diesel4life

Did you weigh the oem bed by chance? everytime I ever moved one I swore they were heavy as hell but in reality theyre just more awkward than anything. Im guessing not much more than a couple hundred pounds. Truck looks great

Not sure if you could get a mechanics mirror down in there to look around a little before tearing it down further? Whenever I start hearing funny rattling noises I hold my head still for a minute and they usually stop.

McMaster Carr is often our "go to" catalogAnd for those wondering how many pages is in a 3' thick book, 3888 :pant:The computer is MUCH easier to order from

^^^Thats a good thought about something possibly being in there but I dont think its possible it could be actually hanging a valve up or he would have noticed something a miss when he adjusted his valves.Ive never tried to crank my engine with out everything tied back together, are you positive something's not right? Engines do make mystery noises, my 650cc single cylinder thumper really rattles the valvetrain if you get right down by it and everythings within specs.

I would give anything for mid 50s temps

Are you talking the pump shaft to the ip? Ive wrenched on a few Deutz engines, I remember seeing some wild torque specs with them as well. One particular job I remember doing a head gasket on a 6 cylinder air cooled. Torque specs called for 125 ft lbs plus 120* on the bolt head! About gave myself a hernia!!!

I have my oem carter pump for just that purpose. I carry it with me anytime I venture far from home and can have it installed and running in about 15 minutes. No it will not put out the pressure of an aftermarket pump but it will allow me to nurse it on home (or wherever Im headed) and then deal with the issue. Beats spending several hundred dollars on a spare pump that will more than likely fall out of warranty sitting on the shelf collecting dust

That is what I was taught when I went through the rigging section of my crane op cert. Obviously it was for lifting lugs and such and not wheel studs but Ive seen it hold true so far time and time again, so you should be fine. As you were saying though, keep a breaker bar handy and check em out frequently until your comfortable. Are you sure theyre not from a leftover '12 instead of a '13?

Hmm, apparently I'm missing some wires then. There's only 2 wires coming from the pump a red and green wire. No plug or connection. So thats what Im wondering from those that have them, what each wire does. What else am I missing? As for hooking it to the truck, I planned on doing that if I can get it to pump fuel from a bucket. My truck isn't plumbed for this style of a pump so no sense in hacking my plumbing apart to find out the pump really is burned up. I assumed the red being positive and green being ground I should at least be able to get the pump to run. - - - Updated - - - I don't plan on burning anything up.

I have the chance to pick up an AirDog 100 with the twin filter set up for CHEAP. The short story on it is the guy was having problems with his truck running so he took it in to a shop and they told him his AirDog was junk. didn't have a fuel pressure gauge so had no idea what kind of fuel pressure he had and told the shop to change it out. Well didn't cure his problem so he wound up with what he says is a Perfectly Good spare pump. I told him I would be interested in it if I could bring it home and verify it does run. So I've got it in my vice at the moment ( I do not want to go through the hassle of installing it on the truck with out knowing it runs). The question I have is this. There are 2 wires coming out of the pump. I assume the red is positive and green is ground? Also on the regulator there are 2 posts, one marked "G" and one marked "M". Does the regulator need to be grounded as well? And the "M" ImI'm guessing is supposed to be an ignition source but I should be able to put 12. Volts to it and the pump should run. Am I on the right track here? The guy who owns it kknows nothing about it so II'm kinda winging it. Thanks for any help! - - - Updated - - - Well I tried to wire the pump up like I described/asked up above and no dice. So looks like Im going to be dropping the pump back off to the owner tomorrow. Real bummer because my Raptor gave me a real scare the other day and I ddon't have a lot of faith in it now. So now to decide what to do, wait until it craps out on me and keep my OEM carter with me at all times so I can swap it out real quick if need be, spend big bucks on another electric jobber that has a not so great reputation lately, or take the plunge on a mechanical pump.... I hate these kind of choices!

Hub and rotor are pressed together. You will have to remove the big axle nut in the center, remove the caliper, then remove the 4 hub bolts from the back side. They are a 12 point 9/16 socket and the big axle nut is metric but an inch and three quarter will work. If the hub has been in there for a long time it may be rusted in there and will require a puller that you should be able to rent from AutoZone or somewhere similar. Once everything is apart you will have to press the wheel studs out to separate the rotor and hub. One other thing you may want to look at while your in that far is axle u joints. Mine felt fine driving down the road but when I pulled the shafts out to inspect them (I was in there because I had a warped rotor as well) the joints were very stiff when I articulated them by hand. I put new joints in and it really freed up the rolling resistance of the front end when spinning the hub by hand. They're fairly inexpensive compared to the time it takes to get in there to do them. Also make sure your rear brakes are functioning and properly adjusted, if they're not than your front brakes will be taxed more to make up for the lack of rears.

