CSM

Any other addrd capabilities over a standard obd2 reader?

FINNEGAN HAS A CHANNEL NOW. Awesome.

I'll take a picture tomorrow, but I just cut the straight pipe at about a 30* angle off of vertical. The plane of the cut aims down 30* and very slightly to the rear.

Rust? Take a gander at this... If you don't kill the rust, it will just get worse. Welding may be best, but it is by no means necessary if done right. I'd look at some of the underbody sealer and rust neutralizer/converter stuff Eastwood Co has as well. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/paint-body/1506-theres-more-than-one-way-to-fix-a-floor/

After finishing up my rear end and steering rebuild this last week, I took a grinder and sawzall to my exhaust. I found it very interesting that it changed the tone quite a bit. I've done this in the past on gas vehicles that had an annoying high pitch or too sharp of an exhaust note. It seems to work. Anybody else do this? 3rd gen factory exhaust has a near 45 degree cut, and I don't recall what the OEM 2nd gen exhaust looked like. I didn't do a before and after, but I think that the truck is overall quieter, but has a better low frequency rumble than it did before.

i bet you're looking forward to getting the truck back together again. When mine was out of service for a month, I missed it a LOT more than I thought i would. I am kinda fond of that hunk of junk. Crazy thing about it is that my dad ended up renting me his "farm" 3rd gen... It was comfy, the 4 doors were awesome, it was a little quieter, and I hated it. I could make a list of the whys, but honestly, I am now off the "should'a bought a 3rd gen" train. Not saying at all it was a bad truck, but it wasn't my truck that I know and love. It would probably take me at least 6 months to get comfortable with something other than a 2nd gen after driving them for the past 13 years.

If you fill the center, debris can plug oil passages, get in bearings, and plug cooling jets. If foil gets in the crankcase, it will likely get stuck on the pickup screen or in the filter. Or get pulverized by the timing gears. I dont fill mine, because I dont think its necessary, its usually messy, and there is a slight additional risk.

Buy on closeout... hoard... ebay... profit?

Interesting. It needs some work. After wich the rider will likely retire to spend more time with his remaining limbs. This one was better. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hiller_VZ-1_Pawnee

Ive got a couple old bottles on the shelf. I think 1.5 or so of the old stuff.

No. Their engines are designed for that oil, ours isnt.

72. We rescued it from a junk yard about 20 years ago for 200 bucks. It needs a lot. Thr fenders and hood are very very rough. Trunk is sprung. Parts are missing. I put a 318 and 904 in it and got it driving but my dad pulled it. For some reason he likes to take cars apart but not put them back together. Ive put two on the road (varrying degrees of jalopy) and he has disassembled them to hang panels and repaint. Some day once i save the money i will do some stuff with old cars again. Im hoping 4-5 years or so. Yeah. It needs it. Id give them a try. Ryan at blue top ia easy to work with. Its a one piece, so off one of the ends. Blue top is 179 for a rebuild with return shipping.

Update. Shop buddy. Found a complete 80 with mag hytec front d60 cover and rear cover for 1200, no core charge. I kept my brakes and the internals of the axle looked really clean. I will be changing the axle bearings and seals eventually, but for now it works. I ordered new u bolts in 9/16ths over the stock 1/2 inch, as nobody I found would make or stocked 15x3 1/2 u bolts. I also had to get my driveshaft shortened by about 1.75 or so. There is a good shop in Denver I used, bills performance driveshaft. And no, that isn't my shop, it broke at the family farm several hours away... but, John deere makes a nice hoist. Haha. I also sent my steering box to blue top. Quick shipping and low cost. I cross threaded two bolts on the install... I'm not sure if it was like that when I pulled it or if I damaged it on the install. I do wish I had chased and lubed the threads prior to install. The truck steers vastly better now.

Sofar. I had issues getting the bolts in, I kinda wish I had chased the threads before install.

I would have to dig through the manual and part lookup tool in the articles and downloads, but I wonder if there is a normal perportioning valve as well as the secondary valve? You brake issues still aren't fixed even with removing the valve?

I wonder if the 99 perportioning thing is only half of the perportioning valve system. If so, you may be good to go with removal.

I've never heard of the self adjusting valve before. I would want some sort of valve there, unless you want to lock up your rear brakes. Locked up rear brakes tend to make vehicles swap ends. Personally, I think there is some corrosion in the system that is causing the problem. Could be the perportioning valve you pulled, could be in themaster cylinder. In short, it doesn't seem like a simple fix.

I just had one done by Blue top steering gears in nd. 179 shipped from him.

Movement in track bar?

Oh well, if you aren't comfortable with it, don't do it. I wouldn't do it right now due to time if it were me. Same reason I'm not replacing all the bearings at the moment in my junkyard dana 80. I could do it, but I don't have the time to change the carrier and pinion bearings.

Shouldn't go to zero, if it doesn't normally go to zero when the key is on run with the engine off. Something else is up... I don't know much about 1st gens though, likely something shorted. I'd look through your wiring for an exposed, broke, or loose connection although I bet it works fine when it dries out.

Congrats!

Ha. I'm nobody.

Thanks! Unfortunately they aren't allowed where I live at the moment. (Military base)

I want geese now.