diesel4life

What kind of warranty did it come with? How many miles did it last? I wonder if you got a fluke, or if possibly the 8psi was simply too much pressure for the pump, being they generally see suction and not positive pressure on the inlet side...

I believe those were in the Grand Cherokee. I helped a friend with a swap one time and that rings a bell. I would get on a good Jeep forum and do some researching you will probably find what your looking for. Or possibly call a Chrysler dealership with your numbers and they may be able to help you

Hey Mike, was there ever a TSB to get rid of the bottle? I bought my 98.5 From an elderly man (died at 86 and his son sold me the truck). He bought the truck new and had all the maintenance and repairs done at the dealer. Like I mentioned above, mine simply had a section of hose coming out of the breather.

I take it you hail from Massachussetts First time I ever heard that name I was visiting a friend in Maine and someone with Mass. plates cut in front of us. He said some other explicits but "Masshole" really stood out

Fuel can also cause a white smoke, usually from low pressure (failing ip or injectors)I agree with pop test on injectors and compression test on all cylinders while injectors are out, hopefully you haven't caused anymore damage from running so low on oil

Not sure when they started with the bottle, my 98.5 came with a short section of hose coming out of the breather. They still make a mess if nothing is done with them.

New Process Gear was founded as a joint partnership between GM and Chrysler but they also manufacture for certain Ford vehicles as well. Is there any kind of number stamped in the body of the case? should be a 3 digit number in the 200's, like 201, 271, etc.

What kind of temps are you seeing? May consider changing out your thermostat and if your not sure of the trucks history give it a good flush/coolant change. Also look over your radiator hoses carefully for signs of deteoriation

I think I would do the 17 lb spring. I'm pretty sure the spring in mine has been cut down because it was reading a very low pressure to begin with. I added a few washers and have it up to 15-16 psi at idle and the only trip I've made hauling dads tractor I watched it drop down to 13 pulling some steep grades. I'ts not a big deal to change it out later, but makes for a pretty big mess.

Thats where a big steel bumper comes in handy, so you can punt the cart at the offender. If an airborne cart at 20 mph doesn't get the point across, nothing will!

Been driving the truck to work more lately, ran 403 miles before I filled up, she took 19.3 gallons for an avg of 20.8 mpg. That's rural driving, anywhere between 55 and 65 mph. Thats about as good as I can get, or as good as I have seen anyway.

I don't know about the ADII but on the AD Raptor the external regulator is nothing more than a hollow screw the more you turn it in the more fuel is allowed through it which increases pressure. May be different with the ADII because they have a fuel return where the Raptor doesn't

It could very well be the source of your problem. Completely disconnect the quad and clear the code and see what happens.Altoona has some good fishin!

Man that's tough, Without ever being under a regular cab the outside is really the only place I can think of. Unless you don't carry a spare tire, then you could possibly fab some brackets and mount it back there someplace. It would be up high and out of harms way, may be plausible if it's a farm truck but if you take it out on the road it's kind of tough to deal without a spare. Another option I've seen people use that seem to be pretty reliable are the Walbro pumps. No extra filtration which is a negative for me but they are much smaller, which would benefit you, and the 2 people I know that run them have no complaints with them.

Ever consider mounting on the outside of the frame rail? The one major downfall I could see from that is the potential to catch a lot more chit from the front tire, but you could build a simple guard to protect the pump and keep the debris off of it. Mine fit OK on the inside of the rail (quad cab) but I am still going to build a nice protective guard for it out of some stainless plate I've got laying around just to help keep the mud and salt off of it. Personally, if it were my pump and it was just sitting on the shelf, I'd probably install it. You have extra motor laying around (FRRP) in case it goes bad. Between a brand new 100 and the new Raptor your about to acquire on warranty, you should be good to go for a long tim For parts. (See my thread on the raptor conversion). The flip side is to sell it (lose money) then buy something else (spend more money) :banghead:

The one good thing about Ashland is the close proximity of Indian Ridge, Pinnacle Creek, and Pocohontas. To my knowledge there isn't another campground with access to all 3 trail heads. None of those trail systems are as good as the Rock House or Bear Wallow though, IMO. RockHouse is probably my favorite, lots of technical trails which is what we go for. If you ever get up that way to ride, Twin Hollow Campground is by far the best campground I've ever stayed at in that area. It's literally perched on top of a mountain with excellent views all around. The owner of the campground has a Honda Rincon with over 12k miles on it. All hard miles being where they live. That olol Honda looks whooped as all get out but it runs like a champ.

Where are you staying at? We stayed at Ashland, nice campground and the best part is there is access to 3 trail heads from there so once you get there you don't have to worry about driving anywhere. I got elected to haul all the machines up on my 22 ft tilt trailer (27 ft overall) the road coming into the camp ground is very narrow, no shoulders. Requires alot of attention mostly due to other drivers coming head on at high speeds. It's a great place to ride though.

Hopefully you have a way of unloading it on flat ground, chances are you will have to once you get there.Are you talking about Hatfield McCoy? We were just down there in May. Good riding but I like the Rock House better.

Thanks DRipley, that explains the differences. The FRRP is designed to bolt directly in place of the oem lift pump and gets its power through the factory harness, no additional power leads/ relays.

Make sure your adjustment on the left side of the controller is level, that will greatly affect the braking output. If you slide the manual brake lever, does the wheels lock up?Also, make sure the magnets are in good condition and the drum face where the magnets contact are clean.

This brings up a concern for me being I just re routed my pump to the rear of my truck. Looking at install instructions for the AD100, I noticed a separate harness for a 12 volt source as well as a relay along with a harness to extend the factory ecm harness back to the pump. The instructions I found on the net were very vague, but I assumed the 12. Volt supply and relay were for the pressure sender that's on the pump. Is this not correct? Sorry for the derail rancherman

The way I understand it, the 150 spins a much higher rpm than the 100 and the Raptor. With that being said, I really don't know if you could source just a motor through them, without buying an enrire pump?It would be nice.

I wonder why the pump would be so hot? Possibly a restriction on the inlet side plugging the pump up? There is a small screen on the suction side...That's a real bummer, I just cashed in on my 11 month old pump as well... started leaking fuel internally and seeping through the rubber grommet around the harness.

Finally got around to getting my raptor conversion installed, plumbed, and wired. I installed new filters, and since I had an old pump with an extra receptacle I made my own harness rather than spending close to 100 bucks on one through them. The only thing I didn't like the looks of was the spring in the return line, it looks like it has been cut down by the p.o. and was barely making contact with the fitting once I screwed it in. So I added a washer right from the get go, once I got it running it was still pretty low at around 10 psi. By squeezing the return line I could make the pressure come right up so I added 2 more washers (3 total) Its still barely making 16 psi at idle, I'm thinking I just need to order the correct spring and be done with it rather than keep adding washers although it probably doesn't make a difference. Haven't had a chance to really run it yet, will get a chance tomorrow when I run over to PA to pick up dads tractor. BUT IT'S ALIVE![ATTACH=CONFIG]5783[/ATITH]

That eqautes to roughly 32 dollars a gallon That is more than double what most people can buy it for in the US and more than what I would be willing to spend.