JAG1

I like a rebuilder that has a policy that always puts on new electronics. That is my first question to these rebuilders.

My original Cummins cord went bad. I went down to ORielly's auto parts with the old cord. They had a box of assorted types of cord ends. I matched it up with an after market one for a very inexpensive price. It has been working well this winter and seems to be pretty good quality.

Honey, I put this big log into the woodstove but can't shut the door. Well pull it out! No, I can't it's blazing like mad :stuned:What's this lawsuit for criminal trespass?I'm sorry honey I was caught cutting firewood on the gas company's land.

I have been treated poorly by health care people simply by not telling me of alternative tests. ''Here's your bill on the copay.'' Turned out to be one of the most expensive tests. They did it acting like it was a simple, inexpensive quick type of a deal. Never any warning as to the expense. This really bothered me afterward. The next time I saw my doc I asked him why no discussion about that? It was like it didn't matter to him. Then during the same appointment I asked for an alternative medication due to the bad side effects. Dummy me I failed to look at the new bottle... the moron gave me the same presciption with the dangerous side effects. I am resolved to never have to go to a doctor ever again.

Affordable truck mods act . That's more like it.

I know an old guy... no insurance and never been to a doctor in 35 years.

I don't know about their warrantee. I just trusted that it would be a good one which it is. You know, I'd bet some of these testers at the Auto parts stores aren't good meters. I know a cheaper Volt meter almost always shows AC noise too high. We had a thread on this and the guys with the average VM's were showing .30 that sort of higher ACV range. I went out and found a Fluke and suddenly my wifes car and my trucks all showed low AC noise.My old VM works great in every way except the Alternator test, but, there's nothing like a Fluke vm.On Edit........ I don't think you need a 200 amp alternator even with an RV. just keep it simple.

Like said before you should try staying away from reman alternators. I'd call Larry and ask to have the higher output alt to be brought in. Good to have if you ever have an rv with extra batteries. Source automotive in Clackamas, Oregon (503 654 9004) stocks the higher output Nippon Denso and their prices are a little better too. That's where I got mine.

I can say many times..... always buy a new Alt. Never get one rebuilt as they don't really do a thorough job anymore. I think the Nippon Denso alternator is a better alt. than the Bosch. Those are the only two choices for our trucks. If you already have the Bosch you will need to change the wire connectors a little to adapt to the Nippon Denso. I did this and think it's worth it.One of the best prices for a new ND alternator is to order one from Larry B's. Just google it and he will come up and you will see one of the best prices. All he sells is parts for our Ram trucks.Another thing about the ND alternator is Larry B's sells a new diode bridge only for that alternator if you ever burn any diode.As far as going to transmission shops..... I don't trust many of them unless they are well recommended. I have been smoozed many times by transmission shops that act like they know everything, when in reality all they really do is buy transmissions from someone else that knows how to rebuild them. Many only know about changing yours over to a rebuilt trans bought from somewhere else. Be careful... many are good talkers know how to say the right things.

Do you guys have mandated smog devices on your wood stoves? Oregon sure does. When you get a new stove the firebox is alot smaller with all these cross tube manifolds over the top and preheated air intakes. And you can't shut them down all the way anymore either.If you have one of the good ole' stoves you cannot sell your home till you change it to the new type. They made it illegal to sell the old one as well.

P.S. When you reset those windows you'll need the byutle tape. Don't get the Home Depot stuff nor regular hardware stuff. Go to an HVAC supply house and get the more industrial stickier stuff. It really works and is much better.You'll need to clean off the old butyl rope off the windows and apply new. You need to do this inside a heated shop or on a warm day. This way the bytul rubber rope caulk will form to the siding profile and completely seal. As you tighten up the inside trim ring with the screws you should do it in an even fashion letting the bytle caulk squeeze out and conform to the outside/ around the window frame. Use a plastic scraper to remove the excess squeezed out so it won't scratch the siding. Caulk only the top of the window afterwards and that's all you should do except wait for the warmth to gradually squeeze out more of the bytle caulk around the window before caulking.

