gerlbaum

The price went up a bit - they’re now asking $1k and only have one kit left. Oh, and that’s down from the $1,299 they were asking.

The update on mine: I’ve sent the ECM in for a rebuild. I’ve hunted down everything I can and it did it again yesterday. It started, ran for ~10s then shut off. When it does that it sucks all the fuel out of my filter (lift pump isn’t running) and restarting it is like restarting after you change your fuel filter. I changed the PDC fuse and the ones in the truck. It will be perfect for 20 starts then crap out on me like above. This all started after my fan blade let loose on the highway, took out my radiator hose, and I hit 240 before I could safely get over and shut down. I live in Phoenix so I am wondering if the 240 engine heat and the 110 ambient heat finally took a toll on the ECM after 275k miles. I am also dumping the TST and the TS mvp and I bought a Quad from DAP today. Obviously, I told my wife the Quad was required to flash the ECM or it wouldn’t work.

Don’t use oven cleaner if you have an aluminum radiator. I believe it eats aluminum.

So on my truck, I replaced the under hood 20 amp # 3 fuse. I also checked the in dash #9 and #11 fuse. The #9 will kill the truck if it’s running and no wait to start light will come on if it’s out.

Well I think mine is a result of the dash fuse #9 being loose. The PO had a fuse tap in it, but the metal kind you stick in with the fuse. I think it loosened it up. I’ve tightened it down, and put a new fuse in and so far so good. Now, I thought I nailed it with fuse 11 but it didn’t help but it’s right next to fuse 9 so I think it was a false positive. So, we’ll see.

I would feel pretty confident with a hard facing electrode. They make them for cast iron but my guess is that is cast steel. They use that hard facing rod on machine buckets so it’s pretty darn tough. Just follow the instructions. The stuff I used did not require pre heat or slow cooling. It also said weld perpendicular to the crack. I used stuff from Crow Alloys. They even make mid wire for this application. I learned about Crown from the pro welders on Weldingweb. Give them a call and they’ll point you in the right direction if you decide on welding it. http://www.crownalloys.com these boys can weld

Thank you. I took your advice and went through the fuses. I replaced the 20amp #3 under the hood. Does the switched green/black white come from the ignition switch (#11 fuse in the dash?). I’ll look at the wiring schematic tonight as well - once my kids are in bed. Also, can anyone confirm where the switched ground wire is located? My searches reveal it’s in the kick panel but I wanted to be sure. Thank you One other point. I am also going to solder the TST wiring connections in case they could cause a no start condition. I noticed my TST power and boost lights flash instead of remaining solid. So, I am starting to lean toward a bad connection over a bad ECM.

Hi everyone I hope someone can provide some advice. I have a 1998.5 3500 with a nv4500. It has an aftermarket lift pump, TST Comp, and ts mvp. The current issue has never happened before and I’ve owned the truck since 2017. Over the weekend my radiator sprang a leak. I noticed it when the check engine light came on and temp read ~240. I pulled over and shut it off. While replacing the rad I had two wires where the insulation wore off short. It was the “Cummins bus power” wires (see wiring diagram). I fixed them and the radiator and went to start the truck and no wait to start light and the truck won’t start. I messed around Saturday looking for bad wires, and checking fuses. I go to try and start the truck and low and behold wait to start comes on and it runs fine. This morning I had no issues and drove 50 miles. This evening I went to start the truck again and no wait to start and truck is dead. Went back inside and came out and tried again and wait to start came one and it ran fine for 10 seconds then died. I can’t pull codes because it’s like the ECM has no power. I am wonder if the ECM fried when the those two wires shorted. Or, could have the hot truck killed the ECM? It appears there is a short somewhere but I can figure out how to test for it or what to narrow down - bad ECM, wiring short, etc…I am hoping someone can help me diagnose where the short could be. I have a multimeter , I can read wiring diagrams and I have the service manual. I don’t know the truck well enough to understand where to begin testing. Is there a ground for the ECM? Is it possible one of the other sensors fried and could cause this condition? Thank you in advance for any help.

Completely worth it. I've bought the aluminum "you bend it" bulk brake lines and it's just not worth the trouble unless you have a custom application.

All I can say: I've done new yoke, new bushings (multiple), new u joints, and new carrier bushings. I've not been able to get my t case to never stop dripping out the rear. I have the tool to pull the bushing without removing the tail housing so it only takes a few minutes to replace the bushing. I'd be happy to try anything. I have a new bushing and seal sitting on my shelf but I'm just not ready to try (and most likely) fail yet again lol.

I've been told but never actually confirmed this: Can you run a small difference in gearing between a front and real axle? For example, can you run a 3.54 rear end and 3.55 gears up front (or vise versa)?

I think the more relevant take away isn't an argument about battery size, but battery cost. Cheap batteries seem to work fine.

Are swap bars made of a type of "spring" steel?

Yes! Or at least selectable front. I had a mechanical front and rear on a off-road only Jeep. If you were in 4wd and the front locked you were going straight whether you wanted to or not. W/o lockers, 2wd is really 1wd and 4wd is really 2wd.

I'll add I bought group 31s from a auto parts store and they $119 ea. I'm on year 4 with them. It was over 110 degrees for 57 days this summer in phoenix. Hottest summer in history and it beat the old record by 20+ days. My batteries are fine. Normally, you see lots of dead batteries in the summer. I can't tell you how many Tesla's I saw dead on the side of the road this summer or in limp mode going 20mph because the heat destroyed the range of those vehicles (lots of AC and they do have a cooling system to keep the batteries happy).

I use Goop but I live in AZ and the super glued just won't set up on glass when it's 120 outside. I let the Goop set up for 24 hrs before attaching the mirror.

In all honesty, I am not sure. I heard of a company called MS Tech the Ford IDI guys used all the time but I can't find them anymore. They may have gone out of business but a search for "MS Tech" brought that company up. Either way, I can't say for 100% certainty. However, the spring mod will work for any viscous fan clutch - Ford, Dodge, etc...They all work the same.

There is a way to change the locking point of a viscous fan clutch. Basically, you shorten the spring that moves the pin which locks the fan clutch. It is on the very front of the fan clutch. Those springs expand and contract based on temp, and a shorter spring will expand/contract sooner engaging the fan at a sooner temp. Just google "fan clutch spring mod" and plenty of YouTube vids showing. However, It would be hard for a DIY'er to nail a temperature down without trial and error. Theoretically, you could manually move the pin to "lock it", and remove the spring. This would lock the fan at 70% (or 80%) as if the clutch were engaged all the time. This is different than "pinning the fan", which would be a direct 1 to 1 drive. Even locked, a fan clutch only spins at 70% or 80%. But, I think these guys (https://kit-masters.com/fan-clutches/, use to be called "MS Tech") will modify the spring based on a specific temp setting you request. I've also heard changing the oil in the fan clutch to a different viscosity will change when it engages/disengages.