flagmanruss

Yes, Mac's was the bed rails I was looking at, too. - - - Updated - - - I installed the first of these retractable tie down hooks. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I REALLY like them. They don't come with instructions but they install easily. Loosen the screws... the retainer can't drop off because the bottom of the tie down captures it. Rock it into place & tighten the screws. I was thinking of adding a drop of blue locktite on the screw threads in advance so it would not back out but still be removeable. Yes, you can remove & reinstall these. These grip the top of the bed side so one need not remove all of clunky old tie downs. I'm still trying to get the rubber blocks out of the stake pockets (OCD)... to replace the rest.

We ran into a problem on our return leg last year. I'm convinced it is/was a tongue weight issue. We have & are using a weight distributing hitch but we are at maximum. A Toy Hauler anticipates heavy "toys" stored in the bay. We just have my mobility scooter which weight 335#. It was gutted out & what has been added back is probably lighter than original. We towed just fine outbound. Return, was white knuckle all the way. What changed was we used about all the 100 gallons of water centered over the axles. We watered the farmer's field where we were with the grey water before we pulled out (50 gallons). So furthest forward is the 50 gallon black water tank. So the weight shift is 834# off the axles... not sure the weight of mixed yuck in the black water but the capacity is 50 gal. I'm just winging it but the magnitude of the problem is 400# on the tongue. As much as we hate to add weight, I'm planning to add bars of weight to the rear of the cargo bay. I was thinking to add 200# split 50/50 each side. I have done this in the past with a stock trailer (no WDHitch). I guess it's an experiment. If this works, I'd like to build in under floor storage to accept the ballast.We'll know more when we get back.

My DD is the Cirrus & the caliper bolts turned out to be a metric socket from the inside. I did the passenger side first & the first assembly, the bolts went right in by fingers but the swept area of the pads hit the old rust edge. The 11" disc won't fit on my lathe & I was unsure of my ability to remove the rust bump with a hand grinder so I went to the local NAPA & bought discs $22.xx each so I'm still under a bill for the brakes. The caliper bolts fought me the second re-assembly. I pulled them out & they didn't appear to be cross threaded. We'll find out next time!The driver side the caliper bolts HAD already been replaced/rethreaded. Slid right together. I drove the car yesterday. It stops like it should, the squeal is gone. YES!!I'm trying to decide it I want to monkey with the old discs or scrap them. It poured rain as I was heading back to the car from shopping. It was raining more than I liked before the BOOM & flash of LIGHT! I was about half way to the car in the HC space... I got rather drenched before I could get my weak leg in the door (reverse cane & use the cane to hook under foot & lift in) finally closed. I retrained from dancing in the rain singing "Missed Me!" Might have been a tad risky!So the driver's side wiper proceeded to come apart. I interrupted the brakes to install new wipers on the truck... from a step ladder. (The old blades on the truck just did not want to release... but they were coming off even if I had to use an act of violence.) I have spare blades for the Cirrus... almost new, when I removed to put winter wipers on. So I'll slide them on today.

I added a pair of bronze (marine) strap eyes with big self tapping strews through the top of the rail as far forward as I could get them. They'll pass a 1/2" rope, a ratchet strap or a few bungies. Like these: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=63333&familyName=Sea-Dog+Pad+Eye+-+Forged I added a pair of smaller SS strap eyes (marine) with self drill/self tap Motorola screws low on the rear inside the tail gate. They are in constant use to prevent things from walking forward. I am in the process of replacing my stake pocket hooks with retractable ones. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2NO8PC/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (set of 6 for that price) Getting those old rubber blocks out of the stake pockets is easier said than done! Several years ago, I cleaned the rear 2 tie downs out of the rear pockets on an extreme hill with a curve... with the gooseneck... bent the eye right over, denting the top of the rail. I really wanted to put a perforated rail inside each side... but the prices scared me off. I have seen the rail systems but I am not sold on them yet. I don't like how the removeable eye anchors stick out.

I grabbed another gallon at Wally World today. Only one left so indeed the inventory is low. Everybody getting their boats ready for Spring.

I decided to go with O'Riellys ceramic pads. I like their site & gave a wide selection in an understandable fashon & I have no love lost for local sources. It seems that the local mechanics slap on new discs whether they need them or not... and can't find them when I specifically asked for them back. I'm not sure what size socket I need to get the caliper studs off on the Cirrus. A friend of mine got into it with a local shop (I wont go back there)... every time they touch his brakes, it's $250. He asked the owner why & got the flippant answer "Because I can".Anyrate, it I need a socket, I'll get it. I suspect it's a torex & I don't have many of them.

I couldn't recall the exact article... the one I read did not have all the information of the one linked. I never dreamed it would strike so close to home. Russ

My daily driver is squealing with the brakes... I'm really disappointed with the serive life of the pads that my mechanic has been using. Honestly, I don't drive slow but I believe in inticipating my turns & need to stop & prepositioning my vehicle in the corrrect lane... coasting off speed (like getting free gas) before finally using the brakes. It seems like every year I'm replacing brakes & the shop charges are not cheap. So, I'm going to just stick new pads on it myself. But what to get? The prices are all over. I'm out of touch with the better/lesser grades. What to get? Where to get it?Thanks, guys!

I have the factory manual mirrors. I love them but HATE re-adjusting them by myself. So if I unhook at our destination & try to not fold them if we unhook.

I was having vibrations that my (then) mechanic could not find... repeatedly. My new mechanic found a warped rear drum which was replaced & I've been happy ever since.

I might not have gotten enough flex in the rear tabs. I sure wasn't able to completely free the front latching tabs. I'm thinking of trying a heat gun on the rear tabs to encourage the rear to flex to allow the front to be pulled down. Old brittle plastic is not a good situation. Maybe parking the truck in the sun might be a help.

