JAG1

There was a guy here that did this mod a couple yrs ago and had trouble with it. I'm not sure who it was or what VR he used but know it can be accomplished fairly easily

Thanks joe for another worry.... Just kidding. Do you mean oil from crankcase into vacuum pump then into steering fluid resovoir?

Anyone know why I would have my power steering fluid overflowing? All was fine for 3 weeks without driving it (Driveway statue) and then one hot day it's coming out the cap. With truck sitting idle for 3 weeks, suddenly the fluid is at the top and overflowing.

Tim thanks for a conclusion to this story. I know it will help others in the future. My only comment is after having as many bad experiences as I've had with tire shops, I couldn't go so far as to trust them to do a sensor change out. I say this due to the underhanded carelessness, sometime near criminal mechanical conditions they've left me with, only caring that I paid the bill and out of the way for the next customer.

My doc is a total pill .... here take this and swallow that he says... and I'm going One says I have a heart mirmer, another says no there's nothing there. Another says I have to take an expensive 2,000 dollar scan when another says just a simple ultrasound will work instead. Sheesh it's like going to a car dealer. So far I've found eating raisins, carrots, good salad, exercise, and avoiding food additives helps loads when all I need is a way to stop eating doughnuts. Sorry about getting off topic here

Yes, I see...isn't the piled on things on top mean anything or, in a sense, speak to how poorly it runs?

Kudos to Mike Wingert for the above post. Thanks Mike for posting that. Very often doing the inexpensive steps first will find the problem. Often what is thought to be a bad part is part of the symptom not the problem. This is the beef I have with my doctor, he likes to prescribe things for eliminating the symptoms

It was the metal part of the basket that rotted on mine and I found that 4 inch ABS, the black plastic, fit perfectly in it's place. PVC won't fit as nicely but you could try it...I have various fittings from being in the trades and remember it was the ABS that worked. It replaces all the metal part. Just be sure to measure how long the whole basket should be. I know the factory makes them so they slide up and down with tank expansion but if you measure about a 1/4 inch off the bottom with the fuel tank sitting on the floor pulled out of the truck it will be fine. You are right joe... negates my whole concept of how dirty fuel can get in our tanks in the first place. I't almost like they have to get bad fuel from the get go to be a problem

I need the protection of my big heavy truck with the way people drive crazy around here. Besides I tried the 2 stroke in my wifes Subaru and it didn't work so hot

I keep trying but ea. time I visit this thread there is nothing there. Weird

What a nightmare! Must say something about the engines inefficiency to need all that or just plain bad design. Maybe both.

That's terrible.

It looks like a blonde wearing white clothes in a blizzard to me

Once in awhile you will hear of some bad fuel getting pumped out into diesel truck or car, the primary filter is added insurance. I've pulled the tank on my 2nd gen and found a clean tank each time, but my First gen had lots of gunk in the bottom when I pulled it the first time. It had around 125k miles at the time. Sometimes a station never pumps near the bottom of the underground tanks, then a new owner or manager may run it down lower that's when you get the bad fuel, when it's off the bottom that never gets rinsed out. Sometimes it's simply from condensation build up inside and you get the gunk growth in the water build up on the bottom. I don't like screened intank filters since you cannot access it or change it on a regular basis. I've heard those screens build up sediment and reduce flow. My diesel tractor had intank screens. They were a very fine mesh and when looking at them you couldn't tell they were clogged till you ran your finger across them because they had like a varnish build up on them. After cleaning them with the blower nozzle then you could see they were clogged (around 425 hrs on the hour meter) after cleaning them. Another diesel tractor owner could not figure what was wrong, why it wouldn't stay running. I asked to pull the fuel line from the tank. Right away you could see a build up of algea and other stuff coming out clogging the fuel line

I see..... Mike where do you want to go for the eclipse meet and greet? I was thinking of the 'all Dodge owner's rv park you posted up this morning, but there's not much shade trees.

I looked it it closely once. And thought it can be done but carefully. The float arm and potentiometer come as one part. I only know that. When mine goes bad I'm going to try and use one from West Marine, for a boat tank, cause I don't like the looks of the Dodge one. Boat stuff is made to be changed out a little bit easier and is a bit better quality.

I don't see anything, its just blank?

Where is your sig so we know what rig you have?

Nothin like bein' in the rat race....... been hearing how your needing to change valve cover gaskets on that Subaru for over a month. He he

Looks like the bed should be the engine bay for enough room to work on it

I went thru the same thing on my other truck which is my 1st gen DD. Ryan, try using a 4'' ABS straight coupling and adapting to the bottom with stainless screws. Been that way for better than 12 years now and still holding. Been driving that truck for 19 years all together now.

Not difficult when they are always inside a shop

Them second gens still the best lookin'.

I deliberately tore out the filter for better flow/ never clogs. I added a changeable one in line before the lift pump. That is the right way to set it up. That intank filter screen is so the dealer can shake you upside down for all yer pocket change

Joe, you have to be weird before you can drive a Prius. You'd never make it bud even if you took all the required classes for it.