flagmanruss

I spent some time on a step ladder studying the (open) window. It is apparent that this window "gutter" inside is not expected to get water into it. It did however. The corners of the gasket are deformed and nothing to do except to replace it... If I could find one. The drains on the outside only seem to go into the gasket channel. The risk of a leak, however makes it imperitive that leakage not soak the bed. So I ran a 5/32 drill all the way through into the interior gutter... any leagage now has a way out.My next opportunity, I'll stop by the local RV place & see if this gasket can be replaced. I think the best solution is to add a RV drip rail above the window to divert run off. Kind of a belt AND suspenders solution...

If your truck is all original, there will be a fist sized electric fuel pump on the driver's side under the fuel filter. Often when these pumps go bad, they get removed but the brackets must remain as the tapped holes go through into the oil. The dealer in tank retro-fit is the other option, because you say you are "all stock" I presume that you don't have an aftermarket under the truck on the frame.Since you got those codes with a code reader... I'm assuming that you waited for both computers to complete their cycle... that this is all you have for code information.

12 too many valves!! ROTFL!!

Not to disagree with my esteemed friends... if the dirty turbo is minor, possibly manually clean the fins? Remove the intake hose. Use rubbing alcohol on a clean shop rag to wipe every thing. Alcohol evaporates quickly (I was taught to clean Marine Electronics with alcohol & Q tip... unit off, after it evaporates, power up). You could use Q tips for the crevises. The dirt will end up on your rags, not the engine. This would not be a complete cleaning but based on what you get might give you a clearer picture of whether you must remove the turbo.

I second the brakes... A couple of years ago, my mpg tanked... had it in to numerous shops (dealer said "no codes" & looked no further). It drove fine even towing except the mileage was off. Cummins has plenty of power. On the second state inspection (a year later) the shop lifted the front to check ball joints... The wheels would barely turn by hand. The discs had rust expanded so the edge dragged the caliper frames!! Who'd a thunk? Wheels did not get hot.

I don't think the grease gun hose would dampen pulses, just a cheap "pre-made" way of geting a strong hose. I always thought it was to isolate the sending unit from the engine vibrations.

Just a question... How did you get this error code? Did you use the key trick or did you scan the codes with a code reader? My truck quit on me... no codes by the key but the code reader had 4 codes. I also have an 01 with 24V Cummins... these trucks are prome to fuel pump "lift pump" failure. What Dodge/Cummins thought was acceptable fuel pressure when these trucks were designed, has proven to be inadequate. Dodge's answer is an intank lift pump which is only marginably better & still prone to failure (and harder to service since it is in the tank). The best set up is an aftermarket fuel pump mounted on the frame rail, in front of the tank. The VP44 injection pump has proved to be fragile & susceptable to low fuel pressure. Since this is so critical, knowledgeable Cummins owners add guages especially Fuel Pressure. It really would help to know more about your truck. Most of us put this information in the signature line.

Well the front to roof seam has been rinforced & fiberglassed. The corner seam is a mess with lots of dumdum but we push it in every time we move the trailer. There isn't enough overlap to rescrew it. Since the roof slopes to the nose... water is going to pour over the front in storms. The fact that the trough inside the glass was full of water... and the drains were plugged... on this window AND the sliding windows... makes me think it's the drains. Opening the drains on the sliding windows solved that problem. This is the only window of it's type in the trailer, so it might be throwing us a curve. Unlike the sliders, where water hitting the moveable portion ends up in the trough & needs to be drained, this window is actually outside the trailer & you wouldn't think it would let water into the trough. Still the trough must be there for a reason & such as they are, there are drains. I just wish the drains were direct, straight through. Don't know why they are not or why I can't make them go straight through. (Have Drill, Will Travel!)

OK, the ToyHauler Camper has a Salvage title... signs of repair in the front bedroom/nose. A couple of weeks ago, I discovered after a rain that the track of a sliding window was full of water & just beginning to overflow onto the ledge. I moped it up... then found the drain slots had a spongy material in them... clogged with dirt. I pushed in in with a thin putty knife and then those windows drain decently. I went around the outside & did al of the sliding windows.The front bedroom has a fixed panel window / emergency exit at the head of the bed... top hinged to pop up when unlatched. This unit has 4 small holes, no slot. Today, my dear wife goes out to remove the blackout shade (a solid piece of fabric stapled up covering the front windows). No curtains hung today! The trough is full, overflowed in the heavy rains yesterday & last night. The queen mattress is wet on the bottom & water in the storage compartment under the bed (opens out). The drains are angled & do not seem to connect directly to the weap holes in the inside. There must be a cavity in there for the water but the holes don't line up. We fished wires through from the inside & from the outside & got traces of dirt out when we poured water from a cup into the channel which we eventually got to drain. I have no confidence in this. I'd like to drill straight through into the channel but don't know why the manufactorer did not.So we have the mattress on edge drying, the bedding in the dryer, 2 big fans running like a windtunnel... "Not a Happy Camper"...

