CUMMINSDIESELPWR

initial driving/sitting heat load test is stable at appx 185-190[ATTACH]5937[/ATTACH]

ok so i have a resolution to my issue.i drained the radiator to not lose anything and popped the housing off.this is what i found.[ATTACH]5932[/ATTACH]and i pulled the tstat out and inspected it and found this[ATTACH]5933[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5934[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5935[/ATTACH]this tstat was original at 196,500 miles and the rubber seals had degraded and disintegrated allowing coolant to flow at any time thus rendering the engine cold. it had also locked closed so i was lucky.good news is i have no scaling in the block and its clean as a whistle.[ATTACH]5936[/ATTACH]after install of new 190 tstat i blocked radiator and worked air out of system and it hit 190 on the gauge quick and it opened up and the top hose got nice and hot. work good last long time!ill give a update in a week to inform if all is still good.

waky waky at 0-dark:30

ill try this

glad yer doin good mike!

18ft-lb per manual but i will tighten enough to seal. good point on antiseize. i picked up a 190 from advance, napa didnt have one...

yeah ill do that and get bolts in case one snaps from corrosion

yup ill order oem stuff monday and fix it this week

so drivin down i25 @75mph with ac blowin cold outside temp 99F. temp gauge showed a bit higher than ive ever seen about 210. no problems, coolant is good never had a problem with overheating or over cooling till now. i wasnt hauling anything either. Now the issue i think is the tstat is stuck open allowing over cooling. barely will hit 170 in 99f heat with ac runnin doing 65. the fan is working fine, blowing strong but not locked. so i am gonna order a new 195f tstat and bolts then swap this week. thoughts?

have fun!

i have been wanting to do pikes peak in the rig, ill take a weekend and do it this summer

my question, how did the TC grenade on ya?

ive been following this too dorkweed, i carry an FNS-9 here in colorado open/conceal. but like you said its the start and wont be the end. congrats on an intelligent win for your state buddy!!!!

yeah, still got a light drip. im gonna redo the orings and banjo washers soon when my back aint hurtin

so real funny thing... after retightening #1 the truck has been starting fine for a full day now, cold, hot, heat soaked, like it never happened...

hope a solution is found!

cold start was long, hot start after sitting hot was long, but after it started an immediate restart was fine. im thinking the fuel leak was back draining fuel and sucking air into something.

well i loosened and retightened #1, checked 3,4,5 tightness they werent loose.i went to start this afternoon and it started normal, drove 30 miles and parked for an hour then started fine...WTH???? ill wait for it to act up again to do something. ill post up findings.

there are no new brand new pumps anymore, only different levels of rebuilt pumps. just fyi

so 40 minutes of parked heat soak nose down and it started almost normal had a couple rotations more than normal but im sure its not the vp as the issue.time to remove injector lines and clean them and tubes, replace orings and see what happens next!

so parked tge truck this mornin, tightened #1 line and left it.woke up in the afternoon, went to start cold engine and started normal.i am now having lunch, parked hot truck nose down same place as yesterday and will see how it starts hot.if it starts normal while hot the vp is fine, if not i may need to replace it.i did pick up 6 orings and a pair of sealing washers for the banjo on back of head just in case

larry b's are heavy duty contacts

So i was done with work and looked under the truck, sure enough a small puddle was there. it started long and drove home no issues.backed into the driveway (nose down) got under it and saw raw fuel slowly building to a drip. the head was wet, return line and "T" were dry. so looked on top of the head and sure enough from cyl 1 and back was wet. i checked tightness of everything and all checked out but i suspect the orings need replaced and possibly the connector tubes.luckily i got a cummins specialist within a couple miles and he has orings. ill knock it out this week and report back with findings.

it will take a month to save up. until then ill drive it till it fails screw it lol. I have a cruiser to get me back and forth to work. but yes i think its a problem with a seal washer somewhere on the return line or the "T" on the return line (its original), i am seeing the usual drip spot that led me to long starts before.

I would be fine with everything but the electronics. Wiring harness probably ok with some cleaning. I would tear everything apart asap and get the water out so as not to have rust start forming. i wouldnt turn it over either until all fluids have been replaced and cylidnders drained and dried (head off). tranny fluid would need to be flushed a couple times, front diff fluid replaced.