diesel4life

You can send your unit back to Smarty and they can reflash them. My friend had to do this when his ecm took a dump and could not return back to stock so it vin locked his smarty and couldnt use it with his new ecm. Or maybe shoot them an email and see what they have to say about it, maybe simple as downloading the updates from their website to clear it up.

So sorry to hear that Bill. You are all in our thoughts today.

Are you talking about the mud terrain T/A's? I saw those the other day when I was looking around but Im looking to stay with an all season tire my Duratracs still have alot of tread if I need an aggressive tire I can switch back to those but would like to stick with an all season for my 17s

We will all say a prayer for you and your mother tonight, Bill. May peace find you both in this difficult time.

I personally think a nice chrome tip out the back (where they belong) looks better than any stack. I think it kills the look of a truck, not to mention there is no real purpose or function of them. Then you gotta go cuttin holes in the bed which I could never bring myself to do either. Not tryin to be a hater, I just dont really get why so many people are into them.So going by your sons logic, I must be an ancient dinosaur . P.S. tell him Im 33 so the age logic they are using on you just got blown outta the water!

2nd Gen lug nuts look identical to the 4th Gen but the threads are different. They have the exact same taper and are the same length luckily or the center caps would not fit. After running my 285s so long going back to a factory size tire sure does make the truck look different. I will say the ride is much improved though, you dont feel the road nearly as much as with my Duratracs. My initial plan was to sell the tires and buy something taller but I cant go much taller without going wider. I would like to be able to run a radial in around a 33" or 34" tire but would like to maintain the factory tire width of around 10 inches but I havent been able to find anything like that. So I may just run these and save my Duratracs for the spring when Im out in the sloppy fields.

Ok thanks. Ill have to spin one of my lug nuts off and compare the taper to the 4th gen lugnuts they look a little different from what I remember mine to be. Hopefully I dont have to go buy new lug nuts.

As mentioned it may be risky using the old valve body I dont really know for sure.... when I swapped the built trans out of my 00 into my 98.5 the entire valve body had to be swapped. Luckily the trans was still new so my tranny guy swapped me the correct valvebody and he just kept the one out of my 00. I made the mistake and didnt ask him before I swapped and got the trans into my 98.5 and it was doing the exact same thing yours is... temp light was on which kept it out of OD and would start off in 2nd gear. Im almost certain your issue is the valve body. But mine wasnt actually getting hot the light would come on instantly even before it had the chance to warm up.

Well luckily I grabbed the lug nuts as well, but I thought for sure the threads were different between the dana axles and AAM......

Picked these up locally last night for $400. Came off a 2012 with under 10k miles on them. Been looking for a while and have not had any luck locally until these babies showed up on Craigslist on Monday. So after working 13 and a half hours yesterday I jumped in the truck and drove an hour and a half each way. He had someone coming to look at them this morning and I didnt want to chance missing out on them. So my question is can I use my lug nuts on the new wheels? What are you guys with 4th gen wheels using?

Not sure how to tell what year. Anyway to find out from the previous owner?As far as overheating I would check the fluid temp verify its not overheating the light may be coming on due to incorrect valvebody also. If the light comes on almost instantly and you can grab ahold of the trans lines and theyre still cool to the touch you know you know you dont have an overheating issue

Depending on the year of truck the trans came from you may need to change the valve body out Im not 100 percent sure on the years but I think the 00-02 are different than the 99 and earlier the line pressures are different which will prevent proper shifting and OD with converter lockWhen the high temp light comes on the trans will kick itself out of OD in attempt to circulate more fluid to cool the trans down. As long as your not actually overheating, I would bet money thats due to an incorrect valvebody also

Ive not had any days of -20 since I put my DDRP on but I have noticed at subzero temps fuel pressure is a little slow coming up, I think its somewhat normal as long as it comes up to pressure within a few seconds. The Raptor is factory set at 14 psi I actually bumped mine up closer to 17-18 and even under heavy engine load doesnt drop below 14-15 psi. You definitely should get a fuel gauge so you know what your running, Im guessing your probably dropping down to around 10 or 11 psi under heavy engine load.

