flagmanruss

The elbow is so I can get the BHAF further onto the fender. Yes, it's an extra cost. I'm going to try the furnace duct heat shield & think I'll need the elbow to make it work. I hope it's worth the extra cost, but I've had the time to shop hard on pricing. I got the BHAF from ebay motors. First I googled the part numbers then when one search took me to ebay motors, I searched Fram CA6818 (or Wix 46637 or Donaldson ECB085011) again. I compared the full delivered prices in each case. http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from=R40&_trksid=p3872.m39.l1313&_nkw=Fram+CA6818&_sacat= Costs: 29.99 + 11.03 S&H = 41.02 B & C Auto parts warehouse (reciept) 570-658-2052 Recently found another mouse nest in an ATV... belt housing & air cleaner. (Dear wifee blew the belt in the ATV. I didn't 'say' much (smoke rising from ears) but she bought the new belt. I have the belt on but haven't been able to get that cover back on yet. So cold that the metal sticking to my hands.) They've left the stock airbox alone in the CTD but have trashed the insulation in all our vehicles. I've screened the other air cleaners. They've left the air cleaner alone on the JD tractor but have trashed the seat backrest.

ISX,I've seen those bypass thermostats in Marine applications... because they had wet exhausts... some cooling (sea) water had to flowing out at all times to keep from burning out the reinforced rubber exhausts. When the thermostast opened, more water flowed out. I tried a good 160 bypass in a old Jeep wagon I had... had a Buick engine... overheated instantly. A new thermostat of conventional design fixed it. What does the book call for? Russ

Just bought the filter in the illustration. I shopped all over & got it for 41.02 to my door. Having the interchange list was a huge help for searching the different brands & part numbers. Thanks, Mike!Santa's going to bring me an elbow.Russ

I can't monitor all these parameters but I am still basically stock so my overhead is still accurate. I can be getting say 17.5mpg when I shut down, as soon as I cold start, the AVERAGE mpg drops to say 17.3-17.4 and run that way for several miles (5-10 ??). Once I am warmed up, the mpgs will over a 20 mile trip, creap back up. I've never checked how far but it certainly is my impression that it's much less with the cold front on. You may be right. The thermostat is not open. It could just be the cold air blowing over the block, plus suckng every bit of heat possible out through the heater. Unless I'm towing the TT in summer my temp guage climbs to the center mark & hovers there +/- a needle width. I guess the worth of the cold front it open to debate... but I'm keeping mine.Russ

I have a parallel thread on the BHAF I'm planning. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3186-Plumbing-the-BHAF?p=25179#post25179 It seemed like your thread was going somewhere else & I didn't want to hijack it. Besides the links on my thread, I've seen lots of nice sealed airboxes. Some metal others plexi. I don't seem to have the links saved. As I see it, the problem is a filter needs to be enclosed & sealed to the outside and that is hard to do with a filter as big as BHAF. I saw one "soup kettle" intake picts on a 3rd Gen. I even thought of doing so myself. But I decided NOT to seal my intake to the outside/ducts/etc. Best Wishes, Russ

Yes, something like that! When the downpour stops, I'm going to play with the location & angles some more. I found the foam between the cowel rubber & the hinge has deteriorated & I'll have to do something there, lest it dump rain on the BHAF. The first thing that comes to mind is self stick foam door gasket... however many layers are necessary. Still coming down with buckets on it, wind pushing it. No complaints, it won't requiring shoveling. Russ --- Update to the previous post... I had been planning to add an OuterWears Prefilter to a future order... but the mice have trashed all the underhood insulation (I removed all the attractive mouse habitat on the hood itself a while ago)... but nothing is safe out there. I'm thinking that the BHAF itself is screened... If I put an OuterWears over it... I bet it would get all chewed up. HATE DEM CRITTERS!! NO, I'll not provide more expensive nesting material for rodents if I can help it. I thought of screening the BHAF but that kind of defeats the purpose. Better I should figure this out now than after the money's spent. Russ

I've heard that one can run an AirDog 100 on the OEM fuel pickup without dropping the tank. Does the 150 (same price) need a larger pickup? In either case, if they excees the volume required for the VP44, there must be a return line. Where does that plumb in? Talking pump on the frame below the tank.Russ

ISX,I really like that digital guage over your dash cluster. That's what I want to do when I put my guages in. Very slick.Interesting about the warm up. I wonder what the IAT (at the manifold) do under these conditions. I've always believed that the winter front or blocking the radiator for that matter would raise the air temp at the filter. What are you running for a filter & where does it draw from? My thought has been that drawing prewarmed air would reduce the time on the cold engine rich setting. This is very interesting data.Thankyou.(Glad you found some pants)Russ

I had to shop all over to get clear kerosene for my camp heater. I tried the red dyed stuff... I was changing the wick in the middle of the week. Clear burns just fine. I have bought off road out back at a oil company, to run in my JD410. I don't know if it was dyed but I think not. I'd not run dyed in my truck, given the trouble it would cause.

Actually, I know Santa is bringing me a new girl-in-the-box (GPS). I hope the old one is not jealous. The Magellan (nice unit but the high cost of updates & not knowing if the I95 "Iway" relocation will even be on it) convinced me to retire "Blondie". (Named after a waitress at the local diner... ) The new Tomtom has lifetime updates... apparently issues updates frequently. Santa's also given permission for me to buy some upgrades for my CTD, so all is not lost. Lots of deals right now & free shipping deals. With the rush of holiday shipping... deliveries are ramped up by the delivery companies holiday help. Russ

I hope this was the right thing to do... It seemed like too good a deal to pass up. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-2nd-gen-all-products/342727-2000-02-hts-47re-ultimate-duty-valve-body.html I have other irons in the fire first but will need to eventually upgrade the 47RE.

