JAG1

I put in new ones. They are the same or similar to the 12 valve engines. I've done two on my 1 st gen and then one one the 24 valve, but the 24 valve had the problem of the belt making noises I thought was the water pump. I think the toughest part of the change out is getting the right size ratchet wrench to release tension on the belt. I had to add a length of pipe to the ratchet so I had enough leverage to get the belt to release. I can't remember if it was a 1/2'' drive or 3/8ths drive that fits on the front of the tensioner. I think O Reillys' had new and rebuilt water pumps for the Cummins.

I cannot get this video to show up. I think my computer is limited in some respects. I have a tough time creating a link to the news article in a free press publication. It's about three of the people who worked for the DNC and were blowing the whistle on the fraud going on. All three of them have been shot near their homes or shot in mysterious ways.

It even has an O ring instead of a gasket so there is no scraping and cleaning. It is one of the easiest.

Any pics? No rust I hope.

I am very cautious after the last recession when the same economic woes are developing again and creeping ever closer to a bigger cliff this time around. Buy smart be smart and listen to your inner my Grandma used to say.

I think it's good not using cheaper alcohol based rv antfreeze. I think the alcohol tends to drys out the seals.

Not tough for a contortionist and magician like you Michael. I wonder why they call it a 'knife valve' expecting some big ones?? Anyway enough joking around....... I heard that pouring Johnson baby oil in there each year after it's put away for the winter keeps the rubber seals lubed and soft so this doesn't happen.

Why don't you look for a cream puff second gen? Save 15-20 k bucks? I bet you can find a nice respectable family to buy from instead of a dealer.

I think he said it shuts down on its own without warning, then like something has to cool off, wait a few seconds or minutes to fire it back up with the key again.

Sorry about that. Mines next since it is a 2002 model. I hope its an easy fix I'm glad the winds' not blowing this way boss.

Does the 24 valve have the fuel shut off solenoid like a 12 valve does?

I hope to be able to help. I think you have an air leak in the lines so if you put low pressure to the tank a drip might show up along the lines somewhere. btw, Eric at Vulcan told me not to use the quick connect hoses, that they leak air. Mine is 1/2'' solid lines and radiator type hose clamps. I think your problem is at the draw straw hose connection at the top of the module if you have the quick connect there. I just watched the Air Dog fuel Module upgrade Video and that's what they used to connect to the Draw Straw. Eric says a big No for those type

I should have put up a link for it. I just googled reviews on the DR kinetic log splitter and went down the list. 3said not so good and one said great unit.

The old ADs had an inlet screen but your F/P is good at idle so probly not the issue. Do you have a water sep filter? Bad batch of fuel? Injection lines and supply line tight on the VP?

What fuel pressure reading are you getting at idle? Do you have the big line kit? Is there a clogged screen at the lift pump inlet? Draw straw cut too long? Fuel canister/ module screens clear and clean? Factory fuel filter cap wrenched to 25 foot pounds, no cracks in the plastic top from using the square and not a big socket?? I use pipe insulation around an air nozzle stuffed down the fill neck with low low pressure to prime the fuel and then see how she starts, if different? Overflow valve working proper or the return line 'T' on the back of the head leaking? Sorry for all the homework and questions, but, trying to help boss.

It's got bad reviews for little power. Not able to split thru green logs or hardwoods. Not enough power and having one flywheel instead of two like most kinetic splitters makes it limited. Owner that bought one said go hydraulic. Only one person reported great machine and gave it higher marks but the majority said not so good. I have been hiring some young guys to split mine but it's hard to find guys that split wood like I used to when younger. I had overwhelming ambition.

I sanded the alternator case and tried to find any resistance thru the mount bracket. One volt meter I have is too smart (need classes for it) and couldn't understand the reading but the other more simple VM said zero resistance between the Alt case and engine block. So my thoughts about a separate grounding from Alt. case to neg battery post isn't needed. However, some may have more rust or corrosion on their bracket soit might be good to check anyhow. Be sure batteries are disconnected while using the volt meter on OHMs as it will hurt the VM if dc volts are present.

Can't win around here

I will report back tonight about sanding some lacquere off the Alt case to see if there is resistance thru the mount bracket.

I bought it from Source Automotive in Clackamas, Oregon. At the time they had sold over 2400 of them across the country. Their number is 503 654 9004 Dripley I'm going to park the 16 foot chicken at night by your truck so it scares the living bejeebies out of you.

I tried calling Michael Nelson about this last night but he's very busey. I wanted to ask him about the painted alternator mounting bracket. I found that the bracket does not give a full connection to ground and has some resistance. I also read a lot about the value in running a separate ground from the Alternator housing to the negative battery post. Read there is a lot of benefit to that since batteries absorb most of the AC noise from the system. So I don't really know without talking to Michael because he is the electrical engineer. My truck has never had this problem and my alternator has a separate ground added.

My second gen when it only had about 30,000 miles got a DSS steering stabilizer. Not because it was loose steering or any play.... I wanted one because it stops the steering box shaft play from wearing out the bearing. My steering was like new and the DSS still made it better.

I suggested fine thread because it is a little better about not going loose from vibrations. Not as much taper or Barber shop sign effect. You can do something about this... don't give up hope. My firt gen has had a John Deere universal joint on the steering shaft for 300 k miles. Has it's own zirk. You can have it re revited or make sure bolts are the right diameter without the threads on the upper part of the shank. BTW, the U joint from John Deere is a mower deck drive shaft U joint. Small enough to be the right size.

A truck dealer in Portland, calling his company something to the tune of' Investment vehicles', something like that, has a few second gens selling for over 20,000 bucks. If I remember, I think one was $25 k, a dually with everything on it. I think most are manuals and have under 100,000 miles.

Do you guys keep full coverage on your trucks like me? And if stolen how to convince the insurance company what they are worth? Alex do you have full coverage ins?