I removed the doors because I was afraid of breaking them off while I tried to pull the console back. Even with the tabs inside the garage door comp released, I wasn't able to get the console to flex down enough to clear. I tried wedges between the console & the headliner without success in moving the console back.

I've got the doors off the overhead console. I can release the front pair of snap latches (pull down with difficulty, not enough to clear the latches). I see the rear tabs, console must move back to clear them. I can't budge it. Give me some help here!! How do I get the comsole free? My display is totally dark. Lights still work!

These belts look to be standard cogged drive belts. What size are they? I have yet to have one fail on my belt driven mobility scooter but sourced spares from PolyTech. www.polybelt.com I found what I needed in their online store at very low prices. The mobility scooter runs the belt quite snug to keep the belt from skipping. Reportedly, once the belt skips failure follows quickly.

My lights still work but the rest of the overhead console went out. I've found the tabs but darned if I can budge the darn thing. (Must be pulled down & back at the same time.)

I only have the gooseneck now... I have a Hidden Hitch. There's a release in the driver's side wheel well & the hitch ball lifts out to store under the back seat. I installed my own from underneath. I ran a pilot drill (I made a bushing to reduce to 1/4") up through the bed & bed liner & then went on top with the right sized hole saw. The one thing I didn't like is the hitch is centered on the rear axle where my mentor prefered it an inch or so forward of axle center line. But it hasn't been a noticeable problem... and if I had, I'd not be able to lower my tailgate. So maybe it's like that for a reason.

I had spring leaves replaced in my C30... old ones were broke right through the center bolt (20 year old truck). Bought new U bolts & just cut the old off with torch. Dodge has few leaves to carry the same load. I think the multileaf set ups ride smoother. My old school mechanic did a lot of them but he was a fabricator. He did a lot of chaisis work for autobody shops locally before sending them back for finishing.

The blond crashed her car into the ditch. No one was hurt. The Trooper arrives on the scene and asks the blond "What happened?"The blond says "I was driving down the road when a tree jumped out in front of my car. I swerved and another tree jumped in front of my car. One after another. So I ended up here."The trooper asks "What kind of tree was it?"She says "A pine tree."The cop pulls the air freshener off the rear view mirror and asks "Did it look like this?"Author unknown

I didn't / don't have a notched tailgate with an 8 foot bed. Hooking up either is a 2 step process. Get the trailer's coupling inside the bed & lined up. Put up the gate & finish backing under. I can drop the gate when coupled... usually it clears the spare tire, sometimes it just barely rubs. I installed an extension harness into the bed side for the trailer plug.

I've had both in my old Chevy 1 ton gasser. In my opinion, I like the gooseneck better because it lets the truck & trailer follow their own terrain where as the 5th wheel transmits the stresses across the hitch to find some compromise. The 5er is fine on improved surfaces. I will point out that on a steep hill with a sharp turn at the top, I cleaned the tied downs out of my rear stake pockets in the bed with some damage... when the trailers actual gooseneck frame closed the more than 12" gap. RVs are built closer to the body assuming the more restrictive 5th wheel movements. To convert to a gooseneck is unwise unless you have a flatbed.

Most controlers get a signal from the brake light circuit (switch on the brake bracket, touches the pedal arm.) Confirm that the truch has brake lights. My truck had a trigger wire installed from the factory, there was a plug by the emergency brake & a harness that came with the truck. Older trucks were not so wired. Make sure how the controler is wired first. Unplug the trailer & test the rear socket with a meter. That said, there are often brake problems with trailers. Sometimes non-standard wired. Sometimes damaged or corroded wiring. The magnets themselves don't like to grab on rusted drums. Did these brakes combo ever work?

I used the OEM fog lights as driving lights to take some hours off the headlight bulbs since I don't have DRL. The result was that the fog lights burned out quickly, were not the easiest to change & the bulbs cost more than I expected. So I stopped the practice. Actually my non-sport headlights are pretty decent... maybe I got lucky... but then my truck had low mileage & lights are sun protected the way I park, nose in. I will probably go sport headlights in the future.Those part numbers listed above show as 2002 sport. Was it first offered in 02? Does the year listed matter?

I'm all for concealed carry... but CC should be so well done that NO ONE ever sees it. I pulled a plain clothes detail... I needed a prepie look... went with a V sweater & tie. I was querried if I was indeed armed. I had a S&W M36 IWB with big banna grips on it... under the sweater. Cuffs, 2 reloads. I think it might be a problem to conceal all day in class... I'd like to see teacher's desks with a lock box in the knee hole. There was a scare on a local college campus yesterday. Campus Police take the full training but are not allowed to carry. State Police & Local PD (where I used to work) responded & eventually determined the call was a misunderstanding. Campus Police were on scene in 1 minute, local PD in 3 minutes, SP in 5 minutes. CP know the buildings best of all, yet were forced to stand down. When seconds count, police are just minutes away. SP are recommending changing state law to arm the Campus Police. It's been like this forever.

The first thing to do is STOP. If you are LOST, continueing in the wrong dirrection is no help. THINK about the right direction. IF you decide to try to walk out, have a plan. Down hill is good. Use SUN for direction is good (even if it means waiting until morning). THINK about when you LAST knew where you were like "on a trail". Try to return to that place. I don't use GPS but am fine if one does. I have used compass at sea and orienteering & that will work too. I've explored trail systems but never cared to not know where I am. I learned the outer trails & then learned the unknown trails within it. Unless one is equipped to go orienteering, they should never leave the known trails.

Thanks, that's good advise... especially on the cheaper units. I'm up to my eyeballs in papers needed to do my taxes... when I get that behind me, I want to just try it in my vehicles.