I don't know if these are the same. Dodge used some plastic "pop rivits" they call "retainer" part number 34201631. I bought some (dated 11.5.01) then discovered the center was too big for a conventional pop rivet tool... they look to be about 1/4" D X 1 1/4" long. I'd suggest installing an anchor or a blind nut & using a screw. I still have 5 in a package.

When I ordered the parts from Vulcan, I ordered a tapped elbow which screws into the VP44. It is suggested to use a grease pump hose to connect to a "needle valve" which is mostly close to damp the pressure pulses which are hard on gauges & sensors which are attached next.

I had my AD150 installed... besides the AD filter & separator I kept the OEM filter, just replaced the element with better. I used oversized fittings from Vulcan throughout & used 1/2 lines all the way to the VP44. It is a relief to get it done.

It has been too many years... (my Dad must be rolling over in his grave) brown, black, gold, gold (tollerance) I don't know what the third gold band means? Trying to pick through assorted strips of resistors for the IAT Fooler selector. edit OK, I'm sill not sure but found these handy sites for resistor values... http://www.csgnetwork.com/resistcolcalc.html http://samengstrom.com/24614782/en/read/4_Band_Resistor_Color_Codes

My Escort SR7 radar system comes on with the key in my truck (I like the system but it was a lot of money). I had my GPS run down my car... someone plugged the cord back in which turned the unit on... over night... I know the battery was weak but that was a surprise.

It could be AZ doesn't want to cough up... but have you cleaned the battery cables, lugs & the cross link... give a good look at the cable to lug end connection for damage (stranger things have happened)? You could also use a multi-meter to check for voltage drop first on the hot side & then on the ground at each connection (lead battery terminal, lead connector lug, copper conductor). Am I making sense?

Very few garages here will attempt to service the calipers... they just swap for rebuilt. Yeah, there was probably 20 markup on the caliper. It seems like around here getting brakes serviced (parts + labor) is $200 an axle (probably more now). This guy is convenient for my buddy but I don't see a super bargain. Nice that he didn't run up the bill with extra parts... but not a bargain on this job either. Unfortunately, I'm not physically able to do the work so I have to rely on others. Same guy as my other job so I'm still looking for a shop to call 'home'.

Thanks, Mike. I thought the AC service was not a bargain. But the guy really spent some time trying to understand the issue. A straight recharge with no problems, that would be a pretty stiff tarrif. He wants me to come by to check for leaks, tomorrow. It's still cold & I don't see any dye leaking.

The problem is not just volts, though a weak / shorted cell will show up as low volts. The problem is that while the batteries appear to charge, it is just a surface charge & under load the voltage will collapse as the batteries can no longer deliver the amperage. A battery load tester will show this.

My AC was out... I was assuming the evap core had cracked again. I took it by a new mechanic to check it out which he did while I waited... about an hour. He seems interest in discovering the problem & just fixing that, than replacing a bunch of parts. He discovered there was still some freon in it... he tried to get dye into it... I think he went back & forth 3 times... in the end he succeeded in recharging it. He thiinks that the filter was not replaced on the previous repair... perhaps it was plugged & he dislodged it. Anyrate I now have cold, although still stuck on the defrost mode (vacume control problem, that we knew). So the charges were $13 in freon, $135 in labor. The labor seems high for one hour but I don't know what AC service costs these days?

My buddy's mechanic (a nice one man shop attached to his house) had a cancelation, so I took the brake problem to him. He turned in around in a few hours. Charges on this job were $51 for the caliper, a couple of bucks in fluid and 82.50 in labor. How do you think I did?

I'm a little busy right now but the rest of my resistors have showed up for the rotary switch. If I can find some time, I'll test my soldering skills. I don't want to drill another hole in the knee panel... and I like the simple toggle (or I could have replaced the toggle with the rotary switch)... I'm thinking another piece of duplex wire between the toggle (OEM Sensor / IAT Fooler) & rotary (IAT Fooler resistance selector) switches. It's right next to the unused ashtray... might drop it in there.

4 years old is a long time on a battery. A run-dead can push it over the edge. So yes, your batteries have one foot on a banna peel. The good part is you have the time to plan the replacement... if there's a warentee, collect it now. (I kept a set of batteries going an extra winter by plugging the truck in at night.)

It seemed creapy but on a heavy highway haul, I used my 2 piece key chain to lock the doors, leaving the truck idling key in to cool the turbo... locked the doors with the keyless entry. Bro & I got back from our pit stop & hit the road again. I have no idea if the alarm would work under these circumstances...

My OEM thermostat runs rock solid, a needle width below the center mark. Towing heavy runs a needle width above the center line. 10 years, 56k on that OEM thermostat. I guess if I had problems with aftermarket thermostats, I'd go back to Cummins.

No, I didn't check for a hot wheel when I got home. I was thinking to lift one corner at a time & try spinning each wheel... it's raining hard right now... gonna wait this one out. additional The rain stopped... I took the Cirrus out. Stopped ok & straight, no pull... so I took it on an errand to the next town. When I got back, I checked the wheels. The front wheel, driver's side was hot enough that I'd not want to stick a finger on the disc. The others were hardly warm. So there's my answer. I'll have to take it in. I have noticed that it is much easier to focus on other people's mechancal riddles, than you focus on my own. Thank You. Russ