diesel4life

Pop the tire off, no problem. Rotor on the other hand, the whole bearings coming out first

Where are you guys getting your copper washers for your injectors? Ive been on 3 different websites and cant find them. They carry the o rings I need, but no washers?

Sounds like you got real lucky glad to hear your up and moving

I think depending on how you build it aluminum could be pretty strong. Especially if you build the bumper with 6" or 8" channel $$$$ or if your just looking to do alum plate you could possibly build the frame mounts and a skeleton with carbon steel and plate it with aluminum (or stainless ). I do alot of work with 304 and 316 SS pipe and actually priced some Sch 40 2" and some 6" SS channel a while back maybe some day if I wind up with pockets of money with nothing to spend but lets just say its not going to happen anytime soon

Yes but remember Im only 20 miles or so from Canada and the vehicles here get pretty bad too. Its got to be pretty dam cold I think below zero, Ill have to poke around later and see what I can find.

What part of Wyoming you goin through? Ive got family scattered around that way, sure do miss being out there.Reading Mikes post reminded me of an article I read somewhere talking about the rusting process and it was saying one it gets down below a certain temperature the oxidation process that causes rust all but stops.wish I could remember where I read that and the temperature they claimed. I know around here in the rust belt it does get down around zero quite a bit but we get some real wild temp swings depending on where the front comes from. Canada is only 20 miles or so from the lakeshore so thats where the majority of our cold weather comes from. But then we get a front coming up from south or southwest and temps get back into the 20s and 30s real quick. Which is why so many vehicles look like swiss cheese around here :banghead:

When your listening for the lift pump, are you bumping the starter first as mentioned? Reason Im asking is if your smelling fuel you most likely have a leak somewhere. Once you get enough air in the lines, you almost have to crack an injector(s) somewhere to get the air bled out enough to fire the truck up. Even if the lift pump is bad youll definitely want to track that smell down to avoid any other future issues

Ok so youve recently been into your fuel system, I would look there that definitely seems like the culprit. Look for any minor leaks or wet spots. If your new pump has those quick connect push lock fittings, make sure they are good and tight. The slightest leak will allow air in the fuel line and the fuel will siphon back to the tank. Then when you go to start, youve got air in your lines and you have to push the air out before the truck will start. As an example, when I installed a new fuel pressure gauge last year, I started having similar issues with hard starts after the truck started. I pulled the fuel gauge back out of the pillar and the fitting on the back of the gauge was just barely damp. Almost not even enough to get your fingers wet. But I cinched the fitting down a touch more, problem solved. My point is It doesnt take much at all to give you a problem.

Did it say "done" right after? That probably means you have no codes. The ecu is your ecm and pcu is your pcm. If there were codes, a number would follow such as 0237 or 1693 for example. So you probably dont have a check engine light then, right?Next thing you need to do is get a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to read fuel pressure coming from the lift pump, I see youve got an Air Dog ordered so your on the right track. How about your grid heaters? Does the wait to start light stay on longer as the temp gets colder? If the grid heater isnt working properly that could also cause hard starts when cold.

Do you have a check engine light on? Its been a while since Ive used it, but there is a key trick you can use to extract the codes. With the truck off,Turn the key to the on position and back off 3 times, (I think) and the last time you turn it to the on position your odometer should relay any codes you may have stored in the ecm. Someone correct me if Im wrong, my 98.5 does not have this option but I think thats how it works.

Do you have any engine codes? If so you need to post them up so we can help you a little better. White smoke is usually unburnt fuel, could also be condensation if your in a humid area on a cold day

Ok stupid question for you Volkswagon: you say it kicks out at 30mph, so below 30 you cant use it at all? Im assuming thats because you only have lockup in 3rd and 4th right? How about if you could achieve lockup in 1st and 2nd would the brake stay engaged still? If not, that might make me really reconsider, I really like the thought of being able to use one at low speeds such as on steep grades to maintain lower speed.

Thanks for the insight. I was wondering why it wouldnt work with an auto, I did a search on them last night and 2 sites I found them on said there was only 2 or 3 years of the 3rd gens the e brakes would work?So if all I need is a plate for my HX, (already have a tc lockup), I would still be interested

Did you ever pick up that tst?

Thanks dobienut. It doesnt appear they make them for the autos, so looks like Im out :banghead:

Make it 3 please and thank you! :pray:Was just on your website, I dont even see any jacobs listed? Am I missing them?

Hey Mindless, dont you do alot of hauling/towing? My opinion of the 6.7s they do better when towing heavier loads than our old 2nd gens power and economy wise. Especially if its deleted and got new injectors, should be a safe buy IMO.

Thanks for the link thats by far the best price Ive seen on mirrors yet. The only concern Id have is how much vibration they might have if they dont have the bracket to stiffen them up. Ill have to give them a call and talk to them tomorrow.Edit: Rereading your post have you ordered these specific mirrors? Do they come with a stiffener plate to stop vibration?

Ive looked at it as well but have yet to pull the trigger. It looks like a simple and reliable kit and would be nice to have 2 lo for backing up trailers and/or just creeping around

Welcome to the site:thumbup2:

Are you thinking your new pcm is junk? I "think" it has to be model specific (for the year and auto vs manual)Its really strange your getting codes that dont pertain to a diesel engine.....

That thing is incredible, but its surprising that it would be cost effective to build em that big rather than building smaller engines and running them in series. I cant imagine the labor involved in just maintenance alone :ahhh:The cooling lines that wrap around the back side of the engine look like 12 inch pipe!

Yes alt is controlled by pcm but all those other codes are ecm related. Did you test the crank sensor? If its bad that will prevent alt from charging too

Those are functions controlled by the ecm not the pcm. Pcm is on pass side firewall ecm is on engine blockHow about batteries?

Cmon Mike you cant put a picture like that up without any info