diesel4life

Do you have 3.55 gears? That is what Ive got with an auto and I personally think the combo is almost too high when your pulling heavy trailers. The trans wants to drop into OD at about 52 mph and the rpms drop to 1600 which is too low for towing. If your on a perfectly flat road and just have to maintain speed its OK, but any kind of grade or quick acceleration the egts will start going through the roof. My 98 is an HX turbo so I can imagine your problem is compounded even more. Ive learned to accelerate using the OD button which keeps the trans in 3rd and I will generally keep the converter locked. Depending on load/grade I will run in 3rd all the way to 2200 rpm sustained its actually easier on the engine, egts will be lower and according to my scangauage Im actually burning less fuel than if Im lugging it in OD.

^^X2. And the 1693 simply means there is a companion code detected so if the overboost was the only other code then you shouldnt have any problems with your vp especially if theres no driveability issues. If you clear the codes does the overboost code come back?

You didnt mention any driveability issues (if any) your experiencing? Once you get your gauge installed, let us know what kind of fuel pressure your seeing. And welcome to the forum

I would love to have one of these sitting in my garage especially with Lake Erie in my back yard

"At steady highway speeds it cuts on and off" is what you stated earlier. That is exactly what mine would do when it went bad. Ive never heard of any available parts that can be purchased for the vp.

You may want to try to find a better scan tool to do a diagnosis you probably have a code/codes stored even though the scantron or whatever the auto parts store used didnt pick anything up. Plus a good scanner will be able to pull the codes from your abs. It could be the sensor on your rear diff tripping the abs light, but you didnt mention any problems with the speedo? I would definitely get your lift pump issue resolved before you run the truck anymore and cause further damage to the vp. As far as hard starting, start at the vp and work your way back to the tank checking for leaks or any signs of dampness. Make sure all fuel lines, fittings, and guages (if you have one) are tight. If anything looks even slightly damp, that could be enough to give you a problem. If you get through that and are still having problems, it may or may not be related to the dead pedal issue you mentioned. I dont think a fuel leak would be related to dead pedal, unless it was a real bad leak. Dead pedal could be from a bad apps or possibly a vp (gasp). Like I said, it may be easier and cheaper in the long run to find a better scan tool, they can be your best friend sometimes. I dont think I would even worry about your fuel heater if your in Alabama. If your worried about the WIF sensor you should be able to buy a plug end through Cummins to match the newer style sensor and splice it into your harness. Or just make your own with some spade terminals...

Found a harness through Genos for around 150 bucks. Everything Ive ever ordered through them has been of very good quality, so I think I may order one in the next few weeks. Just shelled out over 900 bucks in parts on the wifes trailblazer, so it wont be this week :banghead: http://www.genosgarage.com/Brite-Box/products/9/

I got one thatll make you scratch yer head....Been having the exact same problem on my little beater truck I drive to work. 93 Toyota pick up. Thing would sit there and idle ALL DAY LONG smooth as silk. Put it in gear and try to accelerate, it would fall on its face unless I really stood on it then it would come to life and bounce off the rev limiter all day long. Once I got it up above 3000 rpm, it was as if nothing was even wrong with it. Below that and it wouldnt even get out of its own way. Only one code stored and that was for O2 sensor. So I did the usual routine. Pulled plugs, looked good so regapped and put back in. Put new set of wires, cap and rotor on, no change. Even put a new coil on, ran the exact same way. The whole time Im thinkin about this code that has been stored for ages, and I figure what do I have to lose? So I disconect the plug at the O2 sensor. Thing runs like a scared chicken. I have no clue why that would have any bearing on the way it would run, but it does. Like I said, this wasnt a new code at all, its been on for a loooong time but I just havent cared enough to replace the sensor. So, whats the moral of this story? I dont have any idea other than Im probably going to scramble your brains even farther. Just when you think you have a vehicle figured out, itll throw a curveball at ya. Good luck!Have you tested your throttle position sensor? Rereading your post reminded me of a problrm I had on a car before and thats what it was. If youve got a manual you should be able to confirm resistance of the sensor...