I want to install the BHAF further onto the fender than typical. I like this heat slick heat shield. Furnace duct heat shield: http://www.directcon.net/drkayak/Ram/Heat%20Shield But further onto the fender. But then the OEM flexi intake tube will be too short & angled wrong. I found rubber eblows... but that would require 4 more clamps & 2 metal or plastic tubing pieces. I was wanting a clean install. Rubber elbows in all sizes: http://store.airflo.com/nextpage.html Nice Custom Metal extension elbow: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/143145-bhaf-7.html but is not something I could do myself. http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-9798-Degree-Polished-Aluminum/dp/B001OMK4R2/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2AHHC3DE5ITYS&colid=1QKBZCL48WMAO Well, I guess I can manage a couple of hose clamps. LOL! A Spectre part. A mandrel bent piece of tubing would be delightful, if it would fit... but I don't see any in my price range. Or does one just hit the local plumbing supply? I have found additional sources. Summit Racing offers some Spectre intake parts... I found even more Spectre items on Amazon. This is going to take some careful test fitting, measuring & by guess & by gosh, but I'm closer. Your thoughts are appreciated. Russ

Q: Since I'm ONLY concerned with mid-range power towing... +/- 2000 RPMs... Would a wastegate modification be needed?

This is going to a garage to get done but the better information I give them, the happier we all are. IF I get down on the ground these days, I might not get back up... Several years ago, I did install the HiddenHitch right in the driveway... the stock 4X4 is pretty high. A lot of folks think it has been lifted.

I have a BHAF on order. Fram CA6818 supposedly made for Fram by Donaldson... best deal I could get. I'll have to figure out how to keep the stock airbox scews from wrecking the new filter. I've been unhappy with the OEM airbox since my truck came back from the dealer with a cracked (filtered air) cover which they denied. I superglued it but have never been confident with it since. I'd had enough of that place, since they'd already failed to latch my hood right & it blew up about a mile up the highway (talk about exciting!) They replaced the hinges, I made the fish my SS steel wool out of the trash (stuffed behind the hinges to keep mice out of the cowel vents). They dented the fender as the pressure point when their guy forced the higes back enough to drive back there. Place is no longer a dealership... Once the BHAF gets here I'll be looking to put some support on the fender. Russ

I didn't think it was possible to reach the withdrawal fitting without moving something. Where does the return line go then? T the tank vent? The foam & excess fuel have to go somewhere...Thankyou so much for this information.Russ

What choices are there? Can I avoid accessing the top of the tank (dropping the tank or lifting the bed)?

My 01.5 automatic RE47 has the HY turbo. Yes, I can hear it whisle fairly early even if not a lot of punch that soon.

Dear Santa,I've been a good boy. Please bring me a Cummins Turbo Diesel for Christmas. I know you like red, so do I. Red would be nice.

Running the winter front does "warm" the whole underhood area. Remember, a diesel is heat (compression) fired... so warming the air increases the IAT speeding warm up. In winter, I think faster warmup is preferable to lower EGT, which actually makes sense. The stock intake is through the fender & drawing air from behind the R headlight. This area does get warmed as it is behind the winter front. The bumper openings remain open so there is still some fresh air flow. With the cardboard across the radiator, the air intake is ahead of your baffle so the intake air will be colder. I'd rather draw plenty of warm air volume than block the radiator & coolers & draw almost no airflow. I just see it as keeping the everything in balance. Blocking the radiator may actually warm the truck up faster since there is darn little air flow. I did see a post recently about what it took to keep the truck at correct temperature... and that a working heater could handle the heat in some circumstances. Perhaps someone else will find the thread.I'd be interested in same truck, same day comparisons... very hard to compare different trucks, drivers, days. In the end, it's what ever works for you.Russ

I'm planning to add an XZT+ before towing season. I really need to upgrade the lift pump before I get into towing again. So I'm weighing the options vs cost. I'd like to do this once... I'm not going racing but need to tow properly... can never be sure what that'll take until I've done it. Airdog vs Raptor?Should I go for the draw straw & big line?Russ

I'm always a bit surprised at the drop in MPGs with my single axle landscaper's trailer... empty. I've greased & readjusted the wheel bearings. Grease was fine & they were not too tight. It's not as bad as the horse trailer or ToyHauler (Huge flat front, worst). It would seem that turning a 4 extra bearings should not be that much drag.

I'm still running the OEM thermostat. Temp goes to mid guage & pretty much stays within a needle width of that spot when I'm running. A winter front shortens the time to reach that temp but the motor is still running on the thermostat.

Blackmail always works for me.

Well, I took my camper on a few jaunts this year... I was pulling 10s. The trailer has all of the aerodymanics of a brick & it seems pretty darn heavy. I'm planning to take it by the truck stop scales in the Spring, in fact. But then I have 4:10 gears & my best mpgs running empty & babying it (40-50) is 18.7. I don't know your weight or windage... and winter fuel... I'd be disappointed too but not overly surprised.My old Chevy is gone now. C30, camper special, 454, built, towing cam, Edelbrock intake, 650 AFB, headers, 3:73s got 11. It didn't matter towing heavy or running empty, it got 11.