Great work!

The lines expand and pump components deflect under the high pressure which creates delays, then there's line propagation for the pulse to reach the injector. Delivery valves help keep some residual pressure in the system. The pump cam is curved not squared off so fuel delivery is non linear. The first few degrees of injection is only a small amount then increases with every degree as the cam profile becomes more aggressive. Bigger injectors get more fuel in quicker and earlier. Big shots of late fuel tend to cause high EGT and smoke.

Take a look at the wires on the back of the vp44 that go down to the bottom solenoid. You may have to slide the cloth sheath up some. The wire insulation likes to get old and crumble away. Use your fancy Snap on bore scope.

The ECM and pump exchange timing information. Desired vs actual and error. It takes a lot of error over a certain length of time for the ECM to fire off a DTC code. When ever there is a timing error over a certain amount the ECM will limit fuel until the Actual timing is reasonable. Same with boost oil pressure Engine temperature etc. The ECM backs off to prevent damage. Something could be border line or intermittent to cause de fueling but not throw a code. Does the quad ever report full fuel or 100% load?

The newest parts store types use a contactless magnetic position sensor for the TPS. Pros no moving wiper on resistor to wear out. Cons more electronics to go bad or be affected by an already electrically noisy environment.

Are you completely 100% sure that there is no crud around the injector nozzles or in the injector holes? You might want to clean out the bore and holes with some small bore brushes and pipe cleaners and brake clean. Make sure there are no extra copper washers in there. Try using new washers too. Could be injectors are not sealing against the head or the nozzles are not deep enough or some crud is messing with the spray pattern in the head or pistons Run it with intake horn removed and listen closely you will hear any leaking intake valves it will have an inconsistent tone. Finally just run it like you are mad at it that's what Cummins are made for.

Hmm. Upgraded governor support? No governor in 47re. Sonnax valve body with transgo recall kit? The sonnex is already an improved valve body. Why both? The diesel tranny already has the heavy duty planetary gears. Is overdrive clutch going to have the extra disc kit installed? Some torque converters are a rebuilt dodge modified with a power stroke lock up clutch better than stock not as strong as triple disc but much less $. You might want to ask more questions and shop around.

Unplug any adapters or "y" on the map sensor and plug it straight into the factory connector. Disconnect any fuel tap wire or stealth unit on the vp also.

Did you wipe the cam out? Watch the rocker arms while it's running look for any low lifting ones. And try a temporary mechanical boost gauge all those tuners fool with the boost. I found walnuts in intake ports on a small block Chevy before lol.

Check for air restriction. Start with air filter and intake then intercooler, grid heaters and manifold. Sometimes during rebuilds rags get shoved in places to keep things out and get left behind.

I was only planning 4 to eight boost table entries. So your saying i need more maybe every 2 psi up to 36 ish.

Well my ECU finally died so its been slow. I run it hot wired now so it only idles. Timing control is done but the injection solenoid is tricky, it has to have the right recipe of pull in current, holding current and a dead period just before the valve seats. The plunger valve will bounce like a hammer on an anvil and that makes it have a hazy smoke and run rough. The secret recipe has to be adaptive because it changes with battery voltage and fuel duration. Still working it all out. Skipping the CAN bus for now. I just run the TPS MAP and crank sensor into my controller.

Try putting some clear hose in the fuel supply line and loop it up to the windshield so you can watch for air bubbles.

It will be like Cuba. Old cars and trucks like the 12 valve cummins still going as long as people can cobble parts together then only new green vehicles with nothing left in between. ECMs are going extinct for our trucks and many other vehicles. Switching to electric vehicles is low hanging fruit there are many much more difficult things that have to be addressed to lower CO2.

Yes so long as the front cover is not un bolted and removed. There is not enough room in there for it to un mesh with the other gears. A mirror will help.

Check all the exhaust and turbo flanges bolts and nuts are tight. Check the fan water pump alternator bearings for noise or wobble with the belt off.

Have you tried cracking loose the injection lines one at a time? Is it one cylinder or all of them causing the smoke.

Air hose about 20 psi and soapy water or you can add dye to the fuel kind of late now for that. Could have a cracked head but very rare.

You did an admirable job testing. Most mechanics would've starting throwing expensive parts at it from the beginning.

A couple months. I'm on my 3rd generation now, lots of power dissapation, heat issues doing it the Bosch way that's why PSG is on the pump for fuel cooling. Trying switching regulators now but they generate a lot of electrical noise and mask some very weak signals I need. Plus my AC evaporator sprang a leak so it's just too hot to sit in the truck messing with it. We need and ecu alternative to keep these trucks alive they are discontinued.

Because the bus is active and talking those voltages fluctuate. During a very long idle state which is very unlikely the voltages will settle.

That's right. One more thing make sure all the connectors on the back of the fuse block in the dash are seated good.

Disconnect all optional modules one of them may be corrupting the bus and leave them off. If problem persists then stress ECM with freeze spray or ice. Then heat with hot air. Repeat. Watch display as heated or cooled. This can help rule out or rule in ECM. Intermittent problems need more than continuity checks and without known good parts to swap stressing is the only option.

Check and clean C3 connector on PCM and the two connectors near center of firewall by vacuum tee. Also two splices above AC accumulator in the harness. Have a helper watch dash while flexing and wiggling connectors and wiring.

Those larger fuses in the pdc can go bad intermittently look very closely with a light and jiggle the fuse. Beyond that you need constant battery at the red/white wires on the ECM and switched power on the green/black wire, comes from fuse in dash. Don't forget ground. Always clean and reconnect battery terminals always no matter what.

https://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/universal-sway-bar-bushings.asp This might help it has dimensions