diesel4life

Now that youve had your mirrors for a few weeks how do you like them? Anything you dont like about em? Do they look like the oem style or are they a little different?

You should be able to buy the receptacle plugs through Cummins or the dealership

Yeah jump starting a truck with a set of weld leads can get messy real quick if you think about it too long. Lol. Seen it done on a 4700 International one time. The truck started but melted the post on the starter

What company did you send your ecm/pcm to? That really stinks. Did you have trans issues before you started swapping pcm or did this come on after?

Being my balljoints were original (98) I wasnt even going to mess around with a ball joint press. I removed the caliper, rotor/wheel bearing assembly (mine are pressed together), then I pulled my axle shafts out since Im changing my universal joints. Then I removed the nuts on the upper and lower ball joints and took a grinder with a 6 inch cut off wheel and cut the ball joints off right where the boots are. At that point the remaining stud thats in the axle will pound out with minimal force. Then I took the spindle in to work and pressed the ball joints out with a 25 ton press, sand blasted and painted everything up (we do live in the rust belt ) then pressed the new joints back in. I had to use as much as 8 to 10 tons of force to get some of those old joints to move. I definitely wouldnt want to do this job any other way on a truck thats been in this climate - - - Updated - - - Managed to get everything back together this afternoon except the shocks. Going to drop them in tomorrow, throw the front diff cover back on and fill er up and take the ol girl for a test drive . Between greasing the wheel bearings and the new axle u joints the front end spins 2 or 3 times easier than it ever has, that oughta get me a tad better mileage

What was all involved with the 3rd gen brakes? Bigger dual piston calipers? Did you change rotors? After my last go around with my caliper hang up Im looking to get away from my single piston calipers. Theres a company called EGR thats got some upgraded units for the early 2nd gens, theyre big $$$ but cheaper than what my last go around cost me...

Ahhh, the new truck blues . Sorry about the misfortune. If it makes ya feel any better, I just socked a pile of $$$ into the front end of my truck, and its got a hell of a lot less than 350k miles on it!! My stuff was a little different it wasnt wore out it was plain ol dried out

A friend asked me to take a look at an 09 3500 single wheel for him last year. I told him I didnt know squat about the emissions equipped trucks but after talking to him agreed to go look at the mechanical integrity of it and let him know what I thought. So after work the nest day I stopped by the dealership. They must of heard me pull in because by the time I shut my truck off and got out of the truck a salesman was already there. I asked him if I could pop the hood and he said why dont we just take it for a ride. I said I would rather look it over first. So reluctantly he unlocked the truck and popped the hood. Immediately I noticed the compressor was GONE. The lines were just ziptied off to the side. I asked him what happened to it he said he didnt know thats the way it came in. I asked were they going to replace it he said no selling it as is to keep the resale price down while he was giving me some bs about the ac lines I also noticed a plate where I thought the egr maybe should be. Got me to wondering so I popped my head under the truck and low and behold shes straight piped. He said its got a brand new stainless exhaust I said now why would a 3 year old truck need a new exhaust?? i honestly think the guy didnt have a clue.

Thats crazy boost I didnt know you could get those numbers out of an Edge!

Got both sides removed and ball joints replaced. Did a little sandblasting and painting while everythings apart :whistle:Going to wait for my shocks to come in and replace them before I put everything back together. Im hoping they show up today, or tomorrow at the latest....I didnt even mess with a ball joint press I just cut them with a grinder and a deli wheel and took the assembly to a 25 ton press. Relatively easy and quick way of doing it, I dont think I would have wanted to mess with a press it took 8 to 10 tons to pop the lowers loose, and thats after a little bit of heat to loosen things up

Unbelievable. They oughta strip every one involved of their citizenship and deport them with little more than the clothes on their backs. Should be interesting to see how this plays out

There really is nothing to be gained or lost in horsepower with an air intake. Biggest advantage of a larger filter is you will see egt drop a little quicker. Where is your intake pulling from? Engine bay or is it cold air intake? Is it a dry element or oiled?

Are you positive your vaccum lines are hooked up coreectly? If you have a doubt, just switch them around real quick at the actuator on the axle it wont hurt anything and if it doesnt work than you can switch them right back around. This is assuming you know for a fact youve got vaccum TO the actuator....

Give us an update once youve got some seat time on some comparisons between your new rig and your old one. Economy, power, comfort, etc. Its a Nice lookin truck! The 3rd gen with a 12v conversion would be cool.

