IBMobile

I like it and that handle works for me. As for hot tile, I have the same stove but in white and no problem with the heat effecting the cabinets on either side.

Good, a complete constant failure is the best when doing diagnostics on this type of problem.

@98whitelightnin this might help

Yes, but I would look for an open circuit between and including the head light switch to the lights. The ground G201 can still ohm tested when the head light switch is accessed.

Don't worry about where that ground is right now. It's probably good. Not only are the fog lights grounded there but also the: Head lamp switch Cigar lighter Instrument cluster Head lamp beam selector switch A/C heater control Electric brake provision Power outlet Glove box, ash tray and cup holder lights. From joint connector #5 If you had a problem with this ground then these other systems would be effected but run the fog light test as outlined above.

Next time it happens remove the head light switch and ohm test the black/orange wire; it should be close to 0 ohms; if not then you have a bad ground. If the ground tests good then with a jumper wire ground the brown/yellow wire at the head light switch; if the fog lights come on then the switch is bad If they don't come on then remove the fog light relay and ground terminal 30; If they come on then the wires from the relay to lights are good and there is an open circuit between the head light switch and the relay. Ohm test the test the wire from the head light switch to pin #85 and the pin #87; reading should be close to 0 ohms. If not then check for open circuit in the brown/yellow wire. It might be at connector C134 (multipin connector at PDC) or splice S183 (in the PDC).

I'm with @dave110on this. Is this what your looking at? It's #7 in the diagram. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts-list/1998-dodge-ram-2500-quad-club-cab/service-brakes-rear-height-sensing-system.html?PNC=7

Recharging drained batteries by driving around or idling put a heavy load and strain on the charging system and should be avoided. I don't think you could put a full charge back into the batteries and if the alternator is marginal it could be damaged. The best way is like @Tractorman said "slow charge for several hours".

If you keep replacing the crank sensor and get the same result then it's not the crank sensor. The ECM was good when tested so new sensor and good ECM then may be bad connector/wiring. I would start doing some doing some volt/ohm testing on that circuit. Read this and do the tests then let use know what you find.

I looked at Ford and couldn't see the engine through all that plastic covering it and did not like the idea of the turbo in the back of the engine. Turbo Volvos are like that and are a pia to work on. The GMC/Chevrolet Duramax was to new on the market and one thing I learned being in the car business for over 45 years is Do Not buy any vehicle in the first year or two. The manufacture is still working the bugs out. Opened the hood on a Ram Cummins diesel and I could see the engine, the exhaust manifold with turbo hanging there and the intake system. Not a bunch of plastic covering things to make it look pretty; an engine that had been around for a long time and straight six is easier to work on than a V8.

I went through 3 stock lift pumps in 74,500 miles before I installed a Fuel Boss.

Warranty....you funny. That's a hell of a lot of power to do that. How much?

Good going getting to the bottom of this. Did you wire the ECM to pin 86 of the rely, the relay pin that they said was turned on with the ignition switch, or straight to the fuel pump?

@JAG1I've got half a case of 12 gauge 00 buck and half a case of 12 gauge slugs and a few boxes of #4 and #5 led shot, that is now illegal to hunt with in California, you can use if the neighbors don't mind.

There is a label in the glove box with the vin number and some build info. One piece of info is the differential size. It's faded but I can still read mine.

1.These people are looking at there bottom line. Customer support takes time and time is money. The person giving support has to be trained in all the products as well as what the prducts are going into, more money. They might have used up all the wire harnesses for these trucks and are now putting out a cheaper generic harness. Since these trucks are 16 years or older how many more of these pumps are they going to sell. 2. If the ECM does not 'see' the fuel pump it will set code p0230; there is nothing wrong with your ECM. My truck would set the code p0230 because it has a Fuel Boss pump. To prevent the code the signal from the ECM is used to trigger the relay for my back up pump but the pump is no used by removing its power fuse. 3. I heard that high fuel pressure can cause hard starting but there are some people with fuel pressure over 20 psi with no problems. When my truck starts with the Fuel Boss there is 0 psi. 4. I too live in California and will be looking for those stickers.

@Dynamic Would you be open to people sending their valve body in for modification and if so what would be the approximant cost be?

@Dynamic is the site transmission guru and probably has done it many times. Lets see what he has on it. I did fine this at the Cummins Forum https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/573451-2nd-gear-lockup-would-nice-can-done.html

A good read thanks for the info. The last time I was in a pick your part yard I found that certain alternator connectors for a gas Ram were the same as the diesel. I cut the connector off of the harness and used it for testing the amp draw from the PCM.

When the engine is under very high boost condition and the throttle is abruptly closed a high back pressure condition occurs, also known as turbo surge, in the turbo charger and can be damaging. You can hear when this happens, we call this 'turbo bark'. The blow off valve, BOV, releases the boost pressure preventing damage to the compressor, intercooler, pipes and hoses. If your boost pressures are low then you don't need one. With higher boost numbers and you've heard your turbo bark a BOV might be what the truck needs. There are others on this forum that have more experience with them.

Those installation instructions are pretty generic; hot and ground at the battery with an ignition switch trigger. Maybe some person in the office trying to justify their existence by releasing new directions without doing the research of what their product is being installed in.

@JAG1 Glad to see you back.

You walk into a parts house to get something for the truck. The guy behind the counter asks "What are driving? You say " I have a Dodge Cummins diesel". He gives you this face and he's thinking about a week in Waikiki with the wife and kids with what he's going to make off of you.

Is this the installation manual that came with the pump? I can see way you're befuddled with the outcome. https://fassride.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/T-D08-095G-or-T-D08-165G-Install-Manual-1.pdf Read this article,; it might help you understand how it should be wired. @pepsi71ocean and @Stanley if the relay has diode suppression then the signal wire from the ECM has to come to terminal 86 of the relay to prevent damage to either the ECM or the relay itself and 85 is the ground. This would change if the diode in the wire diagram on the side of the relay is reversed. If the relay has no suppression or uses a resistor than it doesn't matter if terminal 85 or 86 is used for the ground. There is no ground for the lift pump in the ECM, only power from the ECM at terminals 15 an 35. The ground for the OEM lift pump is at G107. Ground, G107, for the OEM lift pump is located on the left side of the engine block beneath the OEM lift pump.