diesel4life

Thank you for clearing that up! I'll bet there was some kind of confusion on his part, hence the repeated referrals to ATF.

I don't know if you have access to a 220 volt source, if you do I highly recommend buying one.,IMO the 110 volt units arent worth buying. They're just too limited to what you can weld with. A 220 volt, 160 to 180 amp unit would make a decent little machine for average jobs around the house. I really wouldn't go any smaller. Also, the picture you posted is a stick welder. That's fine if that's what you want but a MIG unit would be much easier to use for a beginner. Gas shield is preferred.

It seems as though he is no longer involved in the buisiness at all As of April. The last several years he was living in Florida in the winters and leaving the buisiness to a close partner which is why the pumps are no longer built in house. The thing I liked about Chip was his willingness to sit on the phone and talk you through a problem regardless of how long it took. I know I sure picked his brain on a few occasions. Hopefully his partner that he turned the buisiness over to is willing to do the same

Does Chip recommend against any lubricants or just againsT 2 cycle oil? Where did you read that at? There is a link floating around somewhere about a test that was performed in a lab with various different additives/lubricants and 2 cycle oil was one of the lubricants tested. It actually tested very well, better than many big name lubricants. Between the good test results and the relatively cheap cost and availability the 2 cycle oil is the preferred choice for alot of people. Chip has some deep roots with some very influential people in the early days of the CTD, I'm pretty surprised he would be against adding the proper lubricant to the fuel for our trucks.

There was an 06 mega cab on the lot locally here with a sticker price of $30,300 :ahhh:No clue on the mileage, but it sat for less than a month.

You won't be disapointed with the set from A&M. I actually had to use the defrost on mine this morning. It dropped down into the low 40s and a dense fog rolled in. I couldn't even see to back up my mirrors were fogged over so badly. Hit the button and literally watched the dew evaporate within seconds. My 12 yr old oem mirrors were probably tired, they never cleared the lense off that fast

It can certainly be overwhelming to sit and read of all the mods and what each person does and why he does it. Just remember that these trucks rolled out of the factory with no gauges, tuners, and stock sized injectors and many of them stayed that way and ran a long long time. The real important mods in my eyes are the fuel lubricant as todays fuel is so much drier than it was 12 yrs ago and a strong lift pump along with a fuel pressure gauge to make sure you don't have any unfortunate problems and wipe out that new injection pump. Other than that, everything else can wait. Heck you might drive it for a while and decide not to add any performance upgrades. The truck will certainly get on down the road great just the way it is, so try not to fret over it and enjoy the truck! I truly do enjoy geting behind the wheel of my 2nd gen every day. It still brings a smile to my face everytime I lay into the throttle and hear the ol girl build boost. Most of the time I don't even bother turning the radio on, I just crack the window and listen to the music under the hood

When a clean low mileage truck is selling for almost the same price it was stickered at how many years ago, yes it does surprise me. I've never seen that with any other vehicle with the exception of rare collectibles or classics. And up until the newer emissions trucks came out the prices of the older trucks were much more in check. Shoot I bought my 98.5 With 67k miles on the clock for 10k. Now 10k won't get you a truck with less than 250k and chances are the body is falling off of it.

It amazes me how high the resale value of these trucks are. Every generation of the Cummins powered Rams hold their value exceptionally well.

Today would have been a good day to go. On top of the diesel drags was the TDR rally .

There certainly is nothing wrong with the pump you bought, so dont be down on yourself. You could have gotten away with a cheaper unit from Chip but more than likely you would not be seeing the kind of mileage your getting. 550 miles with 3/8 of a tank remaining is doing quite well. I bought the standard SO pump with a new computer from Chip and have seen similar mileage (20 to 21 mpg) but thats also with a Smarty. Running the truck with the Smarty removed definitely decreases my mileage. The Special X pump simply advances timing so you don't have to add a programmer, there are lots of people out there that this pump caters to for that reason. He explains the pro's and con's of each of his pumps pretty thoroughly on his web site.If ever your looking to do some mods now that you have that pump, you might want to consider doing injectors first, then if your still looking for more possibly a programmer like the Smarty where you can run catcher tunes with no added timing. A programmer wont hurt your pump anymore than a standard pump, you just wont see as big a jump in performance since it's already running advanced timing.

The first time I pulled my hubs apart they also seperated. I tried everything I could to get them to come out as a unit but they were froze in there something fierce. Everyone says once that happens theyre toast, but I took them into work and pressed them both back together after cleaning them up and repacking with grease. So far so good with about 20k on the odometer since I re installed them

I kinda wish they would have stuck with the R12

Big Tex does make a nice trailer. Personally I would wait and shop around for a nice used unit, but thats just me. I refuse to buy anything new, you take a hit the second you pull it off the lot regardless of whether it is a car, truck, motorcycle, atv, trailer, etc. I picked up a 2007 Gatormade 14k GVW 22 ft tilt trailer 3 years ago. The guy was asking 2500 bucks for it. The trailer had 4 brand new 10 ply tires, a spare that had never been used, and he even threw in a wd hitch that he used with it. I already had one so I ended up selling it to a friend. I went to look at it and saw that he was into jeeps and building 4x4s. Ended up trading him an engine out of a 78 datsun 280z and a set of Toyota straight axles that I had laying around plus 300 bucks. It worked out pretty close to the cash price he was asking for, and we both got what we wanted. I looked for over a year before I came across that deal, if your patient and can afford to wait you should find something at a good price.

The cap is not vented. There is a small vent on the sending unit on top of the tank. If you suspect a plugged vent you can check by simply leaving the fuel cap loose, as long as your not driving in dusty, muddy, or rainy conditions

Love the elevator music in the background!I have a couple of stray cats floating around I would love to drop in that drum!

It's odd a 3/4 ton weighs less than a 1 ton dually

Given the types of fuel pumps that are available to the diesel market I don't think your going to see any real benefits of running a sump in your tank. Unless your going for that unique factor, just get a good quality after market fuel pump, mount it on the frame, and enjoy it. Pumps like the AD 100 or 150 or similar FASS pumps will provide more fuel than your engine will ever be able to handle

So thats where you've gone wrong Rick!

I see around 625 to 650 at 65 and 3 - 5 lbs boost. You should always be under some type of boost, that makes me think you have got to have a leak somewhere in your piping or possibly even your gauge.

Well you could pull a spark plug and check through there if you cand find one! :lmao:The injector hole is the only access to the cylinder for a test

If you get anywhere near Ocala (I think?) hit up Big Daddy Don Garlits drag racing museum

I like the Spicer joints and have typically had good results with them, although I just had one fail at less than 40k miles. What kind of bike is that? I've got an old Cannondale F500. Head shock, rigid tail. it's ancient now compared to the stuff that's out there now. I bought it back in the mid to late 90's, it was a top of the line bike then, paid around a grand for the frame IIRC. I was in Wyoming at the time, ran lots of races. It was common for me to average 40 to 50 miles in a day and more on a good ride. Now I just putt around with the kids.

All E rated tires are 80 psi max, the wider the tire the higher the weight rating but the pressures will stay the same.

Unless you have lots of injectors laying around it would probably be easier to just buy the adapter. By ruining one injector your basically throwing away an entire set of cores which will cost alot more than buying the adapter. As far as being a pain in the butt, I don't think it would be too much trouble especially if your having problems with an engine and are not sure what the problem is. Compression test will tell you a lot about an engine without tearing it down.....