs is my interest so I am getting along fine with SW9 on POD.

I don't tow a 5er but I carry a 12 foot tall slide in camper that puts nearly 8k on the rear axle and I pull a boat on a double axle trailer for a total gvw of 16.5k. I have run SW5, SW7 and SW9 with this setup but I have gauges and I watch things very closely. I have been all over the NW with it's mountains and have been able to keep egts in check. I have had to shift down or slow down at times but have done fine. With my various trips and trying various settings I have found the timing I get in SW9 gives my truck the best mileage so I have started running SW9 on timing 2, torque 3 and rail pressure 2 but using POD so I can cut back on the fueling etc. but keep the advanced timing and have found my best mpg thus far at POD @ 70 in that SW9 setting. Watching my gauges I didn't have to make any adjustments on my throttle or speed at that setting either. Now I know every truck is going to like or dislike various settings but I am not running into any trouble by driving sensibly for the conditions. I am guessing you are driving sensibly if you have been using SW7 on a bone A$$ truck or you could run into auto tranny or manual clutch problems if you weren't. I would think you could run SW7 with POD at 50%-70% and do fine because you are driving sensibly.

Suppose you got the house littered with black balloons and intimate comments like " watch your footing now you're on the slippery side of the slope" or "watch your step cause you got one foot on the banana peel and the other out the door" etc. Just part of the ritual! When you can dish it out as well as receive it with a laugh then life is ok! I just tell my family that I stopped having the birthdays so that way I don't have to get older. They keep asking me "how's that working for you?" I'm still looking for a good answer on that one.

X2

Ya, That's what I run and I like it really well!

Those are pretty cool but for my thinking that's flat out abuse of cool toys.

That's a visual that we can probably do without!

If you have any time on your hands after you finish your winterizing come on over and I'll put you to work on my projects!

This is a timely question. I just had a piece of the dash fall completely out and went down inside somewhere on my gen 2 truck. I had a dash carpet over the cracked dash but that only covers the problem and doesn't fix anything. I am thinking the piece that fell out (into the inner workings of the dash) has likely lodged into something that has caused my heater vent door from working properly now. I started looking for some overlay dash that can be glued in place. I've seen the Geno's offering and the LMC one also. I have no experience in this kind of replacement or the product offerings of these two company's. Certainly want some thing that will work good. I'm am interested in finding a solution also and am looking at the overlay dash fix.

Well you are going to have to do a little research because there are some dynamics to the supply and distribution game. Somebody that had the BMS units last month may not have them today when you are looking for them. But DAP (in Utah) usually carries them (they are also a sponser of this forum). I got mine from USA Freedom Diesel (in Montana). I have even seen them listed on Ebay at times. So if you do some internet searches for BMS injectors that should get you started with a list of possible sources. Be sure to ask lots of questions before you pull the trigger so you get exactly what you need for your truck. I'll bet there are local suppliers in Az that have access to them and can help you out. But you won't go wrong with DAP or USA Freedom Diesel.

Yup. At the time I was looking for injectors I found many places that said new Bosch injectors (CR injectors) were almost impossible to find (supply problem I assumed) but that the marine version was more readily available. Theses companies would sell you new reman'd Bosch injectors (non marine) but not new as in never previously used injectors. My understanding is if Bosch actually reman's the injector they are marketed as 'new'. But if a non Bosch facility reman's them then they are sold as reman's. So indeed you need to watch what your getting. The injectors I bought were billed as new and not reman'd Bosch and I was told that the new as in never used injector part numbers started with the numbers 0 445 ............ Any other Bosch part number for injectors started with a different numbering scheme if they were not new as in never previuosly used. I believe you can verify this by asking reputable suppliers to verify the numbering scheme. If you buy the marine version you need to be aware of the spray angle and if it will match the needs of your truck. If it does't then there is the option of installing a replacement nozzle that matches your truck's requirements. You need to make sure that any replacement nozzle will fit the marine bodies, as I have been told there has been a design change ( to the marine injectors) sometimes in the recent past that has eliminated some of the various nozzles being able to fit the marine injectors. I just made sure I had a workable combination. Of course there are many stories of people using injectors with differing spray angles than what the truck originally came with but I can not attest to the goodness or badness of doing so. I am telling you this so that you are aware of the potential that you might be looking at purchasing slightly used bosch injectors that might have been billed new from the seller but were actually reman'd and called new. I have found in my research that actual new injectors seem to come with at least a one year warranty and all the remaned or rebuilt injectors seemed to have something like 90 days warranty. These injectors that I bought actually cleared up all the smoke I was making in stock tune (from the original injectors). On occasion I was seeing slightly over 20 mpg with my originals but they were smoking on the slightest acceleration. With my new injectors I am regularly seeing over 21 mpg (hand calculated) and have seen 22+ on several occasions. So far I am all smiles. I am coming up on 20k miles with the new injectors.

Well for me there are three things that got my attention and peaked my interest in purchasing them when it was time my truck needed replacements: one is that there are new Bosch (not reman'd or rebuilt) second they were less money than new Bosch original replacements from the dealer (and less money than any of the other new injectors I looked at like 'Dragon Fly' etc.) and they would give me a bump in hp.

I'll give you my opinion from time to time.

I have never used BBi injectors but everyone that I have heard about that has used them seems to like them. I used BMS (Bosch Motor Sports) injectors my self. These are all new injectors and are a marine injector. I believe they are 375 hp so that would represent ~a 50hp increase over your stock units. The spray angle may or may not be an issue for your vehicle so be aware of what you need to match your truck's requirement. I have 50 hp DDP nozzles on mine to match the spray angle requirement of my 05CR. Like I said these are new (not reman'd) and run about a grand less than the BBi.

That's what I'm thinking too! Tires on that trailer look like they are also way overloaded.