That Guy

I was considering that honestly, but it cleaned up enough for me not to care. The diesels carpet is (was? maybe daimler changed that) different than the gas. I forget specifically. Maybe it's the jute, or the rubber, or maybe the thickness of said materials? Be aware before buying.

So, this has happened about 4 times now. Took the truck for a little test ride about 1/8 mile down the road and back. Sitting in the driveway, and all of a sudden the truck gets louder. The first time, the whole muffler just dropped out where I parked. Second time, I just came disconnected from the front. Third time it came out like this. I got it back in, drove through gate to go to the pasture, and the tail section fell out of the back. This all started because I put the factory turbo/dp back in and it changed the position of the pipe about 4 inches forward. I think I'll be visiting a truck shop and seeing if they have any 4" straight sections for a decent price here soon. As a side note, I have maybe 2 hours of just putting around the pasture in the heat of the day and the A/C is fabulous. I'm not having the best of luck getting myself motivated to do ball joints. It needs them, but it hasn't been re registered yet so it's not like I'm taking loads down the highway just yet. Also from about 2 months ago, I pressure washed the carpet when I replaced the dash. It was very nasty. And the dash itself. I didn't realize at the time that there was a light and dark grey option, but having a dash that isn't disintegrating more than makes up for it.

As mopar said, what are we dealing with here? But as a general rule..... A cat back exhaust isn't typically going to affect the warranty, other than the part being replaced. When in doubt, call FCA about warranty. Dealerships are almost clueless in my experience unless they are contacting the mothership directly.

Should be a sticker on the hood that has all the information on it.

I did the fluid change on my chevy and chunks came out the size of my thumb nail. It has a auto locker. I did not see any damage anywhere. It doesn't make any noise. Closed it up, filled with fluid, and the locker even still works. Tow about 4k lbs with it on occasion. I still wonder where the chunks came from. It being a fourth vehicle..... I'm not sure I want to know.

If acid build up is a concern, look for an oil that has a high TBN (total base number). Can always send it off at the 3 year mark and see what they say. They make additives specifically for the TBN, I cannot say how well they work, never personally used them for that purpose.

Gotta love that salt. Does sound like a new pump may be in order then.

In the 2012, seem perfectly fine. In theory, there shouldn't be an issue on the 94-02's but, they have notoriously weak windows.

That benzforce doesn't look to bad, and with a budget constraint I would get it. If I was to spend the DAP money, I would probably look at a 62mm.

There are used questionable ones on ebay in the $300-600 range. Same with the he351...... there are also the $150-200 ones...... There's a guy on cummins forum running one with like 10k miles on it. I still don't know that I trust a $200 "new" turbo. I even saw a "hx35" reman that the compressor housing said wh1c on it, so, theres that.

The newer style is the one that slips into the channel. Have the in channel on the 2012, and the outside style on the 97. I like both, but the in channel seem like they will last longer.

With a welder, all sorts of things start to look feasible. Going to an HX40 DP also opens up the world to a lot more turbo options as well. Keep in mind that the 351's were built with trucks that have backdrop exhaust manifolds in mind. Ours are all center and angled. As such, the charge air pipe and downpipe will need some attention. Really, even going to an HX35 will be a good improvement if you want something cheap to tide you over that is essentially bolt in with no work.

The sell decent 4" turbo back kits as straight pipes for somewhere in the 250-450 range, usually with the downpipe of your choice. all the diesel performance sites have em. Getting the old system off is a lot harder than putting the new one on. Took me like 3 hours to remove with hand tools and about 30 minutes to put new in with same tools. See if that's a direction you want to go.

I wish I still knew. I haven't had any luck finding it again. There are several models, and the 10" dia was like $30 more than the 9" when I ordered it. You may have the most luck looking for these models. I would just search for truck shops that sell them. Amazon is seldom a bargain anymore. Should you choose to read it, the stuff below comes from page 66. https://www.donaldson.com/content/dam/donaldson/engine-hydraulics-bulk/catalogs/Exhaust/North-America/F110028-ENG/Exhaust-Product-Guide.pdf M090544 13-18 dB reduction 4" in & out 51" total and 9" diam (i think this is what i have) 1158 cfm @ 1"hg https://www.raneystruckparts.com/9-muffler-mak2191mf-m090544/?sku=20800&gclid=CjwKCAjwyo36BRAXEiwA24CwGYVh8-8eGMIzxrDMhpf3Q-dSL9WFMrcUaSwqbqi-xXFQ9Wz4l3qY5RoC27cQAvD_BwE ~$95 M100464 25-35 dB 820 cfm M100466 12-18 dB 1125 cfm http://triplertruckparts.com/m100466-donaldson-muffler/ ~$170

