hdpwipmonkey

Well, I redid the connectors for the W-T mod and I pulled the battery tray on the drivers side. I only saw one ground in that area, it was a single stud with a bunch of wires in one ring connector. It didn't look bad. Did you all bolt that vacuum solenoid thing back up to the battery tray? That thing was a pain in the @ss to get to. I pulled all the connectors from the PCM and blew them all out and put some dielectric grease on them and reinstalled. I will give it a few days and see if it comes back. Fingers crossed!

Thanks, I will add these items to my list of things to check tomorrow.

Yes, ATF+4

If I coast and the transmission unlocks on its own its nice and smooth. When accelerating and it locks on its own its OK too. Its only when I'm over 45mph and hit the brake and let off it unlocks and locks back up again harshly. If I hit the brake and hold it down till less then 42ish mph it unlocks harshly but never tries to re-lock. Like I said... weird When my wife goes to work tomorrow and the garage is free, I will pull it in and re-do the connectors for the W-T mod and then pull the PCM plugs and clean them and give them some dielectric grease. Oh and kick the tire...

holy sheet!

I did the W-T mod but I used crimp connectors I am going to remove those and do a good solder on them instead. I did see my AC noise is up to 0.05 now and it used to be around 0.001, again could be from a bad connection on the grounds from the W-T mod. I think I am going to pull the plugs on the PCM and make sure there is no water or anything in them too, we had a decent snowfall here around the time this started and I'm wondering if the snow melted and somehow ran down into the PCM I will keep you all up to date with my findings. I will make sure I kick the tire a few times too

One of my favorite bands. I was at this show in PDX.

Well, I guess I was too quick to say it was fixed. It started doing the hard unlock and relock when I hit the brakes again on the way home from work today. It's weird that it was fine for a couple of days after replacing the batteries. The search continues...

Problem solved! Believe it or not, 2 new batteries fixed it. I stopped at the Interstate store on my way home from work and had them load test the batteries. The passenger side was not able hold a load. The drivers side didnt fail but based on others comments on the forum I replaced them both. I had not figured that just replacing the batteries would have an effect but low and behold after installing the batteries I took it for a test drive yesterday and no more TC issues I have not checked the AC noise after replacing the batteries, wonder if that issue is fixed too...

I'll check that ground when I pull the batteries to have them tested.

My AC noise at the alternator is .05 My cables are all new. Just replaced them this past summer W-T Ground Mod is done already. Been done since about the time I replaced the alternator. I havent had the batteries checked. They've been in the truck since I bought it. I will pull those and have them tested. I still think I need to replace the alternator with it putting out .05 VAC...

Over the last couple of weeks I noticed my TC was acting weird. When its engaged over 45mph and I hit the brakes the TC disengages like its supposed to but then immediately reengages as soon as I let off the brake and its a noticeable reengagement. It has never done that before. It would always stay off unless I got back on the gas pedal. I scanned for codes and it had 2 codes. One for APPS low voltage and one for charging system low. So I bought a new Timbo APPS and installed it today. The TC is still acting the same. I checked the alternator and it is charging normally. I did notice that the AC voltage is up though. When I first did the WT mod the AC noise was at almost nothing but now its at .05 VAC. I may have to replace the alternator again. This ones only about 2 years old. Anything else you can think of that would cause the TC to act like this? I also have another question. If I go with a Nations alternator (I want a better quality alternator) will I have to get a different breaker. I currently have a 150 Amp breaker installed but the Nations Alternator is 180 Amp. I'm guessing the 150 amp breaker will be good as the truck shouldn't draw over the 136 Amps that the OEM alternator is rated for unless something is wrong or I add something that would draw more power.

I have had problems with XDP in the past, not as bad as yours, but enough to turn me off from doing business with them again.

Those really fill out the wheel wells nicely

Those look pretty good on there. How much do they rub?

need a picture in the daylight man!

Does the WTS light come on now?

I use Harbor Freight moving blankets. You can usually get them on sale for a few bucks.

be on the lookout in the Michigan Craigslist for a Ram TRX with slight body damage...

If I would of said it with a smile, she would of known I was lying... Better to play it cool.

Happy New Year! Speaking of tires spinning, after my son and I fixed the heater core in my truck today we went for a ride down the road. Once we got out of the housing complex I stopped and put the Quad on "kill" and pushed the skinny pedal to the floor. After laying a nice patch and some smoke I let off and we continued on our test drive. When we got back home my wife was outside taking down some of the Christmas decorations. She asked me "did you hear someone spinning their tires a little while ago?" Nope, we didn't hear anything.

Heater core is done. About 2 hours for me and my son to get it installed. It'll be nice to have defrosters again. A couple of days ago on my way to work I turned on the defrosters and the windshield got worse than what it was without the defrosters, then yesterday on my way home from work I noticed the antifreeze dripping from my floor vent. I knew then there was no mistake, I had a bad heatercore. When I pulled the old one out it looked like it might of had a pin hole at the top (lots of white build-up) and some green build up around the bottom but it didn't look too bad compared to some of the ones I seen on YT that others pulled out.

I do have a garage to work in but my truck is longer than the garage so I cant close the door. This limits the length of jobs that I can do in there (I know this is probably going to send @Mopar1973Man over the edge) so that's why I am going to do the shortcut method of replacing just the heater core...

maybe I should skip the heater core and just go to Vegas

Betcha cant guess what I get to do this weekend...