Timd32

Etrailer has them for 2021. Only thing listed for 2022 is a Ford. But I don't know of any changes 2021 to 2022 on the frame, so might need help on that. https://www.etrailer.com/fmr-2021_Ram_3500.htm?&Redirect=8

Have not seen much of any trucks, but for sure see more trucks then formal Jeeps. Think they just got a handful like 5 and that was that l way for a long time. Local dealer has a quite a few HD RAMS, mostly C&C actually then anything else. Oddly enough as they don't usually have any. I'm in NJ and yeah can't pump your own but Diesel is only $3.59 right now, so nothing close to CA pricing. Most of the places don't care if you pump Diesel for the small trucks, large trucks TT they mostly pump their own.

It's a very unique MB lots of custom features. If anyone happens across part or pieces. Not mine, it's a guy named Phil who is on a different forum, nice guy put a lot of work into this rig. Hi guys I need your help, a sob took my jeep, a diesel-powered MB, Philipsburg Montana On or about oct 1 2021, thieves cut three locks on the shed door and took my MB diesel jeep. It has: 3.3 Cummins diesel, t19 4 speed, t18 with taper bearings and mb brake, a pto winch with drive-line down pass side, 30 front axle, 44 rear shop-made full floater, disc brakes front, 11 inch drums rear, possi, shop-made pto. m38 gas tank and seats, m38 rear seat, shop-made military tow bar (WW2-type) fender lights, 1 wrecker light, lots of gauges, volt meter is Ford, Shop made 15x7 wheels heavy-duty, 2 inch sqr roll bar, ham 7950 radio, windshield is mb lifted 3 inchs for good wipers and a upside down gun holder, m151 heater under pass seat, m38 tail lights, olive drab green (no stars or numbers), cable steps (removable), red gearshift knob, 2 stick transfer shifters, body stretched 10 inches and shop-made rear body (mb front clip), 12 volt, starter has been machined and rolled into the engine. Dual brake cylinder and is way ahead of the pedals line lock, electric fuel pump, mb air cleaner with replaceable paper element. CJ7 frame and springs, one missing shock (rock eat it) skid plate on rear end housing, GI gas can and spare tire. Stolen MB.pdf

Good luck with your new adventure, sounds like a pretty nice set up with a bunch of different stuff to work on, will never be boring.

Don't forget to recheck your pulley bolts when done. Mine came loose and I never thought to check them as I never had the physical pulley off, it tossed the belt after about 20 miles, this was a few years back. My wrenches are a little different for my 96, tje back one goes over the heads of the bolts of the pulley. Might not be an issue if your wrenches don't rest on the heads of the pulley bolts. I posted some pics of what I did wrong a few years back.

Awesome job. Looks pretty sweet. Operation looks very nice. Easy to get to your oil and fuel filters.

Been following this build for a while. Great job, looks awesome. Lots of progress since I last checked in.

Happy Birthday! Enjoy some down time.

This place has a lot of instructions and some videos. The only front kits I saw were inside the spring helpers for the front. https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&inc_subcat=1&categories_id=1806&year_select=1996&make_select=620&model_select=8129&x=124&y=16

No problem. They seem like a really neat axles.

You might be good to go then, these are a little different then like a conventional limited slip rear. Here is some info on these. http://www.demandaam.com/technical-support/aam-diferrentials/tracrite-gt-helical-gear-limited-slip-differential Also found a few videos, the one is a little scary dont think I'm throwing mine on a jack but worked out just fine for them. Maybe hold off on opening the cover if you think it was just done. Kinda same principal I think. Second video linked to this one....

Could not find those numbers either. But did find the info between the Open Diff and Limited Slip. Guess since it's new to you, would change the fluid and might be easier to figure it out. Plus who knows what's in there to start with. From most of the AAM documents the part number listed for an open Diff is: That open Diff part number was superceded in 2017. 11.5 " Rear Axle Open Differential Case with Internal Gears Effective immediately, the part number for the open differential case with internal gears for the 11.5" AAM rear axle will be superseded from 40101020 to 40146894. The change in the part number reflects a change to a set screw for holding the cross pin versus using a snap ring. The external case has all the same dimensions and internal components as the 40101020. http://www.demandaam.com/pressrelease/aam-announces-two-product-supersessions?page=1 Pic of that new part number for the open Diff. 40146894 Pic of the Limited Slip 40099548 Some good info here as well. http://www.demandaam.com/technical-support/product-catalogs-1 Good luck with your project.

