CSM

I've been fuel heater delete on my 2000 and my 02. Colorado and Wyoming, to include mountain overnights. I've gotten unplugged starts into the -20s with no fuel additive on a regular basis... Cranky, but thats normal. With a block heater the trucks started fine. IMO, the fuel heater is only going to keep fuel warm. A heater won't ungel fuel and subsequently won't help for initial starts. It would be nice to have, but I don't think it is really going to save anybody. I would rather have the extra filter than anything else.

Frankly, I don't care what it is. It's a old school cummins, not a rare race engine. I just keep it full and run it.

Just buy the center console plastic cup holder from Genos or amazon. It is amazing and worth it.

I bet you a dollar it acts like the video I linked.

From our very own... Mine does the exact same. https://youtu.be/bUYO-lJe36w

Using the high idle kit, I can switch the coolant temp and watch the oil pressure go up and down with that temp... Kinda makes me lose all faith in the gauge.

Pepsi, I think there is also some gains in replacing the + lead from the alternator to the battery with something thicker. You may not see this at idle in your driveway, but on a cold winter day after a bad start and long idle with the lights and heater grid going, a resistance there could easily make some noise within the system. The stock lead is not "diesel" sized, IMO, but I haven't done any math to prove it.

Very interesting info! Do you have a lathe?

I remember reading something about the majority of heat in the valve should go through the seat, not the stem. Looks good! Should be interesting to see what happens. I assume you are doing a gasket match on the exhaust to manifold as well. Are you doing anything to the chambers? Cleaning up anything or modifying anything? On another note, from here, it looks like the ports are too highly polished. At least on my gasser experience, you are looking for a somewhat coarse feel to the ports... Kind of a medium grit cartridge wheel finish.

What angles or techniques are you using for the valve job?

If you have to put that much capacitance, you have voltage issues. Ground, charging sys, somewhere. After I redid my grounds and alternator I have had zero shifting or lockup issues.

Mike, tst comp is also rated at 180 hp as well, but tst is fuel only.

Looks like it's the last one in this production run.

The only mainstream programmer I haven't tried.

Can you tap directly into the sensor, perhaps with a transducer?

Jump any cars? You need to check your ac volts. If you killed a fuse, I'm concerned about your alternator rectifier.

I never slipped my south Bend con ofe with any chip. Stock turbo and rv275s. Plus, I was young, single and employed and drove that way!

Ok. Not charging. Good batteries. fuses? This thread has some good info in it and follows my train of thought. With wiring diagram. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/topic/8791-pcm-issues/

Ok, first off, low voltage will cause a lot of problems in the truck that go away with full voltage. I would check out your battery connections and batteries with a meter. Cables should be tight and clean. Be very careful driving with an out of whack TV cable. Your line pressure is modulated via the cable and that is what keeps the pressure on the bands. Low pressure = potential for slip. Very very soft driving is the preferred technique. If absolutely necessary to drive, I would put the cable about mid way to 2/3rds of the way to wide open throttle or put it where it is supposed to be and tape the heck out of the cable. You may be able to tape the cable on the trans side of where that clip goes depending on how clean it is. Having too much pressure at low speeds can be problematic as well, and will move your shift points up if it shifts at all. Pulling cables won't reset codes. You will need a code reader for that. If you can't find a bad ground or bad connection somewhere on something you touched when you pulled the trans, I suspect something is up with the batteries.

Shut up, Tyler.

You have to get a bracket and a 3rd gen bar. I bought this one. http://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/2nd-to-3rd-gen-dodge-2500-3500-trackbar-retrofit-kit.html

I just pulled my tank last weekend. There are a few things... One, is that the canister has two check valves and a screen. That screen could be plugged up. Mine was plugged with dirt. You can carefully disassemble the bottom of the canister that has the screen by carefully depressing the nylon prongs that hold the base on. The whole canister can come apart, but it really isn't worth it. Then you can clean the screen out or just ignore it since the draw straw is going in. I removed the screen and the bottom check valve so I don't trap fuel in the canister. The easiest way to drop the tank, IMO is to use a ratchet strap around each end of the tank. Tie one end to the frame, and one end to the bed frame. I found it easier to do if I dropped the driveshaft as well. Then just lower the tank down after removing the two bolts holding the two straps on. The frame side of the straps just fit into slots and get worked out.

For the rest of us, what is that thing?

Mike has started using a wireless or bluetooth OBDII scan tool that looks neat. I can't find the exact model on amazon right now... I really like the looks of what Mike has though. I have a smarty, so I use that.

My main concern is having soot & carbon build up on the valves and chamber, and for condensation to build up in the oil. I have some bad valve seals/guides that leak some excess oil onto my exhaust valves. This can coke on the top of the valves, and I the truck always runs better after a longer run at highway speed or up a long hill when it burns it all off. In rare occasions, water could condense inside the block when the engine cools down, so it is nice to steam it out once in a while. A friend of mine commuted 3 miles in his 5.9 Magnum Dakota without getting up to temps for a whole winter. He ended up losing all his oil pressure and pulled the pan to find the oil pickup covered in a giant block of ice. This is way less of an issue in the diesels though, since we don't have a vacuum based PCV system. The dakota had a very agressive pcv/breather system that we don't have, fortunately. We just vent straight to the atmosphere and don't pull in outside air.