flagmanruss

This is about the equivelent of putting the rotor in your pocket! I like it!How would you get to the socket? Pull the fuse / relay panel & tap underneath it?

Since the VP44 has it's own fuel pump... truck can be driven a fair distance (think I drove 40 miles before mine shut off)... just disabling the lift pump seems to be a non-starter. Something which disables the VP44 or ECM would seem to be better to me. There are advantages & disadvantages to parking somewhere hard to tow out of. A place I worked at used big floor jacks with the wheels to move cradled 40' yachts... I saw it again when I bought a small pickup that was stored indoors between 2 pillars... Lift item, twist jack walks item sideways several inches, repeat as necessary. Once there's room, lift differential, roll truck diagonal. We did it on concrete floors indoors, outdoors used 1/8" steel sheets (had rope handles to drag) overlapped as shingles to get length. Outdoors, we used a WW2 surplus powerwagon with winch for locomotion.

I had run an errand, backed hard left out of parking space... (no gas) car seemed to not back as fast as normal. I wasn't concerned as it was close parking so slow is fine. When I went forward, car did not want to up-shift (automatic). I checked shifter was correct & ebrake off (I don't use). Smelled like badly burning clutch... I was most concerned about transmission. Had smell with me for several miles, I rolled down window to get rid of it. I don't drive hard anyway... Car seemed to drive ok, but I was concerned. Drove it home at reduced speed. When I got home, I put max pressure on brake pedal... I think pedal is low though seems to take hold. I didn'y try to drive after. I'm thinking I may have stuck a brake... (Stuck caliper or colapsed hose locking?) Full brake job (new discs & pads, drums & shoes) a little over a year ago... 10,000 miles. Going to check fluid level this morning. Russ

Second Opinion!The doctor said, 'Joe, the good news is I can cure your headaches. The badnews is that it will require castration.You have a very rare condition, which causes your testicles to press onyour spine and the pressure creates one hell of a headache. The only way torelieve the pressure is to remove the testicles.'Joe was shocked and depressed. He wondered if he had anything to live for. He had nochoice but to go under the knife. When he left the hospital, he was withouta headache for the first time in 20 years, but he felt like he was missingan important part of himself. As he walked down the street, he realizedthat he felt like a different person. He could make a new beginning andlive a new life.He saw a men's clothing store and thought, 'That's what I need... A newsuit...'He entered the shop and told the salesman, 'I'd like a new suit..'The elderly tailor eye d him briefly and said, 'Let's see... Size 44 long.'Joe laughed, 'That's right, how did you know?''Been in the business 60 years!' the tailor said.Joe tried on the suit it fit perfectly.As Joe admired himself in the mirror, the salesman asked, 'How about a newshirt?'Joe thought for a moment and then said, 'Sure.'The salesman eyed Joe and said, 'Let's see, 34 sleeves and 16-1/2 neck.'Joe was surprised, 'That's right, how did you know?''Been in the business 60 years.'Joe tried on the shirt and it fit perfectly.Joe walked comfortably around the shop and the salesman asked, 'How aboutsome new underwear?'Joe thought for a moment and said, 'Sure.'The salesman said, 'Let's see... Size 36.Joe laughed, 'Ah ha! I got you! I've worn a size 34 since I was 18years old.'The salesman shook his head, 'You can't wear a size 34. A size 34 wouldpress your testicles up against the base of your spine and give you onehell of a headache.'New suit - $400New shirt - $36New underwear - $6Second Opinion - PRICELESS

Total Bummer! Where are you located? Post on every forum, more pictures of unique features. Hopefully it will turn up. Oh, yes, check Craigs List for your truck & also Cummins parts.

I have had mouse nests in heater blower cages... I hope the b@stards got dizzy. Drop the blower, clean out the blower, heater core etc. Yuck!! I ought to cut the fan schroud on the backhoe... whenever it's started, there's a clanging of acorns in the fan. Maybe if there was a hole in the bottom, they could fall out!

I searched a couple of the brands & numbers & found a great deal on ebay motors not long ago. http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=Fram+CA6818&_sacat=&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=Fram+CA6818&_osacat=0&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313 $39.99 + 11.03 shipping same place I got mine. Sold by Fram made by Donaldson & so marked

Is the relay bad or the socket ground bad? Try swapping relays (horn relay or something unimportant). Does that socket pin go to ground?

Goldfish worked like a charm... until I learned that, the horses would get fussy about the water when it needed cleaning. I'd dump it scrub it with bleach, rinse & refill. I don't blame them... it grossed me out when I'd find larvae swimming in their water. I still had to clean the tank of algae but no mosquitos.

