Doubletrouble

Is that fresh cut timber or dead fall? Looks pretty green in the pic. I need to get out and do the same soon.

I have no brace, stock tire size and had no issues. Did have to replace right ball joints at about 180k miles. Have replaced all of the tie rods and front shocks. I was chasing a death wobble problem, it went away after the ball joint replacement.

Also once she is up and running again add 2cycle oil to your fuel. It will help lubricate the vp44 pump. Very important.

Did the abs/brake light come on after you swapped the ecm? If so it could be that the ecm your using now doesn't have the proper tire size and gear ratio programmed in it. Mine did this when I first bought the truck, a buddy has the snap on fancy scanner and was able to change these settings. Been fine ever since.

I like going to salvage yards like that just to look around.

Thanks for the info! @Mopar1973Man, how long til you "test" one of these?? Lol

@dieselautopower, Jacob, I received an email outlining you new line of turbos, just wondering if you could give us here some more in depth info on these. Any tests done? What were the results? So on.... thanks!

I could think of a couple more but not so PG rated lol

No video that I know of, just a detailed article. W-T mod is not difficult, just take you time. As you go through doing it you'll see the issues first hand why it needs to be done.

It seems to work well. The lowest the egt will go is 200° so it starts there. The fuel pressure shows 19-20psi at idle, driving diwn the road at various speeds it levels out about 17psi, ful throttle acceleration it'll drop to 14psi. Boost reads fairly accurate by my estimations. It tops out at 20psi which makes sense, I do not have a fooler or elbow to increase boost, stll factory setting. The LCD display actually reads better than in the pic. I don't know if it's the refresh rate or what but it shows a constant reading to the naked eye.

So I was finally able to make the time to install my 3 in 1 gauges from gloshift. Before you hate on gloshift, this was a gift from my daughter for Christmas. Took a little while to get it done, it was rather warm today (89°F / real feel was 95°F). I did get it finished though. I mounted the gauge in the supplied pod above the instrument cluster for easy viewing. The needle shows boost, in the small LCD screen is displays the exhaust gas temp and the fuel pressure.

I've had ceramic clutches in OTR trucks in the past, personally I don't care for them. I don't like how they are basically all or nothing.

I recently rebuilt my trans and replaced the clutch, I went with a south bend heavy duty towing clutch. It's organic so you don't get the grabby feel of the ceramic, it's very smooth and holds very well. I believe the rating on mine was around 475hp and 900lbft torque. So far I like it, very well mannered when towing and daily driving. I don't do burnouts and such with my truck so I can't speak to that side of it.

So at 80mph tour at 22.74 mpg? Wow

Coolant Temps aren't surprising. The cooling system on these trucks us very efficient when working properly.

Finally have pics of the auxilary tank for those of you that are interested. I need to clean it up, maybe polish it and make it shine again. Then test it for leaks. I was told it does have a small leak on the driver's side (as the tank is installed) so I'll have to look into that.

I'm considering the gravity feed as well. Not sure which way I want to go just yet. It would be cool to just flip a switch and start transferring fuel. On the other hand, gravity feed is a pretty simple setup, no worries about a pump failure.

I'll check out transferflow, thanks! A friend of mine had an inline pump on his. He did forget to cut it off once. But only once. He had fuel coming out of the filler cap and down the side of the truck.

So I came across a deal on a 90 gallon L shaped auxilary fuel tank to mount in the bed of the truck. It's used but still good. I have never had one nor mounted one in a truck. I was wondering if someone on here has had one and mounted it. Any tips on how to do so? Also, if you have one are you gravity feeding it to the main tank or did you install an inline fuel pump? I have a small inline pump on the shelf and was thinking about using it with this tank to fill the main tank with a flip of a switch. Thoughts?? I'll be getting the tank sometime over the weekend so I'll post up pics once I have it. Thanks for any input.

Great write up @Mopar1973Man, I to noticed a difference over the winter in regards to the intake air Temps. Once I installed my winter front my IAT came up considerably and she ran better, better mpg's and a bit better heat from the vents as well as faster initial warm up. I am still running the stock 190° thermostat and noticed these differences with no tuner.

New alternator is now installed. She's alive!!! Removed the old one and spun the pulley and the bearings seem nice and smooth. Had a conversation with @Mopar1973Manyesterday, I think I will rebuild the original with new brushes and regulator, clean it up and stock it on the shelf for a spare. Never hurts to have apare parts!

Not really, I'd have to drive 1/2 hour to get to a test bench. New one should be here today.

Ugh, I'll be honest. I didn't check any of that and I never got the pcm protect fuse installed. I know the alternator was only putting out 12.5 volts, if that was output. It could have been battery voltage. No 14v present so I ordered up an alternator. The truck is my daily and need it back. At the moment I'm stuck using my dad's mustang. Talk about 10lbs of taters in a 5lbs bag! Man those cars are small!

Fired up the truck this morning to go to the tire shop for 4 new tires on the rear axle, got 1 mile down the road and the "check gauges" light lit up. Voltage low on instrument cluster. Thought maybe the 150amp breaker tripped in the charge lead. Nope, it was fine. Turned around and went back home. Pit a voltage meter to the stud on the back of the alternator and she read 12.8v. I guess it's time. Ugh!!! If it isn't one thing it's another!