Welcome to the forum.

There are some troubleshooting steps available at torqueking. Scroll down to the bottom. Might help on the 4WD issue. https://torqueking.com/product/40224/qu40224-vacuum-shift-motor-kit-for-dana-cad-front-axles/ If not the correct axle then disregard.

I'm not sure on your question, but if you cant find a free download the ATSG books are around $40 they have a blue cover you can get PDF and paper most of the time off a bunch of places. I could not find a free download, I was able to find a preliminary book they put out, alot of places are passing this on as the rebuild manual but it is not the full version it's just a snapshot of the trans. Good luck in your search and repair. I have had 9 of those vehicles, 2013 thru 2016, there was a reflash for some shifting issues about late 2017 that helped alot and a bunch of ours were 5yr/100k warranty and all were covered, also there was a pump recall on some where they would replace the whole unit it was very specific on the VIN on those might have been on some 16's. Check your warranty status via the normal dodge site, register and enter your info and it will bring up the warranty info, I sold some that still fixed under warranty, but you need a good service writer and you need to have the specific complaint to get the flash or they hit you up for the work. You never know, unless you it's out of warranty, or are well past 100k or know you got it in early '15 or late '14. Then you are most likely timed out. I was surprised on the 5/100 powertrain and how long it lasted. 09R62TE.pdf

@dieselautopower Had a very nice sized targeted ad for DAP while reading Business Insider about the Boeing Max mess. Was actually nice to see an ad for once knowing they are a good supporter of the site.

Sounds like you need to pull the codes and see what is stored in causing the 3rd gear start. There are a few items. Renew your membership and download the book. It's available for download. This is on page 36 of the ATSG book, but you should start back at page 34. Pull codes, pressure checks, compare the psi to what the data back to the PCM. After the easy stuff like checking the fuses and power to the PCM, the connector it self. Good luck with you repair.

Sound good. I checked my other books, I have a 96 ABS book maybe 40 pages, and a giant TSB book from 96, and the manual supplement but I think that is for a bunch of vehicles not specific to our trucks.

Should be in the FSM. The you can either use the index or the tabs. The item is usually detailed in the section for the part. I'll download what's up there and take a look. I have it from TechAuthority. But I think it's all the same. My guess is you see this note in the FSM> from your other post about the speed sensor issue. Not sure what book that references, but I think the FSM has a few great areas to assist you without that one. Never really noticed that reference before. I usually find the wire diagram in the 8W section using the index for the specific part, it will show you the pin, color, gauge of the wire. And you can go from there. Yeah it's a lot of back and forth in the book as there are a lot of areas you need to piece together.

Sign up here for a membership, all the books are available for download to paid members. There are multiple tiers for membership.

I got some bottoms and a top and modified them to all fit together with a butcher block top. I agree the color is much brighter then my older box, but it's hard to paint match in my case my old box is from 1997 so it would be expected not to match. The quality was what I expected and prices was decent, I got them at Lowes everything was on sale at some point. Top was a blemished from the kitchen area. Had to drill out a bunch of rivets to remove the top cover and some interior panels on the top to drill the sides thru, then just used the plastic rivets from our inner fenders to reassemble the cover plates. It made a nice area for my chargers as the top had a power strip built into it.

Little hard to get them at our local Sears anymore. It closed then the roof collapsed a few months later, then to save on taxes the whole thing came down. I have never had good luck "shopping" at a NAPA for stuff, they have a ton of stuff out on the shelves but usually the counter folks are pretty crabby. Kinda have to have a specific mission and stick to that at our local ones.

Looking great, my guess is the cab is coming off a few more times, if you haven't might want to check and adjust the valves at some point with the cab off as it looks like it might be tight later on for the #6. They really don't require a whole lot of adjustment and you would likely be set for a long time. Also might want to make a short list of items to do while you have good access to the engine. Couple small fuel items on the drivers side and the sort. But really coming along nice.

Could your TV cable somehow be causing issues with your throttle linkage? Maybe something is hung up there, if the TV is not set correctly you will have some other issues for sure in general. Just looking for common areas between the throttle and trans.