flagmanruss

It there a socket that could be soldered to the switch which would accept a resistor? Do you feel that the 140 resistor would be better winter setting over the 110?

I made up my own from a harness from Caspers, resistor & switch from Radio Shack, wire from an unused trailer harness... Diagram from http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3231-MPG-fooler-Design-phase I had a project box but decided just to put the switch through the knee panel.

It should not be so d@rn hard to buy stuff on line.

After I cancelled the previous order... NO Response... I can not afford to be jerked around, wasting time! I had to search all over again after I got the notice from PayPal. The first place I had on my list gave me a good price but had just sold the last one in stock. I called Speedway Sales... in stock, to ship Monday... estimating 4 days. http://www.speedwaysales.com/honda-eu1000i-super-quiet-generator-p-3958.html Final cost was slightly less!!

Just sharing... prices change daily. Might save some fuel by checking before you leave home. Both have Diesel options as well. http://gasprices.mapquest.com/ http://gasbuddy.com/

Yes, it does. I hate discovering damages & crappy work after paying plenty to have work done. AAARRRGGGHHH!!!

I can't find ANY of these codes listed in the 24 valve error codes?? Often there is detailed information. I was going to look for overlap. edit I Googled each code & this is what I got: P0572 When the brake pedal is depressed, the stop light switch sends a signal to the ECM. When the ECM receives this signal, it cancels the cruise control. A fail safe function is provided so that the functions normally, even if there is a malfunction in the stop light signal circuit. The cancel condition occurs as battery positive voltage is supplied to terminal STP. When the brake is on, battery positive voltage is normally applied through the STOP fuse and the stop light switch to terminal STP of the ECM, and the ECM turns the cruise control OFF. If the harness connected to terminal STP has an open circuit, terminal STP will have battery positive voltage and the cruise control will be turned OFF. **** P0628 Lift pump or On the back of your cp3 pump there is a fuel pressure control solenoid/ possible problem? ***** P02509 could be caused by weak batteries or loose cable connections. I would check all battery cables. Could also be caused if + cable is shorted to ground.... the 2509 code is set when one or both batteries are weak or dead. this would be the first place I would look. Batteries & cross overs must be perfect. P2509 has a TSB 18-001-07 which is a flash and P2609 you may have an open battery wire or short, P2609 no voltage drop seen from intake air heaters. (one report: bad grid heater ground) (another report: replace everything: the dealer had the truck for a month they ended up replacing the ECM after 2 new batteries twice, new wiring harness, grid heater, battery temp sensors, and some other crap. The truck has been great since. **** P0533 A/C Pressure Sensor High. It could be low on refrigerant, or it could be a bad sensor. Back-probe the pressure sensor connector (on the discharge line, near the compressor - it's a 4-way connector) on the dark blue wire with the engine running and the A/C turned to max. If you get no volts, or 5 volts, the sensor is bad. 4.5 volts indicates a properly-operating system, while less than 4.5 indicates low pressure, and anything above indicates high pressure. If low or high pressure is suspected, verify with a set of refrigerant gauges. If warranted, the sensor can just unscrew. You won't lose refrigerant - there's a valve built in to the line to prevent that. Make sure to use a new O-ring and lube it with the proper oil if you do change the sensor

My horse trailers & campers have always needed brakes & came with them. The single axle landscaper's trailer came with the clearance lights (3 center) but no brakes. I guess not required at the rated load weight (does anybody ever pay attention to the rating on these?)... God only knows how heavy we were hauling hay but it was a slow speed trip & truck brakes were more than adequate. My trucks have long used the 7 flat prong RV plugs. The landscaper's traler came with a flat 4 pin plug & I just used the adaptor (until I dragged it on the ground & wrecked it). So I built a short adaptor pigtail. I've been replacing the lights on the landscaper's trailer with better grade truck lights as they fail. I like the DOT tape & use it liberally on all my trailers... left the graphics off the horse trailer when I bought it in exchange for DOT tape. If someone hits my trailers I want them to feel really stupid.

