IBMobile

All of the photos in his posts and articles have been removed; don't know why.

So, that $550 covers shipping cost both ways?

Thanks for the photos; their great. In the first pic it looks like you're on the wrong side of the road for that part of the world and there is even some blue sky The dog is cute. She looks like some of my customers when I'm explaining car stuff to them. Sure, an amateur found a Viking treasure of more than 1500 pieces in a field with his metal detector in Staffordshire, England

When I started my mobile repair shop any time I saw a Volvo I placed a flyer on the windshield, that brought in a lot of work. You will want to stock some of the fast moving parts and supplies, this will cut down on running around or waiting for parts down time.

Your loosing prime, the fuel is draining back to the tank. You have a fuel fitting that not tight or an O-ring that is old and falling apart. Check all of your fuel lines and fittings. The fuel return line fitting at the back of the head has given problems. A few people have had the O-rings go bad.

After testing and conferring the consensus is my truck needs a new torque convertor. The truck is used 95% of the time towing a 8,000+ pound 5th wheel and the transmission is basically stock. Which brand is good and which type, stock or billet? Should it be a single or triple disk? High or low stall speed? Any thing else you can think of.

It sound like you had a mixed bag holiday with fun and new sights along with will we make it home in one piece. £500 to go 600 miles, that's about $1/mile. It might be cheaper to come to the States or Canada and rent a motorhome. You can go camping with @JAG1 and me.

Good luck with the 21 year old. See if he offers to super size it. I think the clip you're looking for is part number 52028680AB and it is no longer available. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-retainer~52028680ab.html

I have two scanners that I use and on will give me codes with live data from the ECM and the other will only give me codes with no live data. I think it's the protocol set up between the scanner and the Cummins ECM.

You can apply dielectric grease on the connections or you can redo the ground wire from the PCM to the passenger (right) side battery like I did below. IBMobile ASE Certified Master Auto Technician Board Of Directors 1,635 1,821 posts San Marcos, CA Report post (IP: 75.39.180.178) Posted May 28, 2018 I finally got around to cleaning up the ground wire splices for the PCM this week end. It's not hard and took very little time to do. NOTE: Do this after the other modifications have been done or you will lose the ECM, VP and grid heater grounds. You need: 2 10-12 gauge butt connectors 2 1/4 heat shrink tube 2" long rosin core solder 140 watt solder gun (Weller) or small butane torch roll of electrical tape razer knife wire cutters wire striper Remove air cleaner housing this will open up the whole area to work in. No need to disconnect the batteries, just unplug the gray connector at the ground wires of the right (AUX) battery. The other gray connector has already been disconnected when the ground wires were relocated to the back of the timing cover. Disconnect the 3 plugs at the PCM Cut and strip the 8 gauge wire then cut the connector off the 10 gauge wire and strip it back to fit the butt connector. This is the connection with the cove off. This is splice #S109 that the grounds for the ECM, PCM, VP44, grid heater relay and data link connector. Slide the heat shrink on to the wire were it won't be affected by the heat of soldering. Remove any plastic covering on the butt connector, insert the wires into the connector and solder. Let cool then cove with the heat shrink. At the PCM find the two 14 gauge black with tan stripe wires. They go up into the split wire cover about 10" that's were you'll find splice #S126 There are two 14 gauge black with tan strip wires coming down to the connector. One is the ground for the data link connector and the other is not used. Repeat the cut, strip and solder process as above. When done it should look like this. 1 1 dripley and JAG1 reacted to this Quote Edit Options 2000 2500 quadcab, lwb, 4.10 ls, auto, edge ez, manual boost controller, RV275 injectors, 4" s/s magnaflow, fuel boss pump, BHAF,cold air box, issapro: trans temp, boost, egt, fp on A pillar, mystery switch, wife riding shotgun.

Pin #11 of the ECM is the common sensor ground for: the water in fuel sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor, intake air temperature sensor, and engine oil pressure sensor. There is a common splice point in the harness for this black with light blue tracer wire. When ohm testing between the #11 pin and the sensors the reading should show continuity with low resistance. I think @dripley has had problems with that splice.

Thanks, I pulled that up when I got the code and most of it deals with the overdrive which in this case works fine. Ohm testing from pin #87 of the transmission relay to the PCM shows the wiring is good and when the TCC solenoid is grounded going down hill I feel the TCC lock up. I'm starting to wonder if running 100% +4 synthetic fluid is causing the TCC to slip since this started after flushing and replacing the fluid

In March the transmission had a no or delayed 1-2 and 2-3 shift condition. The transmission and cooling lines were flushed, the 3-4 accumulator spring, along with the governor solenoid and pressure/temperature transducer replaced. The fluid was changed to Valvoline synthetic +4. The transmission shifted great after the repair. The end of July I go on a 1000 mi "camping trip" pulling my 5th wheel with the boat behind it. I find out that I have no torque convertor lock up! This had happened once before in May of 2018 for about 10 miles. Now, cruising at 60 mph the RPMs are1900±; when accelerating from 60 mph the RPM increase rapidly to 2400-2700 depending on the load and peddle position; when the accelerator peddle is released at 60 mph the RPMs drop to 1400. The transmission temperature, measured in the cooling line between the pump and engine coolant heat exchanger, is normally 160-170° but with no lock up the temperature is 190° ±100°. When going up long grades the temperature climbs rapidly and when it reaches 240° I pull off the road, put the transmission in neutral with the engine at idle, and after 15 minutes the fluid cools to 190° then I can finish the grade. At 60 mph with the 'Mystery' switch on the RPMs still increase rapidly when accelerating indicating the torque convertor is not locked; when the accelerator peddle is released there is a drop of only 50 RPMs and there is engine breaking going down hills but the truck can come to a full stop in 3ed or 4th lock up, with the switch still engaged, and the engine will not stall. The fluid is still clean and full, the APPs in live data shows good with a smooth 0-100% transition and AC voltage is at .03v ±.005. Ohm testing the solenoids shows: 3-4 shift solenoid 32.8Ω, TCC solenoid 32.8Ω, and the new Borg Warner governor solenoid 6.2Ω. What I'm thinking is either a lose of pressure to the TCC, a poorly opening weak solenoid, or a bad TCC.

Those are grounds, nothing special. Clean them up, then take this nut off, clean some of the paint off the nut and fender and attach.

Was my wife cooking there? If the smoke alarm isn't going off it ain't done.

I have the same problem. Before each trip I do a complete contain inventory of the 5th wheel. If I have 12 rolls of paper towels on board for a 10 day trip she adds another 10 rolls; 90 paper plates add another 100. Sugar, flower, walnuts, bananas, crushed pineapple, banking powder packed just incase to make a banana-nut bread; it was not made, had to carry it back in to the house.

I think this is the picture you're looking for.

Those pressures are for the over pressure safety switch not the running pressure. That falls in the normal range. I think @dripley and you are on to something with that connection and spring.

Need to have the pressure readings to see what's going on. Also, there is a high pressure switch which opens between 450-490psi and closes 270-330psi.

@JAG1 how about using that extra virgin olive oil you were trying out to make your trim black again?

I can't help you with the heat. I've worked up in your area in the summer...no thanks. I know you installed those new parts but I tried to take you through the diagnostic process so no steps are missed. This shows where the ground is located under the dash. It looks like a PIA to get to. If you find that the ground (black/orange) wire from the A/C heater control is the problem then just run a new ground straight down on the left center dash support and ground it on the dash frame near the power outlet.