flagmanruss

I'm hoping to do the Low FP Warning for minimal cost at the same time as the gauges. I would not be bother for just me... However, I don't really know how well wife minds things on those ocassions when I can't get out of her using the truck.

I am installing a gauge(s)... planning to T the warning at the same time.

I have bid on a switch on ebay. (Please don't bid against me!) Do you all use a light or buzzer for Low Fuel Pressure? As much as I don't like it, sometimes the wifee drives my truck. ("What's mine is mine & what's yours is mine also!")

I was told and can only find 1000 series tunes, 2000 series, and beta 1000, beta 2000, beta comp on the web site. If you can find the 3000 series, please post a link. Maybe I missed something.

I'm really underwhelmed. I see elegant bilet machined fittings... that are seemingly "just" pressed into an inferior rubber gromet. There does not seem to be any compression... no nut on the inside. No flange bolted down. I see lots of pictures that seem to indicate fuel leakage on top of the tank. Am I missing something?I've worked on built tanks in the marine industry... Threaded holes. Under flanges with gaskets. Threaded tank tops. I've seen metal tanks fail (after immersion in salt water)... a handful in 20,000 installations. I've seen fill hoses get loose & leak... a couple in 20,000 installations. I just can't go for a defective design. It just seems that inferior designs are the norm here. I don't want to fill my truck to the cap (up the spout)... but it has happened. I have filled my old C30 saddle tanks (2) 20s to the cap, no leaks... sometimes on purpose before hooking up because it was hard to get fuel. If there is a couple of gallons in the fill pipe, it should not end up on the ground!!

I'm anxiously awaiting getting my truck back from the shop. I have the Quadzilla XZT+. After installation, the tunes are downloaded to your computer & one power tune at a time may be installed in the XZT+ box in the highest setting. There are many power tunes available from the Quadzilla site & power tunes can be changed at will. Installing a power tune overwrites the prevous setting. (I believe the stock and economy tunes can not be changed.) I read about a "more agressive" non-published "3000 tune" on another forum. It is down loaded first to your computer then to the XZT+ box, the same as any other power tune. It is being shared by email so of course I had to have it. I can email it to anyone interested. PM me. Choice of tune depends on your use & trials on your individual truck. Thanks, Russ

I'm also shopping for EV2 gauges... There doesn't seem to be any deals out there. Thanks for the tip on the dimmer.

Thank you for the thoughts on the various Drawstraw options. I have an AD150, extension harness & relay, big line kit out of an 04, but no Draw Straw. Bugman, I hear you on the O ring. I think I'm not understanding correctly. Your prefered method is to cap off the module (retrofit in tank pump/OEM sending unit). If you drill a hole in the tank, do you not have to remove the sending unit to reach inside to put a nut on the inside?

I'm having trouble finding these. Where's a good source? edit I just found these: -NAPA/Balkamp Adjustable Pressure Switch (NAPA) P/N: 701-1577 high pressure -NAPA/Balkamp Adjustable Pressure Switch (NAPA) P/N: 701-1575 low pressure 31.99 or some such

I am thinking that a Low FP Warning would be a good idea... Who offers one? My thought is to T the switch in when installing the new FP gauge. Your experiences?

I believe to upgrade to later year brakes, you have to go to larger wheels for clearance. I'm not hard on brakes & I have no issues with the stock size. When I tow, I'm used to anticipating stops & gentle slow downs from hauling a live load (horses). edit Now when I turn the power up, I may think differently!

Welcome Aboard Just a tip: Cummins doesn't have glow plugs. Cummins uses an electric preheater grid in the intake just before the manifild. Because of this, use of starting fluid (without disabling the grid) can cause an explosion... spoil your day.

Great News!

Ya's a bunch of comics!! Actually that scooter is scary fast... I need Snoopy's WWI flying ace goggles! It's all electric of course powered by (2) 100AH AGM (Acid Glass Mat) batteries. It has a high (to 10 mph) / low (to 5 mph) range... I bought it very used... There's enough slop in the steering to make 10mph scary. There is enough power to take me up a steep hill with a hitch hiker standing on the rear bumper... Believe me they don't dare let go! Definately not as powerful as my brother's engine! (one of) PS See the bridge approach in the background. This one will fly up it... not like the rental which died trying... rental also tipped over dumping me good. PS2 Bro's idea of towing something different than yer's I bet!

I was working on a customer's boat... a 28' Trojan Cabin Cruiser, single screw Interceptor engine (Ford 289 V8 blocked). It had excess crankcase pressures. I'd pulled the special (low profile with built in carb leveling wedge) aluminum intake. I found the exhaust cross over burn through & blowing into the valley! I had it welded (obsolete & any replacement would not have cleared the hatch over it) & was reassembling when I got clumsy. I dropped a nut, went through the carberator & disaapeared. I pulled the carb back off. I could not get a pencil magnet far enough down. I found a magnet & taped it to a wire. I traced each runner until I found it... Must have been all the way to the valve, thankfully closed. Scared the bejesus outta me.This one wasn't mine:A customer needed the GM 6-71 pulled out of his boat. We had an off road forklift (tractor tires on the business end) with 10 foot forks and 10 foot negative drop.) We'd put the forks over the bulkhead & hand walk the boat backwards into the lift pier. The long forks could go in under a roof or flying bridge as a "sky hook". In this case the customer freed the engine up put his chains on it. We had a chain fall hunk from the forks... he lifted the motor out of the hold. Once it was above deck, we walked the boat forward until the engine wasn't under the roof... we'd lift again with the fork lift so it would clear the transom. We lifted the motor right up & out, backed over the parting lot. We we creaping forward over his truck, a restored ~1970 pickup. The engine was over the bed but the reverse gear was still over the gate when his chain on the reverse gear failed. It mushed that tailgate pretty good. Fortunately, no one was under it. Who'd have thought a chain would fail? Well it did. Felt bad for him... A month later we put the engine back in for him... truck had a mis-matched tailgate on it.