Ant Eater? We use Terro a lot.At one time we experimented with preventing dock pilings from being lifted by the winter ice... a floating ring filled with vegatable oil. It didn't work because of tide action but I'm thinking vegable oil for a mouse bucket. I've heard of antifreeze in the bucket in winter (mice drown, not ingest... but would have to be protected from pets.) I'll start with the non-toxic.I used to keep goldfish in my horse's stock tank... eat the mosquito larvae. I had to bucket the water out, catch them, scrub the tank, put them back. They'd last a whole year...

I'm delighted. Speedway Sales gave me what I think is a super price. http://www.speedwaysales.com/honda-eu1000i-super-quiet-generator-p-3958.html He was as good as his word, the package arrived Fed Ex THE MORNING on day 4! With so much crap going on in the world of on-line sales, it's nice to credit someone's honesty.

When installing my IAT mpg Fooler & XZT+... I found the cowel inslulation all mouse eaten & acorns. I ripped it out. Truck is noticeably louder but I don't see that I had a choice. I want to run a water bucket mouse trap. What can I put in the water to stop mosquito breeding? We have a high danger from mosquito illnesses.

Since I'm going to retain the toggle switch (sensor/rotory switch resistor array) I can have all 6 resistors on the rotory plus the OEM sensor. Those 5 are good choices...

It could be used with the overhead... realizing that the overhead is not accurate with a chip, box or programer... Still the comparison is still good. My overhead was right on compared to calculated mpg until I recently installed the Quadzilla XZT+. Russ --- Update to the previous post... I was only able to get a 6 position rotary switch... I was thinking of Dad's TV tuners when I came up with this! I've ordered the additional resistors. Now I need to select which 6 of these 8 to mount: 100*F - 5.6K Ohms - Green/Blue/Red 7* jump 107*F - 4.7K Ohms - Yellow/Violet/Red 5* jump 112*F - 4.3K Ohms - Yellow/Orange/Red 7* jump 119*F - 3.6K Ohms - Orange/Blue/Red 4* jump 123*F - 3.3K Ohms - Orange/Orange/Red 4* jump 127*F - 3.0K Ohms - Orange/Black/Red 5* jump 132*F - 2.7K Ohms - Red/Violet/Red 11* jump 143*F - 2.2K Ohms - Red/Red/Red 2.2K currently mounted directly to the IAT Fooler toggle switch. I will remove this resistor & wire the toggle to activate the rotory switch. Note: It would be possible to replace the toggle switch with the rotory switch using the OEM sensor for one setting but would reduce the available slots for fixed resistors to test. I'm not going to install the Rotory switch through the panel just yet... maybe just tuck it underneath for now. Suggestions for Test Values, Guys?

I don't have a scan gauge... so a pot (variable resistor) would not do. I thought that a multi-contact rotory switch would be an answer allowing me to test the resistance values. I made a trip to Radio Shack with my resistor list... but they only had a few of the needed values. I still think it's a good idea... if I could just lay hands on the parts. I did pick up a rotary switch & 5.6, 4.7, 3.3, 2.2K resistors... I wanted 3.0, 3.6, 4.3K as well. I also picked up another Radio Shack toggle switch #275-666. You'll recall I was questioning my sanity. But I just tested this one with my meter and YES, when the toggle is down the bottom contacts are connected... the opposite of what I had expected. So I had correctly tested the original switch & was wrong to doubt myself (in this case). Russ

That's cool.

Sorry Mike, read my last post. Quadzilla says the XZT+ doesn't fool IAT. Russ

To: Jeremy McCann, Quadzilla Jeremy, I have a question on my new XZT+. I have been running an Intake Air Temperature fooler, a resistor which minics a warmed up engine which improves mpg on a cold start. I am wondering if the XZT+ also fools IAT if so I'm thinking that both should not be run together. Please advise. Thankyou for your assistance, Russell reply: Russell The XZT+ does not fool the IAT in any way. Jeremy McCann Quadzilla Tech 1-888-842-6572 jmccann@quadzillapower.com www.quadzillapower.com

When I pickd up the Toy Hauler... I knew nothing of WD hitches. The trailer came with most of the WD hitch. The shim pack was missing... that was necessary to make the torsion bars work. What a scary ride home that was! Just did not have proper steering control. I looked up the Hitch on line, read the instructions & used a bolt & washers to make a replacement shim pack. I can't say I like WD hitches but it's necessary for this rig. My Gooseneck horse trailer has the axles way back & I'm sure I have very high tongue weight when load for camping but never had control issues. About the craziest thing I've seen... Our barn was built over a 56' mobile home... intended to be used as storage rooms. We decided to get it out. It took me years to reduce it to a platform. A local junk guy said if I could put it in the street, he'd take it! I opened the end of the barn & used my backhoe to get it out (between trees) and turn it. I had to fix all the tires. The junk guy showed up with a 3/4 ton Chevy & down the road we went. My road is a steep down hill accross a brook and nearly 45 degrees up the other side in creeper gear. We had someone in front & one behind to block traffic (only had 2 miles to go). Wouldn't you know some idiots tried to pass us (we blocked them)... they couldn't pass the trailer anyway on that narrow road. We had a narrow bridge to cross (right down the middle). The junk guy didn't think he could stop it. When we got to his place we had to make a left & the lead guy blocked oncoming traffic... WHEW!! editI remember driving ahead, down the middle of the street, waving people aside. They looked at me like I was nuts... for just a second, until they saw what was coming AT THEM!! They moved WAY OVER!!