Yes you will have to reprime the system. Generally I will bump the starter a few times to engage the lift pump, youll hear it running. Cycle the key back off when the lift pump stops running, turn key back on and bump starter again. Generally 2 or 3 times should get everything primed up, then its time to crack injector lines up by the valve cover. You always want to crack the highest lines you can to get the air out of the system. I usually only do 2 or 3 of them, some like to do them all. Just loosen them up enough to wear you can turn the nut by hand freely, careful not to take them too loose. Then go to cranking the engine. Dont crank the starter much longer than 20 to 30 seconds at a time before giving it a minute or so to cool. You may have to do this a few times, eventually it will start but run very rough. Now you should be ready to tighten the injector lines back up, and be good to go.

Cetane is essential for proper detonation, too low and you will have hard starts and smoking when the engine is under load. So they add cetane to prevent this along with sludging of fuel. But like Mike stated too much is not necessarily a good thing either. Most of the time time cetane additives arent necessary unless fuel has been sitting for a while or perhaps in extreme cold weather

The single piston calipers are definitely not sufficient. Looking at Mikes pics above, they must have went to the dual pistons when they did the axle change in 00. Ive heard a little bit about people doing the 3rd gen brake upgrade, I think Im going to look into it further when I get my front end back together and a couple other projects tied up. Of course, if the upgrade includes going to a larger caliper, Im pretty well screwed because I cant upgrade to the newer style rotors :banghead:

Lookin good. Did you get one for the back as well? Can I ask how much they cost? Definitely an upgrade from the original cloth!

Found another source for the sport harness conversion. This is a quality harness, Im quite impressed with the time he puts into these. I just wish I had time to install it right now but Ive got too many other projects on the burner right now.

NPT= national pipe thread. Ive got an older style canister with ports coming out the top and they are npt (pipe thread). Im sure one of the guys will chime in with the easiest way to run a guage off the newer style canister like youve got

Honestly for the $$$ your going to spend on that you would be better off just installing a full length exhaust with a resonator as W&F mentioned, and if thats not enough you can add a muffler later on. Trust me, the ol girl will still howl with a straight through type resonator if you step on the skinny pedal

I was talking to a driveline specialist about this subject yesterday. He told me the reason nobody does these swaps is because the 00-02 dana 60 axle is wider than the 98-99. He agreed that the 98-99 are more of a PITA to work on because of the pressed rotors, but said the outer spindle is a better design because the upper and lower ball joints are weight bearing and the 00-02 are not. He said he literallty sees twice the number of 00-02 trucks come in for ball joints than 98-99. This is just one mans opinion, but he has been in the driveline buisiness for 25 years and has owned his own shop for 10 years, so I imagine hes got a pretty good grasp on what works and doesnt. As for your original question rdsutton, he also touched base on the Ford outers swap and said that it the easiest and cheapest route if you want slip on rotors

You will need a needle valve along with a fitting to adapt from the fuel line to the 1/8" hose. Ive got the older style fuel canister and came right out of it with the needle valve then went to a 1/8" npt by 1/8" tube compression fitting. I think the newer fuel canisters like yours are different, so you will either have to install a tee in the fuel line between the canister and injection pump or I think theres even a banjo bolt "tee" to come out of the canister.

I bought a brand new exhaust off a guy locally a while back at about half price, he bought it and wrecked the truck before he had the chance to install it. Its a full exhaust, with no muffler/resonator. Needless to say, the tone in the cab was unbearable. To help quiet it down, I clamped a 30" piece of unistrut to my exhaust where the muffler should have been to limit the "resonation". It was supposed to be temporary until I could get a resonator, but it quieted the truck down so much I never did anything with it. Of course it doesnt do much for being outside the truck...

- - - Updated - - - After my episode with my caliper last week, I got to really giving everything a good look on the front end of my truck. Nearly all the seals in my ball joints are detoriated, and Ive got a slight amount of play in the lowers. So rather than chance being down in the summer over something I decided to relieve the ol girl of all her original components. New upper and lower ball joints came in today along with new axle u joints. Ordered a set of Bilstein shocks for the front. Will take the other caliper off and re grease the slides, and am tapping the wheel bearings for a grease zerk while Ive got them apart. I did my drivers side already, will do pass side when I tear it down, probably at the begining of the week. I figure I cant have a whole lot to lose in doing this as they are original hubs (13+ yrs) of no grease and then when my caliper locked up and cooked everything that probably took care of anything that was left inside. So I got a magnetized drill bit, greased it up, put the hub in the vice in my drill press and went to town (slowly). We shall see how it goes. This is all on top of the sport lights I picked up out of the junk yard for 40 bucks a few months ago and my new lighting harness that just came in last week along with my new injectors Ive yet to install. Ive got a day off next week so Im hoping to get the front end back together to where I can drive it and the injectors and lights will probably have to wait for another couple of weeks until things slow down a bit.