flagmanruss

I found a thread with the some oversized batteries sizes... Looks like I'm going to be buying again, I'd like to buy the bigger size. My DieHards are group 34... 36 month replacement, 100 month pro-rate (if I'm reading it right). Guess what I bought these in Jan 09. Son of a female doggy!! I'm not sure that the prorate is worth going after. The group 34 was the same size as OEM... but I've always been a believer in putting the biggest battery that'll fit. I measure the battery trays only 12"... but it's hard to do on tip-toes with the trays occupied. I'd like to put in a pr of group 27s... or bigger. What kind of finessing does the battery tray take to put a group 30 or 31 in? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3382-Which-batteries/page2?highlight=battery+group

OK, where's the IOD fuse? I'm wondering if I'll be able to start it to drive it out of here. AAA??

Dead as a doornail. Wifee took it to the dump last. Haven't needed in in 3-4 weeks. Went out to move it, I stuck the key in it & the wait to start didn't come on... nothing. Looked up & the dome lights were out too. We've been down to 15 several days / nights. Surely the batteries have frozen & are junk. I slapped a 6A charger on it, biggest I have... maybe I can heat them up enough to jump start after a few days. I didn't see anything left on... there's not much to leave on. I'll have to look for the paperwork... have a pair of DieHards in it. They should still be in warentee. Dog crap...

I guess I'd be embarassed to tell you what I paid in 01 off the dealer floor.

My overhead was remarkably accurate, compared to hand calculated. Guys refer to them as "Lie-O-Meters" because they are not adjustable if any changes have been made to the truck. Tires, engine mods come first to mind. IAre you running any sort of add on box or chip? My 01, when it was pure stock, never got broke 19... but then I have 4.10 gears. Your transmission is a good one & with the right rear ratio would be expected to get better... but I really doubt those numbers. Hand calulate your next trip & let us know. Is your signature everything on the truck?Russ

I seldom get to zero here... thankfully. I am a fan of plugging it in if I know I'm going to use it on an especially cold morning... but the temp does not register on the guage on start up so still a pretty cold engine. I start her up... watch the oil pressure until it stops climbing. I'll put it in Reverse & back out into the driveway. Put it in park, fasten the seatbelt (easier to turn around to see without belt). Start off, drive easy... it's 5 minutes of local roads to the state highway, frequently I'll begin to show engine temp about then... I'm not stressing anything, just loafing along but at least I'm getting some miles for the fuel. I don't normally tow in cold weather but I have (more with the C30 454) in which case I warmed up until the temperature guage started to move before moving.

My thought is a loose connection / failed connector on the top of the tank. Alternatively, the pickup could have come apart. Can you blow air back into the tank (proving not obstructed but not necessarily eliminating a air leak from connection.

I really don't know what the tongue weight is but my horse trailer, loaded for rendezvous has huge load on the gooseneck. The axles are under the horses... 10 feet of "dressing room" + 7 feet of gooseneck loaded with everything for man & beast for 12 days in rendezvous. I'd be afraid to know what the load was. Plus we carried iron cooking grates, & such in the truckbed, (10) 5 gallon water jugs from home against the headboard, 10 gallons of K1 for the tent heater. But the weight was far enough forward (gooseneck centered over the axle). I'll tell you what, it takes a very determined man on the landing gear crank to lift it off the hitch. I'd say the truck squats a couple of inches under the load (8800 gvw).I think the scariest load was hauling the bumper tow toy hauler back from New Hampshire. The Load distributing hitch was missing the shim pack. So all the weight was on the hitch. I swear the front wheels were barely on the ground! The seller did not impress me with his knowledge. When I got home, I Googled the hitch, got the instructions & added washers on a stud to replace the missing shim assembly. I'm recalling moving pallets of ceramic floor tiles... the truck did squat some but not like this.

Pay attention... I fell for this mistake. If you retain the strainer basket (without enlarging the holes) then the return must also be in the basket. Some installs eliminate the basket entirely. If the pickup is outside the basket then the return can/should be outside the basket. I was cobbling one together from used parts & the mechanic put the pickup in the basket... but I had an old style return to the fill. In low tank conditions (1/4 tank) the 150 can empty the basket while the return is dumping fuel back in the tank. The OEM basket just won't flow enough.

