IBMobile

Plastic toilets are lighter and hold up better being towed down the road. The toilet in my rig is 12 years old and not one problem.

As for a warranty most aren't worth the power to blow them to hell. I wouldn't get one that's my experience with them. The dealer has a big profit margin with add on things like the warranties or that "protective treatment" they do to the interior. They will push it for their profit only. The best time to buy a vehicle is the end of the month. Dealer managers want to move the units out of inventory to show strong sales figures to the owner for the month. Also if they are flooring the inventory, this is where a bank owns the inventory, the dealer doesn't want to pay the interest on the unit for the next month and will sell it for a skinny, not make much, deal. So take your time and you do the 'grinding' on them when you're in the booth. Get the deal you want and don't be afraid to walk if it doesn't feel right for you. And anything you want or they promise GET IT IN WRIGHTING!!! Go over the trailer with a fine tooth comb. open every draw and door. Turn on every switch no mater what it's hooked up to, stove, heater, fridge, water pump, you get the idea. You might want to make up a check list of thing you want to inspect before you go. Remember this; they have a trailer you may or may not want but you have the money they definitely want.

That's what vice grips under the seat are for.

One of the most important thing to make living in an RV is storage. Think of all the things you need to take with you and where you're going to put them. Make a list for each room and you'll see how fast a trailer fills up. Kitchen items IE: pots pans, flat ware, plates bowels, paper cups, mugs, paper towels, dish towels, etc., etc., and food supplies take the bulk of the storage. Next is clothing. Winter camping uses the most storage for this due to the type of clothing. The jackets are bigger than a sweater, long under wear hats, gloves, etc. It gets annoying when you have to keep moving thing out of your way when you don't have a place to put them.

I've towed travel trailers and 5th wheels and I like the ride the 5th wheel gives, you don't get that up and down see-saw motion. If I need extra stuff I hook up a trailer behind the 5er and fill that up. A queen size bed is nice if you're big, if you're my size you can rent out the extra space. It makes RVing that much better in cold weather. Who want to spend their camping time dealing with problems if they can be avoided.

How to go from "I have a dream......" to 'I'm living in a nightmare!!' Ya got'ta love these threads

Does it make the popping noise when the truck is at a stand still or in a slow turn. If at a stand still jack the front end up an turn the steering wheel lock to lock. If at a slow turn is it left, right or both? Have some one drive the truck in a circle while your out side listening you might be able to narrow it down. Then again it's a diesel and can't hear anything.

You can do it Mike. I flew from San Diego to Providence, R.I. one time with two small tool boxes. It was to change out the A/C compressor on my MOM's car. What we wouldn't do for our moms.

That little in tank pump looks just like the type Volvo used in their tanks (1976-1992) to feed the main Bosch fuel pump. They didn't hold up to well either.

DANG! Holy jump up and take names! That's almost twice as much as I pad for my first house!

↑ I agree ↑ Any time I've changed any bearing in a diff I always reuse the same shim pack. If you're pulling the crush sleeve off put a new one on.

I'd get one.....but then I'd have to live in it to pay for it.

Next month we'll be getting our RVs ready for weekends and weeks of camping. Now there's nothing more annoying than having a break down and wasting precious vacation time fixing what ever broke. The frustration of setting up camp and your wife telling you that there's no hot water can ruin any outing. What if you have to leave the camp site and someone else has to hook up your rig and move it, would they know how? Here are a few of my "to do" check lists for truck and trailer. Since I pull a boat trailer behind my 5th wheel those check lists are here also. Comment on any steps that I might have missed or that are pertinent to your RV set up. These files are in Micro Soft Excel. Trailer Inspection---Start a few weeks before leaving CHECK LIST #1A.xlsx Truck Inspection---Start a few weeks before leaving CHECK LIST #2A.xlsx Boat prep---Start a few weeks before leaving CHECK LIST #3A.xlsx Boat trailer---Start a few weeks before leaving CHECK LIST #4A.xlsx Pre trip truck inspection---Day before leaving CHECK LIST #5A.xlsx Pre trip trailer inspection---Day before leaving CHECK LIST #6A.xlsx Inside trailer before hook-up---When leaving CHECK LIST 7A .xlsx Outside trailer before hook-up---When leaving CHECK LIST #8A.xlsx Hooking up to trailer--- I'm going CHECK LIST #9A.xlsx

my 2000 has the same set up for under the seat storage that Mike has less the water bottle.

I agree with Wild and Free. I've done a few pinion bearings in the Dana axles and it's not hard just time consuming if you've never done one. Parts are 2 bearings with race, pion seal, gasket and/or RTV, PB Blaster, and diff oil. This will give you an idea of how it's done. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjQv2JQXYgE

You're welcome. So much info, my eyes started to glaze over and my mind turned to mush.

If you want to know about batteries check out this link. http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/index.htm

the spring washer in the picture still looked good. If it still puts pressure on the bushing then use it.

This you tube video may help you out. It's from a 94 truck but 95% of all rear brakes are the same. While your in there you may want to change out the brake cylinders to the GMC type for a 50% increase in rear brake power. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlkHAB38BxM

The problem with using WD-40 or solvents is it evaporates in a few days. You might as well rub diesel fuel on them. Try a little test by taking a peace of metal (sheet metal would work good) put a solvent (paint thinner), WD-40, diesel fuel and a light coating of engine oil. Set the sheet metal in the garage for a week and see what's left. I bet it'll be the engine oil. By the way, one of my customer's worked for WD-40 here in San Diego. He told me the main ingredient is cut kerosene.

I don't think you need any lube on the rod where It meets the master. I've never put lube on any I've ever done. I never put any on the push rod in a brake booster when changing a master cylinder. I was thinking along the same lines as KATOOM. Over the years I've used a thin coating of white lithium grease with no problems.

No It shouldn't. Years ago I work on a brake system that someone put ATF in the brake fluid reservoir. The master leaked and the brake hoses had ballooned up. Replaced everything but the hard brake lines.

I take it the grease is just on the out side of the master. Try spraying it with brake cleaner. Brake cleaner will not harm the rubber parts but don't get it into the fluid reservoir. I think you may dodge the bullet.

Remember: A used tool never rusts and a rusted tool never works. I just wipe the tools off an put them away. The only tools I have a problem with are the impact sockets because they are not chrome plated and I do get caught out in the rain once in a while.

People like me are glad there are people like you to do those jobs.