I have a EPCO solid state brake controller Model 100... I moved it over to the CTD from my original trailer set up on my 79 C30 (c1985). I don't have an exhaust brake... I actually have a spare EPCO unit. I let my ex keep the 84 GMC half ton in the divorce. Couldn't leave her without transportation. On the other hand, the only good thing we had going was trucking the horses to the state management area (I now abutt that Mgt Area). I thought it only fair that she should give up the good with the rest... in as much as she wanted it over. So I stripped the trailering stuff. I left the back bumper (GMC did't come with one) and we'd welded a Reese receiver to it. No, I didn't leave the insert. The ex "kept" the 25 x 30 barn I'd built & I had to remove my horse immediately. It was her house & I lost everything I put into the place over the 5 years. I got to move on... Me (I wasn't heavy then), dogs, 84 GMC, ex's house, I built a shop in the garage (took my tools & equipment) New Barn, broke my heart to leave it behind Me & my horse Nick fording a stream c1986 79 C30 / Scamper Camper "It was a place to live." I got my car back... '80 Challenger 2.6/5 speed I found the steering had been wrecked. I regret not searching harder for the parts to fix it.

Ed, Cute conversion! Well done. Links to my "in-tow" pictures...

I think the 4.7 resistor or full scale on a 5 ohm pot is too high. It may even cause problems like over-heat defueling (possibly). I used the fixed 2.2 resistor which seems to be most reasonable. To use a pot, one needs a scan guage or equiv to adjust.The relay is an interesting concept.

I had a 83 Ranger with a natural 2.2 (59 hp @ 2500). Woof!! Woof!! Couldn't get out of it's own way. Only offered 2 years (bad sign). The tranny cracked the tailhousing. Had it repaired 3 times. I threw in the towel & junked it. I later learned that I could have swapped in a 5 speed from a Madza & switched the output shaft to make it work... Might have been worthwhile if it had a turbo.

Interesting... I've been thinking of doing something sonce my OEM wheels are peeling & pitted where the center caps must rub... & now creeping out. Nothing to lose at this point!

01 Tahoe Toy Hauler CVWR 10,400 UVW 6,220 Water 833 “100 gal tank cap” LP gas 67 CCC 3,180 tires 225/75R15 trailer ~ 2850 @ 80 psi Weight Distribiting Hitch rated 10,000 750# tongue weight. model 48052 or equivelent http://www.eaz-lift.com/eazlift/Instructions/Elite_Instructions.pdf Only pict I have, shows a bit of the front. The A frame has a big (black plastic) tool box with 3 RV batteries (can just see the edge in the photo) & the propane in front of that. Praise the lord, it came with an electric jack. Marked as a 28 footer... That's the length of the box. Dang this sucker is high! I never had to watch bridges before!

AH64ID, You make a good point. Cold lubes & winter slippage will always be a winter season limitation, not just the engine function. Faster switch over to warmed up settings can only do so much. While equalling summer effiency is a great goal, will probably be impossible to achieve. It will be interesting to see how close we can come... this time next year, we should have data.

When trying to get mpgs, I prefer to NOT use the Cruise Control. As I top a hill, I try to watch the crest & feather the throttle to anticipate the power needed. It can be tiring on a long trip but I can see a couple of tenths difference immediately. I use the cruise for short periods, like when I need to rest or want to shift position without loosing my speed... Realizing every rig is different, terain is different, loads are different... logically, I expect the IAT fooler to only bring the mpgs back to summer mpgs. That ought to be a couple of mpgs for me. I don't put a lot of miles on since the CTD is not my Daily Driver... If the mpgs were better it sure would be... I can't wait to get it back & install the IAT fooler. --- Update to the previous post... Just a thought... I was thinking about the IAT fooler only having cool weather benifits. That might not be the case. In warmer weather, every cold start... the IAT is lower (not as low as that cold hunk of iron outside but still lower). The IAT fooler speed the switch over even in summer... I don't know if would be measurable... a smaller differential. Still I'll take anything I can get.

My Mom bought it brand new... I inherited it 5 years old with 8000 miles. I've run it up to 90k now. I wouldn't have picked it out but I'm more comfortable in it than most other cars.

I was reading a bit about drilling the manifold... saw an idea which I thought was very smart... to put a couple of strong magnets next to the drill... to suck shavings away from the hole.I tend to get carried away with tapping... I read to only tap 2-3 threads so threads would be tight without protruding into the manifold. {Something (dumb) I could see myself doing!}