hd99fxr3

John in a pinch you can do the following in the camp site. You'll need to be careful about cleaning up any moisture afterwards. But you could turn the grill on, or oven to 300 deg or less ( won't hurt the temper in the steel), put the bearings in the heat. Buy some dry ice and a cheap cooler. Put the carrier in the cooler for a long enough period that the metal is chilled all the way through (think hours and hours not mins.) The bearings will slip right on, with maybe some gentle persuasion. Of course the problem would be getting the old bearings off the carrier first. But again I'm thinking rented bearing puller and something stout enough for the puller to push against. It would work if you had to do it that way.

Just goes to show what a little imaginative thinking will do for you.

If the diff fluid is burnt, you have a problem. Even if there are other problems in the drive line, you don't have long on the diff fluid.

Wyoming, Montana, South Dakota. Great places to visit, I'd live there if I could find a job. The largest employers in those areas is the school districts.

Thats a negative, the CR is a bit differant from a 24V. Just put the water pump in today, took longer to figure out how to get to it, than to do it. I'll do a complete write up later.

When you say behind the turbo. Are you talking between the turbo and the block or the literal, behind the turbo towards the firewall? There is one low on the block behind (literal) the turbo, that is in great shape. Since I put a wrench on the pump bolts, it hasn't leaked any more that I can see. Hope that is all it was.

It's already been replaced by the previous owner. The hex heads on the screws are buggered a bit. I replaced the radiator hoses a couple of months ago, and you are right the lower is an unmitigated S.O.B.!!!!!!! I have since bought a special type hose clamp plier, that basicly has a fixture on the end of a cable. You put the fixture over the prongs of the clamp and squeeze the pliers until you have made the clamp big enough the slide off. The pliers have a ratcheting pawl lock on it so as you squeeze, the pliers lock in place. About $45-$50 and worth every penny for that job.

I was born in Dayton but I got down to SC as fast as I could.

That's what I was hoping to hear.

I'm right there with your line of thinking. I know awhile back we had a discussion about adding Cetane boosters to the fuel. It was grudgingly admitted by Mike and others that adding Cetane to a '06 with the third injection event, may in fact be beneficial. I did in fact try some and gained mpgs on the 150 mile round trip I do to go to work. The problem seems to be in diesels that the milage is getting killed to meet emissions, with a multi pronged attack. First you have lowered compression to reduce heat (NoX), Then you have the piston dome redesigned to achieve, something???, Injector nozzle redesign to coinside with piston redesign, and then you have cam timing event changes to hold exhaust gases in the cylinder to again reduce heat (NoX), and finally injection timing, and added injection events to again quell heat (NoX). Oops almost for got the turbo changes. It is pretty clear as to why the 24v engines in general, and the 3rd and 4th gens in particular, don't fair as well. It's the cost to undo, the efficency killing enhancements to our engines, that will stall out any major effort to undo what .gov has foisted upon us. To get the efficency back all you have to do is, change the cam, pistons, injectors, turbo, and ECM / PCM programing to get them back to getting good efficency from a gallon of fuel. Problem is who has that kind of scratch lying around, without feeling a mortal sense of loss when it's gone. You will never get an ROI, and you can buy alot of fuel over the life time of the truck, without really making a dent, in the pile of cash you saved by not doing the mods to get the efficency back.

Welcome to the club. Great bunch of people here, that are anxious and willing to help.

I know that :banghead:. It's the, [getting to the two bolts] that seems to be my problem. With the belt, and the Radiator support??? in the way, it's almost impossible to get to the lower bolt. And moving the belt doesn't look like it would give much better access. I'm probably over thinking it.

When I pull out of the garage in the morning, I can see coolant on the garage floor ( pass. side front of truck).Crawled underneath yesterday to see if I could see where it is coming from. No luck there, although the drops are coming off the front corner of the block on the pass. side. In looking from the top, I see evidence of coolant around the water pump housing, but it is dry, with a shiny glaze over it. So I'm thinking loose bolts on the pump. Not so, says the wrench on the bolts. Basing this statement on the hoops I had to jump through yesterday to get to the bottom bolt. The water pump is going to be a SOB to change, unless I'm missing something obvious. I know the belt has to be undone, which I didn't do yesterday. What else is there, to be removed? Alternator?Anything else you can thing of that would drip coolant from that area? New radiator hoses a couple of months ago. No signs of leakage on the lower coming out of the block.