I went out and studied my windows a bit closer. There is a black plastic channel the sliding glass rides on. I thought it was some fuzzy type of weather striping you commonly see but, it's just a black plastic channel inserted down inside the bottom window frame channel. It fits snug to the aluminum and covers the weep holes as if it would stop the water from being able to drain. Mine should be having the same problem of overflowing water inside until I dremel the plastic too. My windows must not be leaking and I know the weep holes are for letting out condensation onlyThis is amazing since I always assumed the weep holes were also drilled thru the plastic insert and not blocking the water. I'm going to need to drill the plastic too I guess.Russ, I don't think you should be having so much problem... The guy working on your rv should be taking out the windows and resetting them in the butyle rubber tape. It's not hard. I have done two of mine so far.... just use the blue tape to hold them from falling when you unscrew the trim/ retainer ring inside. I'm convinced yours should not be leaking this much and the little vynle siding J channels used for gutters are going to have little effect on solving your problem. I don't think you should have this same guy fix your rv again.I'm very sorry this happened to you but, I think your rv guy is just 'band aiding' your work instead of what needs to be done.Darn I wish you were close... I'd pull those windows in no time and have them reset for no charge. It's very easy to do.

Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. That's amazing. So clean the pin and relube with a light film of grease and check the diaphragm. Take note of its orientation with the mark.

Thank you for the pic and explanation. What I'm hearing from you guys, if Iam careful, I will be able to open this cap and see right away what to look for.Thanks again.

To me guaranteed is knowing how to get it right the first time. I told the rv manufacturer about my problems with leaks on a brand new rig. I went in for one repair. After that I said no more, thank you anyways. I did it myself after that.

Wish you were close.... I'd run over and take a good look . There are ways many rv guys don't know about that I learned working in a boat yard. I have sealed many leaks on friends rv's and boats with never a problem. I usually go to the extreme, like cleaning the area to be caulked with white rags andsafe solvents till the rag shows no more dirt can be removed before caulking. Sealing between the mating surfaces of the parts (i.e. between skylight and rubber roof membrane and then seal the outside too after the lite is mounted.Man... I wish I could help.

Thank you on that........work always goes better with the better tools.

Yep, Good guys around here as long as you don't listen too much of my stuff, a Cummins owner since 96, still I'm a greenhorn

I would stay away from something that gives nothing but vague answers . IMO I would stay with the known good stuff and 2 stroke oil. Maybe others won't fall for it either and they'll stop selling it. Sounds like another sales pitch is all.

Ah yes a Dremel. That would be something for me for Christmas. I've been doing too many things the hard way it seems.I will take a closer look at my windows this weekend and report back. It seems mine drain out all the slots, even below the fixed glass panel.

Flagmanruss, I think you need bigger holes drilled for sure. I drill mine at an angle after started straight to help the draining. I have used a regular drill bit pushed sideways to make a bigger horizontal slot. It takes time so as to not break the bit and the direction of side pressure on the drill can be a bit awkward. After a while you can get a hold on it.

Thanks to guys....The trucks starts easily on cold mornings without the grid heaters and block heater not plugged in. A little rough for a moment or two but always smooths out nicely. It has new air and fuel filters. Lift pump has about 20,000 miles on it but a small very slight leak nearby. Been working on that one... just always a bit wet but, with no drips on the ground.How do I check and where is the AFC diaphram and fuel pin??Oh yeah... a couple times on warmer days it came alive but only happened about 3 times a year ago. Now it never does unless it's cold outside it runs great then.

In the summer I'll use a small squirt gun to fill up those channels and then use a piece of tie wire to clear out the drains. This seems to wash and clear them out pretty well. It looks to me we got the same kind of windows. Makes me wonder why yours would be overwhelmed with water when I live in the NW soggy country. I only had a leak one time when algae grew into those drains. Once scrubbed it was no problemMy sliding window glass is against that fuzzy type weather striping on both sides, but, otherwise rest and slide on the bottom.

When ambient temps are around 30 my 92 just comes alive with power. It's amazing .Most other times it's a real slow dog. What could be wrong? There's no intake leaks either.It's gotten so bad on warm days I have to wait till traffic's clear for a whole mile otherwise it's like cuttin' in front of someone:duh:

Those windows are designed so that any water that gets inside the window frame channel can drain out thru the small weep holes at the bottom. Owners are supposed to clean those weep holes each year to make sure the water does not overflow inside.Any leak coming in outside the frame channel is a window leak for sure and will rot the wood frame structure around it. I found two smaller windows on my RV that did not have the weep holes so I drilled my own. Wow, I was amazed how much water wanted outAre you sure the weep holes are draining like they should?BTW, thanks for the pics I hope you didn't loose fingers from frost bite