diesel4life

I'm surprised the stoners didn't beat you to em

I'm assuming you mean before you leveled the front? Did you retain the factory height suspension with the longer coils?

I think they dropped the ball on the gear choices in the second gens. 4.10s are probably a necessity for the guys hauling at or close to max gcvw, but IMO the 3.55s being the only other option are just too high. They're ok for cruising down the highway Empty but that's not the reason I bought my truck to begin with. The 3.73 Would have been a much better option IMO.

How about the stock length suspension, is it OK or would I be pushing the limits with a 2 to 2 and a half inch lift? I just put a set of Bilsteins on it over the winter, I'm hoping I don't have to cash em in already How much will it affect my alignment if any?

That's all mine is as well, a Raptor motor that I bolted onto an AD100 (they are the exact same motors)No I didn't just put a sticker on an AD :wink:3/8" line from top of tank to pump,1/2" line from lp to fuel canister and vp. I would have ran 3/8 the whole way but 1/2" was only a few bucks more.Even when I had my Raptor block mounted I generally saw a 2 to 3 psi drop under hard aacceleration,. maybe 4 psi under the heaviest loads and Heavy acceleration.

It sounds to me like your spot on. 55 Mph locked in third at around 2000 to 2100 rpm. 4Th gear at 70 mph is 1800 to 1900rpm. My speedo is also corrected and checked with a gps. When towing heavy I generally lock out OD unless I am on the freeway. I will run third gear up to 2300 rpm steady, maybe a tad higher if needed.

I've been really considering picking one up for my 98 For a mild upgrade. From what Ive seen advertised I could get a good used vgt and 6.7 Manifold for 300 to 400 dollars and a stand a lone controller for roughly the same. So for around 800 bucks I could have an upgraded turbo and an exhaust brake. Just wish I could see it in a 2nd gen truck to see how it performs and if it would be worth the money.

My little AD 100 has 3/8" line ran to the connection at the top of the tank. 18 Psi with 2 to 3 psi drop under heavy load. I don't have the pressure drop that other people claim.

Nope, long as she's willing I didn't realize this model bumper was so common! Thanks for all the pics though it really gives me an idea of what it will look liie on my truck. He had already had it removed when I went to look at it so your pictures put it into perspective alot better - - - Updated - - - So are you saying you use stock height springs with spacers? - - - Updated - - - How do you rate the ride on them? How about when towing? My off roading is limited to crawling around the fields and a lot of back roads. I also need someting that will still handle decent with a trailer in tow.

So what's the consensus coils or spacers? is there a difference in ride quality between the 2?

Yep, that's the same bumper I picked up. I was pretty close I was guessing it was every bit of 275 pounds. OOps, I was supposed to quote 97 turbo, don't know how I quoted myself Anyways, that's the one!

I know nothing about rv's in general, but I have to question the logic here. Buying new, nobody has ever slept in it, abused it, drug it all over gods creation, etc. If there are any problems, you have a warranty to cover your tail. Now say you buy a used model all the previous mentioned is up in the air, the problems could be 10 fold from shoddy maintenance and lack of care. On another forum a guy just posted a picture of his not very old camper he just purchased. The previous owner did not keep up on the roof, it developed leaks and literally rotted the entire back wall out. What started out as a simple repair he ended up ripping the entire rear of the rv apart to replace the structure. Like buying a vehicle you have to choose carefully but there are lot's of unknowns involved as well.I've never been in favor of purchasing anything new simply because it's hard for me to justify the cost, and I hate going into debt if I don't absolutely have to. The best deals out there are generally in The 3 to 5 year old range but buying new certainly does have it's advantages if you can afford it. In your case Hex, I understand your dissapointment and I sure hope they rectify it for you.

Sounds like you need to throw a crank sensor at it and you'll be good to go.

I Came across a pretty decent deal on a Ranch Hand and pulled the trigger. I ended up trading a well worn set of tires with about 35k miles on them And 300 bucks. I've been looking at them for quite a while but could never justify the cost, this is the best deal I have come across locally and I couldn't pass on it. A little leary about all the extra weight hanging off the front but well see how it goes. I can already tell by the weight of it either a spacer or a longer set of coils is going to be in order, not sure which route I'm going to go with yet. I was hoping to get it on this weekend but it's not going to happen, hopefully by next weekend. Here's a little peak at it for the time being though. [ATTACH=CONFIG]5975[/ATTACH

I agree a boost leak couls cause many of the symptoms your describing

Since it is a bypass system and not a full flow filter I can't see how it would hurt anything. You just need to make sure to get the right sized system. They go by capacity in quarts.

Hmm, half the vehicles you own are auto :tongue: The older auto's like the 47 are definitely inferior to a standard but having recently driven a 6. Speed auto with a good engine brake I'd be throwing rocks at a manual if I had my choice. They are an awesome transmission.

If the truck is driving fine then it is all bled out. I've never heard of a pressure drop with new filters, that's a new one.

Welcome to the forum Brian. That's very refreshing to hear from a reliable source that udc is indeed in the works for us 2nd gen guys

Make sure your not getting slop in your shift linkage and your not hitting your safety switch when you put it in park to shut the truck off. Next time it happens, just wiggle your shifter a little or put it in neutral and try it again. I agree it most likely your starter but just throwing it out there since nobody else mentioned it.

Hey Russ, is your solar charger rated for your batteries? We have one on an old Gruman van with a solar charger that literally will sit for weeks or longer, and fires right up everytime. The battery is pushing 10 years old.

Are you sure all the air is bled from the system? The filters should not decrease pressure unless theyre plugged.

Hex, have you explained your living situation to them? At the least they should offer you a loaner to pick up while they are fixing the problems on yours. Hopefully you get everything resolved.

I don't think dropping the pan will get you much over 5 quarts. Disconnect the cold side trans cooler line at the rad, put on a short piece of 1/2" hose on the barb at the radiator and stick it in a bucket. Set the park brake or chalk the wheels, start the engine and shift the trans into neutral. This will push the fluid into the bucket. As soon as the flow of trans fluid starts to slow, shut the truck off. Probably easier and quicker to have an assistant in the truck while you watch the bucket that way they can shut the truck down quickly. This method will generally drain 10 to 12 quarts, and the majority of the fluid in the pan will be gone making it easier and less messy to drop. You can simply drop the pan and replace what you drain, but that is only a fraction of the fluid thats in there. Kind of like only changing half your engine oil.