Ive never bought a hardware kit for the Dodges but other vehicles Ive done they have been included in the kits. Ask the auto parts store for a spring kit and take a look at it, they should be in there.For the wheel cylinders, Napa part number 37337. They are for a 1 ton Chevy and is a direct bolt in. They were an improvement for me, but I think unhooking the load proportioning valve and cranking it up most of the way helped me as much if not more than the wheel cylinders

when it rains it poors! I was in the same boat last month. Got sidelined with a stuck caliper and consequently a warped rotor Since I had to remove my wheel bearing to seperate my rotor, I got into looking everything over. Balljoint boots were dry rotted, shocks were looking (and feeling) worn, so I dove in head first. New axle u joints, upper and lower ball joints, drilled and tapped the wheel bearings to make them greasable, new front shocks, turned the rotors down, replaced faulty caliper and dis assembled the other one to make sure I wouldnt have any problems with it... Im getting tired again just thinking about it! I also finally got around to throwing in my new injectors that have been sitting on the shelf for a few months and changed my front and rear diff fluid. Good news is, shes ready for summer! Good luck with the install!

Here is what I was referring to. Take a little time when your not busy and read through Chips entire website. Even if you plan on buying through another vendor, its still well worth your time. Hes got very good info on these fuel systems. If you order a pump somewhere else the same info he gives will still apply. http://m.bluechipdiesel.com/site/ording_information.html

Has anyone heard of any progress with UDC for 2nd gens?

Wow, I'm sorry to hear that Rick. I hope you get back on track soon, I'll keep you in my thoughts and prayers.

the extra programming required to read multiple vehicles would be an added cost, and at $600+, its already a pricey gadget to own. If you think about it, people are buying them for the tuning ability, the obdII reader is just a bonus.

UPDATE!!!......Please!!

Welcome, John. Where in Ohio is Kenton? Im in Andover just off Pymatuning Lake. (Very northeast corner, just south of Lake Erie)

They will only connect to the generation theyre designed for (2nd gen vp, 3rd gen cr, 6.7, etc) I once tried to plug mine in to my friends 04 cummins to see if it would pull codes, no dice. So anything non dodge and specifically non diesel will not work.

I think I posted these pics up somewhere but Ill throw them out there again. I found a guy that makes the harnessess as well, great quality. I have heard nothing but good about Sterns stuff other than the fact he can be hard to get a hold of, this could be a viable alternative for anybody looking. Took about a week to 10 days max to get the harness.

Im gonna go out on a limb here and say hes not neccessarily from the island..... NY is quite a large state. Been through lots of it, some real pretty country, the Adirondacks, the Catskills, the northern tip of Appalalachia. We go to Lake Chataqua in the summer once or twice and camp and fish along the gorge, beautiful country...Of course Sharjeel will probably prove me wrong with his next post and tell us hes from Long Island Anyhoo, welcome sharjeel!

Very neat, Mike. I never realized you were so close to Oregon.

Definitely need to get into it further but what's puzzling me is the fact that the brakes actually work with the manual controller. Which in my mind eliminates a bad connection or magnet which is why I was originally thinking it was a truck side problem, particularly controller. I was just thinking about the other day when I threw my spare brake controller in I may have made one mistake. I wired it up and just left it laying there without leveling the controller. What I mean by that is the adjustment on the left side of the controller that levels the pendulum according to how the controller is mounted on the knee panel. If ImI'm not mistaken that could alter the voltage signals drastically, so I guess I need to go back and check that also. Ill follow up with what I figure out

All lights on truck and trailer function as they should. I am 99% sure it is a trailer issue because one of the last things I tried last night was to pull the break away pin (dont know why I didn't think of it before) and the brakes still do not function. I test the break away periodically and tested the battery last night as well. Magnets and contact surfaces on the drum as well as all other brake components are clean and in good conditiion. The last load I pulled before tearing the hubs down to repack the bearings worked fine and the next time after when I hauled my dads tractor is when I noticed they were no longer working. So to answer your question yes they have always worked prior to this. I have owned the trailer long enough to wear out a set of tires and do a brake job. I repack the bearings every year also and I didnt do anything differently than I have ever done in the past and I definitely Didnt touch the brakes other than to adjust the shoes up a little. I have not had time to look at it today hopefully tomorrow or the next day I can get back out and look at it. Got a big road trip coming up quick and I will be working some crazy hours the next 2. Weeks so I have to figure something out soon.