IBMobile

Right you are.

Every thing is factory. I just removed the 9004 blubs and installed the 9104 blubs. This is the easiest and most inexpensive up grade you can do.

I've been using them, 12V 100/80watt 9104 blub, for the last 15 years with no problem to either the lamp assembly, the wiring, the fuse, or the head light switch. I like using them on low beam with the driving lights on. When on high the light seems to be a flood light and not a spot beam. The brand I have is Flosser.

The reason most anti-theft systems disable the starting system is after the engine is started the starter is just along for the ride. If the fuel or ignition system has a disable switch and the engine cuts out while driving because of it there may be an accident. The liability is just to great.

@Mopar1973Man this is for a 1971 Ford F250 with a Cummins engine.

I'm book with work right now but I'll have lots of time next week to put something together.

I have the wire diagram for a 70 Ford F250, which should be the same as a 71, so if you can get the controller diagram we'll see what we can put together.

Most RV trailer plugs are 7 pin but there are a few 6 pin plugs out there. The max electrical load will probably be recharging the deep cycle battery(s) when driving. Do you have the wire diagram for the brake controller, that would be very helpful.

How many pin plug do you have? What size is the electrical load?

To block heat or not to block heat....It is better to heat some of the time than to start cold all of the time.

May be the previous owner replaced the rear brake wheel cylinders with the larger GM type for added braking power..

A friend has a 2006 Nissan UD 2600 turbo diesel with over 400k miles. Last month the truck had no top end power and would stall at every stop when fully warmed up. He brought it into the local shop where they found 2 injectors bad. After replacing all the injectors the engine ran fine for about a week. Now after a run down the freeway when stopping the idle will oscillate between 700-400 RPM then die and can be restarted immediatly. Any one have experience with this?

In California the max mag size is 10. Only law enforcement, when on the job, and criminal can own larger. You can only buy one rifle, shotgun, or pistol every 30 days with a 10 day waiting period thrown in. Starting in June you have to pass a background check with the DOJ to buy ammo ($35), It is good for 5 years and pay a $1 transaction fee for each purchase. All info of the trans action is kept by the DOJ.

That is because the system is still getting 12V from the park light circuit which powers up the light in the head light switch. I forgot about that. When you ground #30 look at the head light switch ; you'll see the little blue fog light in the switch is on. Now pull the park light fuse and it should go out and no voltage to #30. If this is the case and you still have 12V from the fog light fuse to the fog lights then there is an open grounding circuit between the fog lights and the relay terminal #30.

All the wires at the PCM are 18 gauge EXCEPT C1 pins #22 RD/WT, # 31 and #32 BK/TN, C3 pin #12 DG/OG; these are 14 gauge.

That accessory PDC looks like it may work for me. I've got someone who wants my torque converter lockup system along with a grid heater bypass switch with resistors installed in their truck and this should handle all the relays and power fuses I need to use.

We've seen this problem before; like @dripley said, get rid of the isolator, test alternator ac out put, and do the ground mods. This is cheap and simple before you go dumping a bunch of money chasing the problem. If the AC level is to high it can also take out your ECM, PCM, or the ABS module in due time.

It sounds like you have the common torque converter lock/unlock problem caused by high AC voltage from the alternator. You need to check what the AC voltage is at the B+ terminal at the back of the alternator. It should be .03 volts or less. You might want to do this modification.

The chart for C1 at the PCM doesn't show an orange/black (OR/BK) wire but there is an orange/dark blue (OR/DB) wire at pin #23 used for the throttle position sensor signal. May be this is the wire with the dark blue looking black.

In the PDC remove the fog light relay. With the head light and ignition switches in the off position there should be voltage at terminal #30. With a jumper wire ground terminal #30, the fog lights should come on. Turn the head light switch on and select low beam, there should be battery voltage at terminal #86. Now select high beam, there should be no voltage to terminal #86. With the head light switch and fog light switch both turned on Ohm test terminal #87 then terminal #85, both should have a reading of less than 5 ohms. Terminal #87A doesn't do anything so it is blank.

Almost all the ground wires in the truck are black with orange tracer. The only black/orange (BK/OR) wire to check in the fog light system is the one from the headlamp switch to G201. The other two wires to check are the light blue (LB) from the fog lights to the relay and the brown/yellow from the relay to the headlamp switch. Recheck the wire diagram, if you need to, as to were the wires go.

I have the same problem with the knobs moving to on by just brushing against them. Several times I've smelled gas in the kitchen and found a knob slightly turned on.

I like it and that handle works for me. As for hot tile, I have the same stove but in white and no problem with the heat effecting the cabinets on either side.

Good, a complete constant failure is the best when doing diagnostics on this type of problem.

@98whitelightnin this might help