flagmanruss

Forget the body armor, use the nut protector (& I don't mean a wrench).

Well, at 240* the fan should have been roaring... I think defective clutch is a safe bet. I'm reading that aftermarket fan clutches don't seem to stand up well long term. Having said this, I'm sure I'll hear from some NAPA Lover next.

Thanks, I've never tried it!

That's really neat... learn something new every day! However, the largest offered is a 20#.

W-H-A-T ?? Does that have windows in it? Are you pulling my leg? I don't want to be the butt of one of your jokes...

We discovered before we left that one tank we were using was almost empty & the one we thought was "full" was completely empty. I had a inline gauge (old style fittings) but it really was not useful. I recall seeing stick on magnetic gauges... not sure if they work. I'm not comfortable with the blind "switch over when it runs out" plan.

The 1000 generator is very easy to overfill... only holds .55 gallons. I'm thinking of a quart measure to transfer to so to avoid spillage in the future.

Thanks, Mike, I'll get on it.

How do I check the fan clutch?The only other experience with marginal cooling was when I towed my old horse trailer with a GMC 1/2 ton 305 cid... the temp would rise on every grade & come down on the down grade. I replaced the fan with a solid drive flex fan which was a big help. I only see electric fans for the Cummins... Your thoughts on different fans?

This is our annual re-enactor's Rendezvous. Because of my disability, we have decided to just set up a primitive "day camp" but it is safer for me to sleep in a camper in the parking lot. The camp was winding down... a lot of folks left after the weekend & more bugged out when they got word of a storm coming. Probably down to a couple of hundred from ~500. After those going home had left, we pulled the truck into the primitive camp area & our neighbors helped us get out canvas tents down & into the vehicles safely. We were in the camper when wave after wave of squalls hit us. We had hail twice... about the size of small marbles. Our camp neighbor was on 15 minutes from home & took some things home & was hit by hail as big as tenis balls & their van was pummeled. We listened to the radio reports & the tornadoes were all arround us... somehome skirted us. Started West of us & passed South of us. Sheila drove out in her Subaru to be sure we had a clear road before we pulled out. We stopped for a McLunch before we got on the Mass Pike (I 90)... could not get near the place... I went into a market lot next door & did a T with a back up & sat on the end of a row while she made a food run. They were using the site as a staging area for out-of-state utility workers. While were there, 7 tree service trucks arrived from New Hampshire. We ate our food & got on the road. It was a gusty, blustery ride home... plus trailer trucks tending to suck me over as they come up. This rig is not fun to drive...

The little Honda was a bit difficult to start on arrival... but once we had run it... it started first pull, no choke. It barely sipped gas, we took way too much with us. I'm going to get a smaller gas can to make fueling easier. I was able to run the Norcold Refridge (direct cord under the trailer) on it until I figured out how to light the propane. Most of the time, there is no other generators running but this year there was an ice machine in the lot with a large Honda generator which they ran during the day. I ran mine at the same time and was able to charge the scooter batteries and the bank of 3 RV batteries in the camper, very nicely. One must be very aware of loads as it is only 8 amp, but it does exactly what I bought it for. Very satisfied.

Just returned from our first camping trip of the year... first tow with the Quadzilla XZT+ (2000 tune). I don’t know if the XZT has any effect on the engine temperature. I am used to to running (empty) right on the thermostat, a needle width below the center mark (200 degrees). Towing, I previously ran about a needle width above that center mark. I saw the temp climb to 2 needle widths above on grades... but came down coasting / light throttle on the other side. So we arrived at the parking field, shifted to 4 high & were directed to the best spot. They wanted me to circle outside & “drive through” next to another vehicle which I did... but I could not get close enough. I was surprised to notice the temperature climbing to 220. I needed a couple of passes back & forth put the trailer in the right place. Just as I completed the last push back, the temp hit 240 & the RED warning light came on “Check Gauges”. I was in place, so I left the truck running & popped the hood to let the heat out while we set the jacks. The temp dropped to the thermostat level before I shut it off. I had checked all tire pressures before we left. I checked the belt, all fluids were ok. The ground was spongy... with the sod squishing 3” or so. I was gentle as possible with my stock Michelin tires. I didn’t see any breakthroughs though others mucked up other areas pretty good. We had extreem weather during our stay (a bucket in the truck bed was half full) and the ground was worse pulling out. The property owner had a tracked Bobcat on site & several vehicles had to be extracted. There was not a row in front of us initially, but later there was. When the vehicle between the trailer & the exit moved, I quickly got my truck into it. We were able to make the exit in one pass... I was gentle on the throttle but didn’t want to stop... I watched the temps even more carefully on the way home & it was as before... I’d say 200-205. My impression is that the cooling is marginal & that makes me uneasy. I’m planning a thermostat replacement & coolant flush... I know you guys have more experience than me... Ideas?