P1291 - No Temp Rise Seen From Intake Heaters Energizing Heated Air Intake does not change intake air temperature sensor an acceptable amount. Monitor & Set Conditions Temperature rise from intake air heaters is monitored for first 15 seconds of engine operation. DTC may be stored if initial Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor reading is 0-66°F (-17.8 to 18.8°C), Battery Temperature Sensor (BTS) and IAT sensor are within 10°F of each other, time between end of preheat and engine run state is less than 30 seconds, engine is cranked for less than 5 seconds before engine starts, preheat is completed before engine starts, post-heat is active and no IAT sensor or intake air heater relay DTCs exist. There's extensive trouble shooting in our code section: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2618-P1291-No-Temp-Rise-Seen-From-Intake-Heaters Since I have the same resistor as Mike wired across a toggle switch as an IAT fooler... should I be turning it off (back to the OEM sensor) then to the fooler after a minute or so?

I got a notice from PayPal that the payment has not been picked up for the generator. There's a 916 phone number to call (Sacrenento, Calif). I'll try it later to see if they are going to sell to me or not. At least they did not take the money & then not deliver... yet. I need a generator & if not, I'm back to shopping. Drat, I hate to think I wasted all that time. After I ordered, I erased the others from my favorites. edit I called & left a message. Let's see if I get a call back as the recording promised. further info I checked PayPal & the funds had not been picked up. I don't have time to be screwing arround so I took PayPal's advise & cancelled the transaction.

Get a room!!

As my bro found out NY likes to target out of state vehicles for radar traps... they figure tourists will not return to contest in court.In Rhode Island, if you move you are supposed to register your vehicle & get a new License (and they take & destroy your out of state license) at 30 days. Nearby states are similar. Years ago that happened to me & I immediately obtained a duplicate of my oroginal licence to replace the one I'd turned in... I moved back to my home state within a short time. A lot of summer residents beach (and ignore) the 30 days bit. Our daughter moved out of state & used our address as a permanent residence and kept her RI license & plates. She's back in state & renting now. It is very tough to prove when someone becomes a resident... taxes... voting...

I decided to try the XZT+2000 tune in my new XZT+... I'm thinking the low speed trailer towing will want the agressive bottom end tune. What a PITA. Neither of my XP computers had the .net 3.5 network needed. The Quadzilla instructions are confusing, though all there. It took a nervous hour with both my desktop open to the instructions and (on the second try) the programing done on my laptop. I suppose one could print out the instructions... but you really need them. I think (hope) I got it done. Hopefully additional tuning wil not be so difficult.Russ

Trailer does't have pop-outs. I thought the windows had felt in the tracks... which had turned to lint which plugged up the drains. After I probed the drains, with good light & magnification (bad eyes... hell getting old!) I found I'd pushed what I thought was lint & dirt into the track. I swear I couldn't see it until after I'd probed the slots. I cleaned it out of that first window. I'll do the same for the rest of them today. I'm glad I found this. edit I did the other windows now. I found I was mistaken. What I thought was lint in the first window was in fact a tiny bit of open cell foam... I suppose to keep bugs from climbing in through those tiny slots. I don't know how they expected the foam to stay open enough to drain. I could barely get a thin putty knife into there. The foam was full of debris. I pushed all the foam into the trailer & cleaned the slots. I'm more concerned with the certainty of water damaging the camper than the possibility of some bugs. Much better to tackle this at home than when we're off somewhere. That spare putty knife is now added to the tool kit.

I only knew about the lift pump issues because of my reading here & on CF. I am so much better educated about my truck NOW than when I bought it. I should have gotten educated FIRST . Honestly, I'd have not bought a 4.10 geared truck!

I think I ran about 40 miles of easy driving with no lift pump... before the truck shut off. The dealer diagnosed it as a failed lift pump. I refused their intank fix... had the truck moved to a Diesel shop. The diesel shop corrected the wiring fault, bled the system & got the truck running on the original lift pump. I had the diesel shop install my AD 150, big line kit, new pickup & return. It cost me plenty but at least I have an AD & not some POS in tank pump.

