flagmanruss

Well, what a stamping machine can do, a man with a hammer and anvil can too... but rather than bother my buddy the backsmith, I'm think my inlaws. A flat circle and a raised ring welded together. I do have a lathe so could turn the ring if we can't find a tube the right size. The spring shop said they would install it. We'll see.Thanks,Russ

It's the bottom spring cup on the axle that I need. The cup must hold water & road salt... probably most used are same condition. I'm going to talk to a fabricator & see if we can't make a heavier one. If he can build nuclear subs, he ought to be able to build a couple of these.

I still have not been able to find a listing for this Coil Spring Seat... I called the biggest spring shop in the state. They say they see Dodges & Fords with this all the time, that it's a dealer part... if you can still get it. They'll put it in if I get them... but I can't find them listed anywhere! I was hoping to find an on-line dealer who sells parts... Ideas? Otherwise it's a welder / fabricator job.Additional: I called a dealer who said that part is not shown separately... part of front axle assembly. I said "welder/fabricator job" and the parts rep said "yes". So I guess I know what I need to do. (No wonder the diesel repair shop didn't want to get into it.)

It's grand-babies now! I don't do changes... Hand-off to Nana!

I think I have a good place to tap the TRAILER lights as the previous owner had a huge (5x6) rear cargo carrier... I declined to take it... but it slid (3 strong men) into 3 reciever hitches... and WAS FULLY LIGHTED. The lights connected to a trailer plug in the trailer below the ramp. I'd pull the plug and use it as a junction point. I'm waiting to order the trailer lights as the RED version of the turn/marker light I selected should be available shortly. I think I'll add a lower tail/stop/turn (wired the same) while I'm at it, as the OEM lights are pretty high. I'm still undecided on the side turns for the truck... which I still want, maybe 6 per side spaced wheel well to wheel well...

Cool!Does this mean we have to "play nice"?

My mounting brackets are welded to the exhaust pipe. The bracket on the tail pipe seems to have popped out of the rubber suspending link allowing the long sections to rotate. I'm think if I can loosen a clamp or 2 & jack the tip back up, maybe I can twist the pipe sections the other way & slip the bracket back in the rubber. I'm thinking of wiring or clamping (hose clamp) around the rubber/bracket.

electric brakes here... have checked hubs & drums for heat after hours on the highway... only slightest warmth, easy to touch.

The noise was definately a consideration for me as one use is camping in the parking area of our re-enactments... I don't want spill over noise to infultrate the primitive area & spoil the event for others. I settled on running the generator on the opposite side of the camper. I did run it into the evening... but this particular event had a freezer on a trailer to sell ice & ran their own larger Honda generator all day just beyond the entrance (off at night).

I wonder how much heat affects the exhaust manifold bolts... Marine Exhausts are water jacketed, of course... but I used to see stainless studs on the better brands, sometimes with brass nuts. Older ChrisCrafts used to be like this. I used to abuse my Craftsman metric 6 point sockets... driving an undersized socket on a badly rusted nut... go down one size at a time until I could get a bite. I always advocated rust resistant hardware when we replaced it... sometimes, I just did it...

No speeds / correct opperation intermittantly, does indeed sound like a possible bad connection. Power right at the blower?

I like the idea of this. I too like the SS allen bolts... a guy after my own heart!

I've got a decent sized generator in the barn... Honda 6500... it needs to be serviced but we decided that was too much generator for our needs. NO AC applances. I guess 2000 would have been better so we could run the refridge on AC and charge batteries. We don't run the AC & have no microwave. Really the trailer is set up to run on the bank of 12V batteries, as long as they last.i did pick up one neat item at WM... a gas funnel with a float so you can stop pouring gas before it floods over the top. Too bad it doesn't seal so you could lift it off & back onto the gas can, but it'll do.Mike, I was scared of brands I didn't know. I'll be interested in how yours holds up.Russ

Mike brings up a good point... my ToyHauler does not gain speed on downhills, even fairly steep downhills. I know it's like towing a bill board but I still wonder if there is some drag that should not be there.

I don't find the cruise control saves fuel over my (cheap) right foot. Towing heavy, it's a wash but I'd not trust it anyway... as I work the OD in/out. By feathering the fuel when I can, coasting where I can, especially backing off as I crest a hill... I find I'm a mpg better consistantly.

The first thing to do is limber up your trusty multi-meter & check for voltage on the motor power lead above the passenger's foot well. If no power there, check the power feeding the resistor, a few inches away (follow the wire).Do you mean NO speeds as in no blower at all? Or only 1 speed? If the resistor fails, usually the high speed still works. The resistor slows it down from there. (If the resistor has failed, drop the blower motor & check inside the duct (the resistor block sticks up into the duct) and mouse debris can cause it to overheat causing resistor failure. If no power, check your fuses again.

I have 4.10 gears & OEM rubber... I know the owners manual says to not tow in OD. I didn't want to but the way I'm set up, the engine was screaming at highway speeds w/o OD. Until recently, when I added a Quadzilla XZT+ (2000 tune), the truck was not happy pulling moderate grades in OD (lugging). If I ran faster, I could get the engine into the power band I make the grades (now I can better pull those grades in OD, & if not I'm ok with dropping the speed a bit & shifting out of OD). Even with the XZT in "economy" mode the truck tows happier... I normally drive in econo mode & it is more peppy than stock (flip of the switch). I can only say what I've decided as a course of action for my own truck... I don't tow in OD on secondary routes with lower speeds. On the Interstates, I'll use OD if the rig seems happy with it. I don't jump on the throttle. I constantly pay attention & am prepared to shift down if it seems prudent.

I had a k&n drop in filter for about a year. It didn't do anything useful. I threw it away & went back to pleated paper that I can't see through. K&N made their name in race gas engines... which expect to be torn down regularly & they work at keeping birds & bumble-bees out of the intake. The Cummins engine should outlast the truck it is in... a totally different situation. Actually the deep pleat paper filters from later years gives more filter area... It's the filter box that is restrictive. The simplest thing is to swiss cheese the airbox & put in the better paper filter.IMHO, "cold air intakes" are also a carry over from gassers & not nearly as realivant to INTERCOOLED Turbo Diesels as intercooling reduces the temperature of the incoming charge.

The tip is getting low... I look under & the rod has jumped out of the rubber. I don't know if I'll have any luck fixing it... IF I can crawl under.

"Brake pedal?? What's a brake pedal??""Run, run!! That guys gonna run ya over!""Toot! Toot! Comin Through!"

It's a really nice looking truck... but "customizing" doesn't add to the value, in my opinion. It does improve the saleability however. I would not expect to get any extra for the Hidden Hitch in mine. Or the SS exhaust... it's expected top have an exhaust, in good condition... the SS was my way of only doing the job once. The paint & debadged looks nice but my truck with the decals works just fine. I'd not pay extra to get it. Just my 2 cents. I'd try to buy it for less.

If that plug is not in use, silicone sealer or liquid tape (when it's dry).

Nice cow catcher!

Now that I've decided on the turn/markers for the toyhauler... I want to mount them along the lower edge of the siding. The underneath is enclosed in a tough "painted fabric" which I suppose aids the airflow. How would YOU route the wiring? How do I get the wiring to come out under the trailer?

Feed it well (good fuel), maintain your filters. I predict a long & happy life together. There is a wealth of information here on the in's & out's of the various vintages of these trucks. Read & learn. You'll know better how to take good care.