No real way to test your vp if its not showing any codes has good lp pressure and runs good thats about as good as you can do. No way I know to tell what injectors are without pulling them. As far as different boost numbers Im not 100 percent sure but I think the edge does boost fooling and if it is pulling info from the OBDport that may be why your seeing slightly lower numbers. Is your boost gauge tapped into your exhaust manifold? I would think that would be the more accurate reading Sounds like all in all you got a nice truck, how about some pictures!?!

Have you tried returning the truck back to stock to see if it still does it? I wouldnt think the Smarty would cause your lift pump to run. Sounds like a question for John hes the CR smarty guru!

You can put an e brake on your 2nd gen no problem, its actually on my wishlist of things to get (someday). I think your on the right track, getting your 1/2 ton back on the road and using that as a dd. It will be cheaper fuel, will warm up quicker, and the short trips wont be nearly as hard on the gasser as it is on a diesel

Good question?

As far as steering boxes go Ive never had to replace one but my understanding is there are aftermarket boxes out there that are an upgrade from oem. Maybe others that have had to replace them and know more about them will chime in.

Being youve got a 98.5 you should have the HX. I think the autos changed turbos in 2000, but not 100 percent sure. With my smarty Ive seen boost pressures over 30 a few times. As long as your engine is healthy, you should have no issues with that.

The short answer is yessss And your steering/suspension components will thank you for it as well.

Ive seen a few of Codys videos over the last couple of months, pretty fascinating work hes doing. Just another reason I think this whole gun control law bs is going to backfire in a big way if its gone about wrong. I agree with strict background checks and registration. But if they proceed with the bans theres only going to be more people like Cody figuring out how to get around them.

Bad glow plug(s) possibly? Not a powerstroke guy I dont know much about them, but I would look there first. Does it make a difference if its plugged in? Also a small fuel leak could cause some rough running at first until the air gets worked out of the system.

Unfortunately it sounds like yours is computer related. "Dead Pedal" is very common with the vp, I had the same thing on my former 2000. Nothing can be done except change it out.

Just a little heads up you have probably noticed the big price difference in some of the pumps out there. Biggest difference is some are sold with new computers and some are sold with used computers. If you can afford it, it is best to go with a new computer. They are one of the biggest failures of the vp and by buying a pump with a used computer theres no telling how long it will last.

Did you figure out the cause of the 0230 code?

Hey Adam, welcome to the site. Im in Ashtabula County, very northeastern corner on Pymatuning Lake. Good luck with the vp replacement, check out Blue Chip if your still looking.

If they didnt put out any information about the scenario, how did the other units make it there quicker?Sounds alot like the crap we get put through every quarter at work. I am a welder/fitter in a very large chemical plant. Lots and lots of confined spaces on site, pits, tunnels, vessels, reactors, silos, the list goes on and on. Alot of times we have to go inside to perform repairs. Many years ago the higher ups decided if there ever was a true emergency by the time the fire dept or ambulance showed up lots of precious time could be wasted so they formed a voluntary in house C.S.R. team (confined space rescue). Had to learn to self repel as well as ascend using only ropes and prussiks. No mechanical devices, period. Learned how to make 3 to 1 and 4 to 1 pulley systems for retrieving personnel. And to make it all the more interesting we always train in level b acid suits and scba bottles with full face respirators to simulate an emergency chemical response. The initial training we got was from certified instructors and was very good. But then they got cheap and sent one of the employees out to get certified and now he does all the refresher classes every quarter and he really has no buisiness being an instructor.

O-U-C-H!!! My needle is barely moving at the 90 mile marker! (Country driving) Something cant be right!?

Ive been looking around a little for bulbs. Did you order the ones your going to be using off the internet or did you find them locally? My friend has those night hawks as well and says their good bulbs, I think I might try them.

I dont know anything about the 6.7s but I would think you would be better off keeping the oem exhaust in your garage in case you have to put it back on someday. Say if Wyoming one day goes to e checks or the day comes you decide to sell it, you may want or have to put it back to stock. Punching it out now could cost you big $$$ down the road.,