CUMMINSDIESELPWR

most of the time the spring retainer in double lip seals goes toward the wet side. so in this case the spring should be towards the front. is it possible the steering pump is weeping making it look like the vacuum pump?

a lil tip, when removing the pushrods, there are a couple plastic plugs under the cab lip that you remove to lift the pushrods up and into then pull them out. they need to come out for the head to remove.

so is the vacuum pump leaking? if so did you replace the seal that the pwr steer pump inserts into? and did you push it in as far as it needs to go?

yes it was scored on 2 main journals, very very shallow gouges and if i didnt look close i would have missed them, but they polished out perfectly.

looks like my bearings when i rebuilt last year. something got in it and from now on i check the filter inside as something may have dropped in it, i dunno...

when my fan went for the AC no amount of cleaning made it better. it was gummed up with dust dirt hair cat poop who knows. just replace it and be good

those gasket sets will do fine i think i pieced mine a bit differently

bout $1000 or a little under for the lower gasket set, timing cover gasket, head gasket, valve cover gasket and misc gaskets. i got mine from pure diesel power all genuine cummins

i got cummins genuine gasket kit top end and bottom end, not cheap but worth it. has some extra parts for marine engines

run something through each cooler jet to ensure they are free from debris!!!

nice work on the turbo!

i dont think that engine stand is beefy enough... might not hold the cummins.... (insert laughter)

those diff covers are known as Clear Gearz.

Notice he has a bad leak dripping... but this gives an idea of whats going on in a diff... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwYW1lzKWcE

i stand corrected, but he still gets a separated reading

ouch

one reads the front 3 cylinders and the other reads the rear 3.

when i replaced the seals on my axle, i cleaned the bearings in gas, let them dry then let them sit in a small bowl filled with diff lube and placed them back in wet. i didnt have any problems.

when i rebuild my spare turbo ill do a write up on it and vid. all looks good man, if i was still in colorado id be there helping ya

nice!

i would see this and then some with my old raptor 150.... hated it now with the fuel boss its stable all the way and only increases with throttle

why pull the engine and not inspect everything, pull the pistons and inspect the rings and bearing, dont halfway it and end up putting it back in just to have the issue still there then pull it out and find its something you could have fixed the first time. I say this as i almost made this mistake last year when rebuilding mine. I though i could get away with pulling #6 in the frame and honing the hell out of it, but im glad i did a full rebuild as i wouldnt have seen the damage done to all bearings and the fact that honing wouldnt have fixed the scoring. do it fully right the first time!

if you got a fuel boss, there seriously wouldnt be a need for the airdog, unless im missing something. the fuel boss sits under the engine front damper. Mechanical pump in my eyes will always surpass an electrical. One nice advantage is when the rpm increases so does the psi so there is no WOT psi loss as you would see otherwise. and yes i know some dont see a psi drop with electrics, i just like the fact that i dont have to worry about wires shorting or fuses blowing or motors burning out or valves going bad etc etc.

if you are looking for a lift pump, i highly recommend a fuel boss. similar price and wont fail like an electric can.

i didnt see an oring on the back of the block for the cam bore when i rebuilt, it has a freeze plug sealing it up