diesel4life

I'm almost afraid to ask what stopped it...

I have heard similar complaints from friends with Toyos during the first few thousand miles. Those look like pretty deep treads are they a soft compound? Maybe a tad higher pressure next load?

That would be perfect prison food!! No more steak dinners on my dime!!

When you had the Modus connected did you check battery voltage under load? Low voltage can give electrical fits as well as bad grounds.

Generally speaking the wider the tire the higher the capacity. If you look at an E rated tire in OEM size its capacity will be around 3200 lbs vs a 285 tire with an additional 500 lbs capacity (approximately) The only way to stick with a narrower shorter tire and maintain the higher ratings is to increase capacity to a 12-14 ply. I would bet your very close to max RAWR with your new rig.

I missed the part where you mentioned the trans temp getting up that hot while mamaneuvering the trailer until W&F mentioned it so scratch my earlier questions. What you could do in that situation when maneuvering at slow speeds in reverse and 1st is use 4 low it will give you a much better mechanical advantage and you won't be putting anywhere near the stress on your trans. Going a step further would be to do a 2 low mod. A member was recently touching on this issue with his 6 speed and I posted a few pics of my cheap home made 2 low mod. it only cost me around 40. Bucks all together and I find myself using it a lot now that I have it. I will see if I can find the thread later.

Does the truck seem to cut in and out at the same temperatures each time or is it random? Once its up to temp does it run normal? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge for your lift pump?

Was your TC locked when the temps got up to 220? If I am running too low of an rpm to stay in OD I'll generally knock it out with the OD button and run third up to around 2300 to 2400 if I have a heavy load. Third gear locks up that way and it really helps to keep trans temps in check. I hate to say it but I was in the same boat as you until recently with 3.55 Gears and 285/75/16 tires. With the extra tire your giving yourself an even higher gear ratio, I'm sure your aware of that as was I. But I never really realized how much it affected my towing until I picked up a set of 4th gen takeoffs with the factory tire size (265/70/17) My original intentions were to sell the tires as they only had 10k miles on them and step up to a taller tire. But after towing and general driving for a couple of months Ive decided I'm just going to keep them and run them. The truck just feels "lighter" at the steering wheel and the smaller tires got my rpm's back up by 100-200 which is an advantage when your running heavy. I save my 285s for this time of year when I'm out in the fields and running oil field leases for my friend. You still have a little wiggle room on the egt's I've held 1100 to 1200 sustained on some decent hills as long as you stay at or below thaT you will be fine. With my little 40 horse injectors and my Smarty I can easily peg 35 psi but generally run 25-30 on a steep grAde.

It eventually did come around and was very very close when comparing my mileage to hand calculation. Biggest thing is calibrating it like the instructions say, and be patient. It took a few tanks of fuel. My numbers went out the window when I put bigger injectors in. though. I have about 2000 miles on em and no improvement. I haven't had time to look into it so I've just been ignoring it for now

I'm kinda curious myself. I know most TP is "septic safe'

That's a real sh*tty question for you to ask, Hex.

Let me know if you need another source. I ordered one from a guy that builds them out of his garage. Good quality, fair price, and I had the harness in my hands in less than 2 weeks. I'm just using old bulbs (not the recommended ones) and wow! What a difference. Should have done this years ago.

I personally don't have them and have never seen them on a 2nd gen.

Neat AH thanks for posting. Ive always wondered how much weight a w/d really does transfer forward and rear.I would have thought it put more than 100 pounds back on the trailer, thats interesting. Ive got one for my tilt trailer and very seldom haul without it.

I'm not sure what your asking?

Hmm, sounds a little low for a 12 valve?

Since the center caps snap onto the lugnuts and you will have to re use your lug nuts, theres no reason why it shouldnt work. The big difference will probably be the outside diameter of the centers. I'm pretty sure the 3rd gens are larger than the 2nd and the 4th gens are even larger yet. That should not affect anything other than appearance. Personally I think the bigger center cap looks better, but thats just personal preference. If you do get them and decide you want the different caps shoot me a p.m. and I will make a phone call there is a place locally here that I found that can get them. its been a few years and I cant remember the price but would be glad to check on them for you

I've also briefly pegged 35 a few times pulling some nasty grades with my Smarty

The Spinners operate the same you just need to match one to the engines oil volume that your buying it for.

https-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=EX0bYEmEVoM

Have you tried cranking the engine with any injector lines loose to see if your getting any fuel at all?Oops just re read your earlier post. You should be getting fuel there, 1688 and 89 are usually bad ju ju.

If you are planning on selling your programmers I know someone who may be interested in your Smarty. If he has any money this month:doh: I'm hoping he gets one soon so I can stop making excuses on why he can't borrow mine every other weekend. Werent you stacking tuners at one time?

Thats a wild picture Rick!

Going back to my original post you were laughing at that is what I said or at least within 50 HP. That is what I was referencing, the stock vp on his truck:shrug: As for the dragonfires nobody around here that I know has ever ran them why spend 2500 bucks on a pump when you can p pump it like Ryan is doing.