I think the heaviest load I even had in a truck bed was 3 wire bound Canadian bales in my 1/2 ton (not even heavy half) GMC. I didn't think to take a picture. The tirres were at 35 psi & still half to the rims. I had some heavy loads of lead in the bed of my C30 Chevy... for my former bullet casting business. I've had over 100 bales of local hay on my Dodge but they weren't real heavy & I soon added a trailer. This is just the bottom layer, of course. Incidentally, I replaced/relocated the trailer jack, back to the headboard & extended the crank so as to give clearance to the tailgate. I had the V tonge covered with expanded metal. When we unload hay, we do the trailer first then someone stands on the tonge to pull the hay off the truck. So much better this way.

The Fram boxed BHAF I bought off ebay was made for Fram by Donaldson and so maked inside the package...

I have the manual fold out mirrors... no vibration. I know diesels vibrate more but is there another vibration making it worse... like tire balance. I don't know what else can be done... maybe put some stiff foam rubber in the housing to dampen it?

I have a SS 4" FTE swirl resonator right on the down spout (a bit tight over the transmission brkt & straight through "muffler", oversize tip. Nice sound & it d@mn well better not rust out like the stocker. It's been on 3 years.

Me too. Liked the high notes & low notes...

The vacume pump can pressurize the crank case due to a failed seal... others already suggested that this is unlikely because of the puffing out the vent which you describe. The Vacume pump / PS assembly are gear driven on the driver's side. There's no way for the turbo to pressurize the crankcase.

The blocks were not used in any order... my 01.5 has a 56 block but they are all over the place. There were changes in the electronics.

If it throws no heat... and core not plugged, then blend door / actuator. PITA to get to but could well be just the coupler. Located over the passengers footwell. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4612-Before-you-replace-a-non-functioning-blender-door-motor-actuator!!!!?highlight=heater+treater http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3560-Damm-Dodge-Diverter-door!?highlight=heater+treater If it blows on defrost (default mode) then the vacume control on top of heater box is defective. Dash has to come out to get to, to right of Go pedal on top of heater. My nephew was able to put fingers on mine but it went back as soon as I started up. I'd like to know how to wire it in place sometimes.

Will everything from the 01 bolt up to the newer block?

Before my brother got into real trains... he expanded on the set we'd had as kids, until it took up his whole basement. Unfortunately he never figured moving into the plans. He's built triangular brackets off the wall studs & screwed the top down into the them. When he went to move, the screws were under layers of scenery & filler. His next layout was built in bolted together sections.

I had a front hitch on a little Datsun pickup I had & then on the '80 Dodge (slant 6, std) boatyard company pickup. It is much better to maneuver trailers on the front of the truck. Often those who trailer / launch small boats will do so.

My 01.5 has the towing pkg & came with the flip out (manual only) towing mirrors, no heat though. The tow position on the mirrors is not all that great & requites a PITA re-adjustment (manual) of the aim. Every tow season, I have to re-learn the wifee how to re-aim... by the end of the season, she's got it. A shame they could not figure out how to do the power mirrors in both positions. I'd buy a strap on (Oh, My!!) that would fit over the factory tow mirrors so I didn't have to do the re-aim, which is an all day project for me alone (because I have so much trouble getting in & out). Russ

I googled it & came up with air blocking the heater core... at RPM the water gets forced by it. There is TSB on bleeding the air: http://www.justanswer.com/car/12e0j-i-m-having-problem-2003-nissan-altima-heat.html It might well be the radiator cap return gasket is shot so it is drawing air allowing this to happen. I went nuts with dear daughter's Pontiac Sunbird that had a system that had to be purged.

I ran quite a while with the tailpipe off... sooted the whole underneath. And was stock at the time.

Now, what you do is get some SS pot scrubber (SS steel wool). From under the hood, pack it in behind the hood hinges... so it covers the cowel drains... hidden behind the hinges. That's how mice get into the heater. It's not enough to keep water from draining & I've been out in some real down-pours.Voice of experience...