Do you think your engine is lacking power as well as trans shifting issue? If youve got any codes from a scanner post them up here and we should be able to give some more insight. As far as the gauges go, one place I recommend is Genos.com. theyve got some pretty good prices on gauge packages and will throw in a pod to install the gauges for half price (last time I checked anyway). I bought the Isspro Ev series theyre a nice set of gauges I reall like them.On the questions on the Airdog II or the Raptor, not sure if your comparing the 2 and wondering which one to get? You will only need one or the other the Raptor FRRP is a very simple straight forward replacement it goes in place of the oem block mounted lift pump. The AirDog II is a step up in quality pumps more volume and has extra filtration which will prolong your injectors. For a relatively stock truck you could also consider the Air Dog 100 with the dual filter setup that mounts on the frame rail back near the fuel tank. Fass also sells comparable units, whichever you choose the units with the dual filter setup would be the best choice. Vulcan Performance sells either pump you mentioned along with any fuel lines or fittings you may need.On the 4wheel drive, did you pull the vacuum lines at the actuator at the front axle to verify vaccuum? If youve got vacuum there, I would un bolt the housing from the axle and with the truck running and vacuum lines still connected, see if the fork will slide back and forth when engaging/disengaging 4wheel drive. If the fork doesnt move, you should be able to get an actuator from your local autoparts for around 80 bucks. Genos carries them as well.Vehicles can certainly be overwhelming especially when dealing with multiple issues. Just take them one at a time, and dont be shy about asking questions. Good luck!

Sorry for the delays Rogan, I ended up getting stuck on night shift of a big shutdown the last 3 nights and havent tried calling Dean back. I finished my last night shift just a little bit ago, Ill get on the ball later on after I get some sleep and try to get you two hooked up by the weekend

In this crazy world you almost have to.... Cut his head off.....yeah that would take a sick individual to do...reminds me of 3 or 4 years ago when some guys from the big city killed another guy over a drug deal. They drove him out to the country in our neck of the woods and cut his extremities off with a sawzall and scattered his body over a 10 mile stretch of back roads. Only problem was a farmer was up at 330 in the morning and saw a car driving by and tossed a garbage bag out the window just after they passed his house. He stopped by on his atv a few hours later to pick it up out of the ditch, what an unpleasant surprise that must have been. The authorities started driving around checking the ditches and eventually found the rest of him...

Inner city mentality at its finest....where "thuggin" is the way of life. We flew into Jacksonville in 2008 for a Cruise, got there the night before and decided to rent a car to tour the town rather than just sit in the hotel room all night. Needless to say we got lost, and wound up on the wrong side of the tracks. The only white folks were the two idiots driving around in a rental car. I mean they were everywhere, every street corner, every porch, and every single one of em was yellin at us as we drove by. I literally drove through a couple of stop signs and a red light because they would see us coming (knowing we werent from there) and would start to walk out in front of the car to get us to stop. Its crazy how you can get just a few streets over in the wrong direction and be in a whole different world . That was the first night my wife actually wished I had ol betsy in the safe under the seat. Ever since then shes much more understanding when I want to bring her with us on trips :gun:You just never know

Also if hes got a boost gauge to check all the plumming for it. I was with my buddy one day when his line blew at the comp fitting under high boost conditions and it was a very high pitch noise coming out of such small dia. tubing

Is the EJA good for +100 horsepower? Just going by your sig, RV 275 should put you close to 250-260 hp leaving the EJA to bridge the gap

Is that your neighborhood? Thats too bad 19 yrs old is wayyy too young. And probably all over something trivial too.

I know a guy who did a home version of the line x to his toyota trail rig. He was a body man by trade did the job himself and it did and still does look pretty good. It is a trail rig though, he doesnt wash it and have no idea how hard it would be to keep clean if thats something your concerned about. My main concern if your talking about taking it to a true line x dealer would be cost. I would think it would get quite expensive. Just the bed and over the rails on my buddies truck was around 500 bucks IIRC. You can probably figure triple (or more) the square footage for doing the whole truck, plus all the masking, paint prepping, and trim removal/assembly, Im guessing you could have it painted for less than what its going to cost and have a great looking rig. Unless thats the look your set on, than go for it

Been playing phone tag with Dean. He called last night but I was already in bed had to be up at 4am for work and wasnt feeling good. I will try calling him a little later this morning.

The Raptors are not vane pumps like the FASS so they are more tolerant to passing debris. I havent seen anywhere on their websites or in my installation manual where they recommend installing a prefilter? my friend who bought a FASS a few months after I bought my Raptor said they did recommend a prefilter, he questioned me if the Raptors did as well so I went on a search and was never able to find anything. Not saying it wouldnt be a good idea, more is definitely better. If theres any info you guys have seen that says otherwise Id appreciate a link? Or something because that means Ive been doin er wrong this whole time

If Rogan is game, I would rather send money his way than to someone I dont know.

Can you fill in the ignorant guy and explain why you cant use an aftermarket turbo with an exhaust brake?