At various times, I've managed to back into things which did not show above the tail gate... the only significant damage was busted taillights. DRAT! I've bought replacements on line.

Thanks guys for the enlightening discussion. I have noticed via the overhead (when stick & with XZT set to 'off')... I keep the display set to AVERAGE. On a cold start, the AVERAGE would drop ~1 mpg (one whole mpg) for the stock engine & no IAT fooling. With the IAT fooler only activated, the cold start drop is .1-.2 (one tenth of one mpg) So it is having an immediate effect. If there are some other factors they are relatively minor. My temperature gauge runs slightly left of the centermark unless I'm towing... but without a scan gauge there's no way to confirm the exact calibration of the dash gauge. But once warmed up, the engine coolant temperature is almost a constant value. AH, That is an interesting point about the Quadzilla Mileage Max (#rd Gen) being a IAT fooler. One might conclude that the other Quad products like the XZT+ would likely incorperate the same technique. Is it unnecessary & maybe counter productive to run an IAT fooler if one has an XZT+? I have sent a querry to Quadzilla... I'll let you know what I learn.

Nice looking set up, VW!I admit I'm confused by the IAT temp offset business. I don't know what parameters beyond the IAT that the ECM uses to adjust the timing. I'd like to find a single IAT value so I could use a single IAT fooler. Life should be so simple. This is a long thread with a series of small experiments. I was reviewing these several tests but the conditions vary so it's hard to draw overall conclusions beyond the immediate experiment. A basic of the "scientific method" we all learned in school, is to only vary one factor at a time. But if the environment changes (Winter into Spring) then that changes a second factor. So what caused the change in the results? Is the MAP sensor or the Coolant temperature a factor? On another note, I have tried to research the Quadzilla XZT+. I don't know with a certainty if the economy mode affects the overhead MPG averages, but the power setting does according to posts. So I've got to hand calulate mpgs now. Russ

Right now, I dressed the harnesses fron the rioght side of the knee panel, through the dash... tucked under the carpet to the right of the GO pedal... just under the edge of the carpet around to the e-brake area... so far I just tucked the XZT+ under the carpet too. I'm sure the spot I'm eyeballing on the ebrake is the same one you used. Yup, zip ties are expendable. I was confuse at first... I have my Epco solid state trailer brake controler bolted through the knee panel on the left edge (between the e-brake release & the hood release) with the harness dressed under the dash. Things get real crowded around that e-brake area. The Epco units look identical to the "Power Stop" PS500 http://www.powerstopusa.com/products.php

Well, the p-pump had no variable timing and the VP44 does. So we have to tell the VP to do something. I imagine it has a default setting if the input is lost & almost certainly it's not what we want! I can't help but think that the electronic injection adjustment is as much about SMOG as it is about effiency. We want to flip this priority! I remember when the smog sniffers first came out, a guy who owned a garage put his 64 Chevelle 6 cylinder on the sniffer even though it wasn't required. The 6 cylinder Chevy was almost unmeasurable, compared to the (then) latest smogged engines. What have we gotten for all this "smogged" engines, detuned, loss of power & efficiency... an energy crisis! It seems to me (my fogged brain)... that an efficient engine is not incompatable with "clean". I don't want to pour my $4.29 a gallon fuel into the atmosphere... I want to do the job I bought it for, without wasting a drop of it. OK, somebody help me down off my milk crate before I fall down... Russ --- Update to the previous post... Jim, You made the comment, that the trigger for the timing is 130 degrees IAT. I am very interested in if this figure is reliable & if your data source is something we can access? It might save us a lot of trial and error! Russ

The beauty of haviing the IAT fooler on a switch is that one can throw the switch & return to the sensor. It might well be that fooling is only useful to beat the warm up cycle, but once the engine temp is normal switch back to the OEM sensor. While we are talking about air temps... as I was working on this, I got in a position where I could see under the back edge of the hood. I'd always "assumed" that the rubber piece on the cowel edge contacted the hood forming a gasket seal. It does not on my truck. I think it's more of a dam/diverter to keep water from getting on to the engine, electronics, components (also the lower edge fiding the various unsightly harnesses). If there is a gap here, hot underhood air will exit, perhaps de-icing the windshield. Then again it exposes the cowel air inlet to fumes from under the hood... Just an observation...