I am a bit lost... my last one (back before the dawn of time) had a pilot light! The fridge works fine on AC. Refused to start on propane. Gives a 'F' code (as in U R F-ed). I was able to "fire it up" with a grill lighter... and it kept cold for 24-48 hours. Once I saw a C before the F codes. When trying to start on propane I can hear a clicking at the back in the access hatch. Does anybody know these units?

Found mouse evidence in the toy hauler on our camping trip... returning to the search for holes, steel wool in hand.

It is good to have others who are willing to put their pride asside (when others might be inclined to hush up) & tell of their MISADVENTURES as well as their successes! Thanks Mike!

Rained hard here overnight. Remnants of the storms that caused so much heartbreak & damage further West... I had used "black sticky" electrical tape on the top of this E. Exit window & over the corners to try to bridge the hinge & joint as I've not been able (in the midst of packing for camp) to hunt down a drip rail. Any water that got in now has a clear exit drain. Sheila went out this morning, fingers crossed that the bed we just dried would still be. It was!! No sign of ANY water infultration in the gutter... even better. Only a temp fix, but at least we are up & running.

The truck has been running good as I get ready to go camping. I topped the tank today... hand calc running empty is 17.5... lie-o-meter is 17.1 right now. I am running the IAT Foolern (143*) after 1 minute warm up... I've not had a chance to make up the multi-position switch & install it before this trip). This is not bad for this 4.10 geared truck. I have the XZT+ loaded with the 2000 tune but have been running it on the +15 hp setting as I'm empty & don't need the power. I can feel the modest improvement can easier pull a grade without down shifting & accidentally chirping the tires on a launch to get out into traffic. I'm liking this choice. When I hook up, I'll go to the power setting & see how it pulls under load.

Dave, No way... 30 mpg working the truck. He must be going by the lie-o-meter! (Overhead display is not adjustable if you run a box... it throws it off.) BTW, these trucks really should have had more gauges with the diesel option... pushing the limit (by adding a box) with no gauges is nuts. Running a truck "with just a box" and no supporting mods does not get the performance as well as not safe for the motor. But people do what they want with their own equipment. I would not.

Sheila says it's called Hydroponics... and I can't get her to take a picture yet. She said it is her first time trying it & wants to be sure it works for her. I hope I have not jinxed us. Maybe when we get back from camp.

She tried something new... and I have to say I'm impressed. I had bought some 3M abrasive pads at a Job Lot place... of course she couldn't use a worn out one! LOL! So she fits it to a plastic container & soaks it with water & puts seed peas on it. We like pea greens in salads (gotta have my rabbit food!) So these things took off, sitting on the kitchen window ledge. They are up about 4" in about a week. I'm not a gardener, but I'm really impressed with this...Russ

Just a thought... What are your actual engine temperatures? What if the sensors are right but the thermostat is stuck open? That would make the engine run cold. I don't know if it would be enough to cause the grid heaters to run.

My 68 RoadRunner was stolen from a local mall around 1970. It was recovered with engine damage & body scratches and the punks who stole it arrested. Probably got a slap on the wrist. The dash lock was missing. The cop showed me they kids had a junkyard switch hot wired & a lead to touch the starter. Almost as fast to start that way as with the key. When I street parked in Boston, I left the wires hanging & took the dash lock in with me... impossible to keep folks out even with smooth door knobs... and they always hummed my lock. I grew tired of supporting Ma-Mopar. I had fog lights mounted behind the cut out grill (all lights were off road Hella & Carrello H1s). Anyway I installed a padlock behind the grill... easy to undo if they had not tried to pop the hood... and I took the rotor in with me. They flattened my tires but I could refill from my SCUBA tank. At least the car stayed put.

My grid heaters don't turn on even on a "cold" start at this time of year, and never on a repeat start. Definately something to look into. You say you don't have codes but have you had any codes but have you had them read by a coder reader, not just the key trick? I got nothing on the key but had 4 codes when the truck shut off. Apparently not all the codes show up in the odometer window. Yes, warm up mode sucks the fuel & low performance... which is why we're studying making IAT foolers.Russ

There must be something that allows the steering wheel to tilt. If it moves, eventually it will wear out! Be careful... disconnect batteries lest you deploy the airbags!

I don't have duals (more ground friction) but I have 4:10 gears... I am running 17 mpgs most of the time. Under ideal conditions I can get high 18's, maybe even 19.1 Running empty, All stock. I'm hoping my modifications this year will improve the power towing & mpgs both loaded & empty. The tire tread type has an effect on the mpgs as well. I'm still running a "all season" tire which I'd call a highway tire... Michelin LTX.