I will throw my hat in for the donaldson muffler I have. They are typically only seen on class 8 stuff. It is straight through with absolutely no drone and nothing audible from the cab. Fully welded, and it is 51" long and 9" in diameter. If you are in a tunnel or near a building with the windows down, it sounds a bit like a muffled Kenworth. I'm unsure if they have it in stainless, but worth a look. Mine cost about $70 shipped several years back. As for turbo, the more modern equivalent would probably be a he351cw off a 03-07 truck. I know the VGT off of the 07.5+ trucks can take an hx40 down pipe, I want to say the non vgt will too, but don't hold me to that. The he351cw is a 60/58/9 and hy35 is 54/58/9. The 351 is a decent upgrade without being too crazy. Will support 350-400 continuous.

Oddly enough, same experience. Also correct me if I'm wrong, but isnt the primary form of abs for rears that little manifold with the 2 white cylinders that sits under the master cylinder and is plumbed in after the valve that turns on the brake light? The 2 white cylinders are accumulators that allow it to vent pressure from the line are the not? I have seen the proportioning valve above the rear axle, but I always thought it was more of an initial limiter as it doesn't have the allocation to vent pressure once there. True that if it has missing hardware, the rear brakes will be sub par. (My linkage was gone when I got my truck. The arm was free to hang, and what little brakes it had back there were ineffectual.) My 94 chevy with RWAL has the same thing under the master but does not have the proportioning valve on the rear axle.

If you still have good brakes and the steering still has poor assist, it likely isn't the pump. They really do not like dirty fluid. Not a bad idea to flush the whole thing, you may find a good flush has it back to normal.

I know of two in the local pull a part in shreveport. If you don't have luck sourcing one, I'm willing grab one and ship. Shipping probably be $30 or so. The sway bar is probably abound $30 as well.

I had a set of 20 year old ISSPro that came with the truck. At some point over the 4 years the truck was parked, the pyro gauge face broke loose internally. I wanted to go back with ISSPro but I just didn't like the graduations of the gauge face. I wanted something that matched the stock gauges a bit closer. The Autometers do, though, they already don't appear to be quite as accurate as the ISSPro's. The boost gauge is slightly less sensitive at low boost, and the pyro is reads about 5% warmer at idle.

There is a valve Between the front and rear circuit, but not left to right. Does the wheel pull at all when braking? Sure the rotor isn't warped? Are the slides for the caliper properly greased and free through the range of movement? (I have thought I did in the past and caused an initial pull to the right)

It is advised to invest in actual gauges. Head studs are not needed until around the 450-500hp mark and many people are still running stock headbolts. Timing is important when considering studs. Believe it or not, the loudest part of the engine isn't the valve train, but it is solid flat tappet. The gear train on the front is a huge noise maker. These are inherently loud engines. It would not be easy to put hydraulic lifters, but they do make roller tappets and rockers but $$$$$$.

It's not for everyone, but if you like to tinker a little, the he351ve vgt off the newer trucks is a small upgrade. Me78569 has a full build/parts list thread for a 24v truck. The exhaust brake is a nice feature, and what ultimately attracted me to it. I was able to do 55 up Mont Eagle with no heat issues with power left and then maintain 55 down the other side without touching the brakes while towing ~10,000lbs. If you have tried all the other things and still want more, it's an idea.

Do you also have hydroboost brakes?

I think the rest has been mostly covered. Twin turbos are, for this purpose, plumbed in series so that the air flows from one then to the other and finally to the engine. Same in reverse for the exhaust. The idea is that the smaller one spools fast to make up the gap of the larger one. The result is more clean power without the lag. That said, there are many cheaper and easier things that the others here have mentioned. In the NC hills I bet you are either on or off the throttle. I was always doing 70 down and 40 up.

I never really cared for nathan. Loud is one thing, timbre gets peoples attention. I have been looking for either an S3 or S5 from leslie for years. Everything nathan makes is built to new codes for a maximum dB output pre the FRA. The minimum is 96, the max is 110dB. The S3/5 are antiques and were the loudest ones made. I believe they top out at 120-125dB at 100 feet. There is a 3 chime on ebay for less than the nathan from HB. Just look up leslie train horn. Also may look for the nathan p3 and p5 too. Also older and doesn't meet new regulations.