OK, my '06 has both. If I push the button once, the transmission goes into tow/haul mode (read out on dash) and changes the shift pattern. Push the button the second time and the trans drops out of O/D and the "O/D off" wording lights up on the dash. Push the button again and transmission goes into normal operation. Is this normal on the "06 and up. Or something the PO had done via a download?

Now you've ruined everything for me. I was following along hoping to learn something, and you turn Techno geek on me. Now I'm lost.

I'm with Mike. You either have a bad ground or short in the wiring, or a problem with the starter.

The Dakota's of that era, had transmission issues with moderate to high milage.

If it has a turbo it is a 4BT-3.9liter, if no turbo it is a 4B-3.9liter. Add two clinders and you have the same engine basicly that's in your truck. Good solid work horses.

John, I have found that I have some sweet spots running 75-80 nets me the same or slightly better MPGs as 68-72mph. 72-74mph the milage falls off 0.5-0.7 mpgs. 62-67mph sucks compared to any speed higher up to 80mph. At 55-61 mph, mpgs shoot up 4-5mpg higher than 62 and up. This hand calculated data is derived on a 150 mile round trip staying with in the ranges mentioned above for the whole trip. So over the last 5 months of making this trip, I have had time to do the ranges repeatedly, on the same stretch of interstate. So I would say that with your travel trailer hooked up, the airflow over and around your whole rig is perhaps laminier at the higher speeds, with drag induced by the trailer, causing you to use more go pedal to hold speed. At the slower speeds the drag induced by the trailer front is reduced, but you now have turbulence between the cab of the truck and the front of the trailer, as well as directly behind the trailer. These two areas of turbulence want to go laminier, but cannot, do to slower truck speed. The power needed to over come the turbulance is such that you need the same amount of go pedal as you did at the higher speed. I know I'm kind of rambling here but , think about the myth that was proven to be false. That having the tailgate down helped fuel milage. It in fact hurt mpgs because of the increased turbulence behind the vehical, trying to pull it backwards. With the tailgate closed a ball of air built up in the bed and allowed the air to flow in a laminier fashion around the truck, reducing turbulence (drag).

I have seen instances where too much fuel in the cylinder has caused that to happen. but it is generally acompanied by bent connecting rods as well. The only way to know for sure is to pull the head. Chances are bent pushrods are not all thats wrong.

Not pulling my truck but do use my truck to tow my pulling tractor to events. 4 third place, 1 second place and 5 first place showings.Pulling is all about hitch height, distance of pull point from rear axle, weight placement, tire pressure and guessing right on track condition. Basicly in that order. Two pounds less or of air pressure can make the difference between being in first vs third place or worse, for example.This is on the way to winning the 8500 lb class last saturday

Well I'll stand corrected. Everything I saw yesterday called the sensor on the rear axel a wheel speed sensor. And the VSS as being mounted on the trans mission case. Must have been looking at 1500 information. :banghead:

Well the standing on your head to work on it part is a given but I unclearly meant that, you don't need to go to MMI to be able to overhaul one, if the engine goes bad or something of that nature. Just undo the connections and pull it out, put it on the engine stand and go to work. Blocks, heads, cranks and cams are readily available from the automotive side. Might not match a casting number, but it'll mount up and get you back on the water. I also made sure to put in that it was my and not somebody elses. I don't think John's not talking about a inland waterway boat he's talking about a saltwater rig, or at least one that will work well in that environment. Based on his past post's about his fishing and camping spots, and a possible move to FL. Each has there own opinions about boats. I still stand by mine.

I always heard that the two happiest days in a man's life was the day he got his boat and the day he sold it. The easiest to work on are the inboard / outboard, with the engine inside the boat and the stern drive outside the hull. All of this type configuration will have a modern 4 stroke automotive type engine from GM or Ford. Gas hogs everyone to include the outboard only type. All are maintenance nightmares, once things start to wear out, from continual use in a wet environment, or from not using them enough, so that the seals dry out or the grease oil sets up. Anyway you go it's $$$$$ to own a boat. You have storage issues, taxes, insurance, licensing fees, expensive fuel, expensive everyting.Your better off renting for the day out of a marina.

That would be a great job