Sooo after today's deluge I went out... found window track overflowed onto ledge... I mopped it up. I probably should have left the track full so I could have seen if it drained when I went outside & probed the drains with a flat blade. But they seemed to be open?! WTF?? I just don't get it. Maybe I need magnification & more light to inspect more closely... Maybe I could pour water back into track to test it... but if it still doesn't drain, I have no clue why.

Nothing wrong with the right lane... I only get frustrated if the truck is struggling. As long as we're getting down the road, getting better mpg / saving money can be it's own reward! Takes a whole lot of the sting out of being passed.

Personally, I dislike wiring which runs through the trailer frame... steel horse trailers are known to have huge problems with frame rot & still manage to chafe wires on occasion. (One fabricator I know used closed box and welded the ends closed, except for a plug at each end... he poured oil into the frame & it sure as hell has not rotted out!) I much prefer plastic conduit secured underneath. I'd run wired pairs. A double male pigtail will be confusing because the wiring will be reversed. I have a M/F 24" extension harness I use when needed. The trailer tongue has a bit of extra wire secured with 2 zip ties... but not clamped so hard that I could not work a few inches of wire in/out if I needed. I use a bungie between the truck & trailer to hold the exccess off the ground on a bumper tow... only once, I apparently hooked the hitch with the wires, backing out at my destination... it pulled the plug out which was destroyed dragging on the ground. I built a socket into the side of my truck bed for a gooseneck connection... Rather than cut into the OEM wiring, (I could not find a T tap like my old trucks used) I have a male end which plugs into the OEM trailer socket... essencially an installed extension.) I use insulated M/F crimp connector at the lights, so they can be replaced without shortening the wires. You could use a barrier strip to bring everything together at the tongue, maybe even in a project box if you want... or you can just splice. I got ambitious & soldered these, used liquid tape to waterproof, then taped & finally covered with chafe protection. I rewired my old horse trailer... I used all signal-stat lights (bought them all & got a break on the cost). The cheap lights were just such a PITA... I still see my old trailer (new owner works with my brother) & 5 years in, he's glad I bought quality lights.

I'm no computer wizz... but I'm running XP home on both my desktop & laptop. I struggle so to learn new stuff, I really don't want to go through that. Originally my laptop didn't even have a intenet adaptor but I finally bought the plug in wireless adaptor. I just used it for meeting & took the data home on a thumb drive. I really don't want to replace my computers just because someone wants to sell me a new one.The wife got into digital photography & was filling up the memory on the desktop so I bought her a laptop (Vista)... but I stay away from it!

Sometimes yas find a good deal... It's best to grab it while you can! Too often, I've gone back & found I'd missed out on it. We're all 12V except the AC which we've not even used yet. Hopefully just fans will do on this trip... I opened up some cabinettes to utilize wasted space (wife thinks I went nuts with the jig saw)... the new doors just arrived today. Stain & varnish before mounting.

One source of the 1/4 tank issue could be the flow rate of the basket if the return is not in the basket also...

I would have been money ahead if I had ordered a drawstraw... they offer various packages which have the correct matching of input & output (although they do not explain the reason why).

I just spent a boat-load of money getting my truck running again. The Diesel shop found wiring faults in the battery connections... not just the lead battery to cable but also the cable to lug connectors at the batteries and the insulated disconnects about 6" into the leads. I can't be sure about your year truck but mine the lift pump ground is wired to the passenger's side battery & the power off the driver's side so it the cross over wiring is not perfect, it can cause low voltage. While you have the batteries disconnected, clean the leads on the alternator, any grounds you can see. There is a power down relay on the driver's side in the fuse box by the battery. I wiggled mine around & it started working again. I ended up just pulling the fuses & relays one by one to wipe the corrosion off them. This costs just a little time & IMHO, is a good place to start. Do the simple stuff first.Hope this helps,Russ

Works for me!!