diesel4life

What in the world does that go in? And I was impressed with the QSK 120 that Cummins recently developed....

Interesting....did it do any damage when it came out? Im guessing it had to of for you to know it?

You might try jumping on some of the tdi forums out there and asking those guys. Im pretty sure the vw's of that era run bosch pumps as well with the computer on the pump so theres some similarities to our trucks with the fuel systems.

Im curious if youve ever owned any other generation of a cummins? If so how would you compare it to your current truck (performance, economy, reliability). I will be looking at a crew cab in the next year or so, and so far Im leaning towards the early commonrails.

Was the freeze plug leaking before? Ether isnt good on any diesel due to the dryness but it can be used in a pinch. The critical step in using it on our trucks is to disconnect the grid heaters and then a shot or 2 occasionally really wont hurt anything. Are you close to home or on the road?

No offense taken Im glad you corrected me. Like I said I was stuck on bolt tap sizes for some reason. I rebuild a lot of pumps at work and run alot of threaded pipe when you do enough of something you start remembering drill sizes and thread pitches/tpi but in my haze this morning I wasnt thinking. So yes by all means If Im spewing some unsensible garble I definitely need corrected

I dont think I could bring myself to sell my old 2nd gen. Theyre getting fewer and farther between and I love the simplicity and durability of it. I really have no interest in going to a newer truck especially an emissions truck but the earlier commonrails seem to be pretty reliable and trouble free. And Im going to need a crewcab so unfortunately my hand is being forced. So if and when the day comes Ill most likely keep my 98 for everyday uses and the crewcab for family outings when we need a truck. My 98 just turned 93k and the body is rock solid, so theres not doubt I will get many more years out of it. Shes my baby!

Hey Russ, whats the gvw of your toy hauler? Im not going to get into detail and hijack Hex's thread but weve been browsing for our first family camper. I like the idea of a toy hauler as we are into the atv scene as a family but with my current truck am going to be limited on what I can haul. But Im also going to be stepping up to a crew cab (family is growing) in the next year or so so Im not limiting my options to what my truck is capable of. Thanks,JR

Thats what I get for going off memory after working a 14 hour night shift I dont know why but I was thinking bolt taps not npt. Thanks for straightening me out

1/8 npt requires a 3/32 bit IIRC. 5/16 bit will get you up around a 3/8 NPT

Im not worth much when it comes to rv`s but Ive done a fair amount of hauling over the years so Ill throw my marbles out there.... When looking at a trailer of any sorts you have to consider the gvw of it and the pin weight. First off you just never know what your going to be hauling in it and second if you were to get pulled over and the gvw is higher than your truck is rated theyre going to throw the book at you. Transmissions along with axles and gear ratios are factors in tow ratings. If youve got 4.10s with a manual you will be capable of hauling more than the 3.55s and an auto trans for example. But just because youve got an upgraded trans doesnt legally increase your gcwr. DOT cops wont like that answer one bit! :nono:Now, in my opinion, your going to be asking too much out of your truck. 3200 pound pin weight is going to be leaning on you pretty heavy and running a toy hauler empty from what Ive seen is worse. Theyre designed to be balanced out with toys in the back so when theres nothing back there it puts more pin weight on the truck. Then youve also got to consider the high profile going down the freeway on a windy day the tails going to be wagging the dog pretty good being a single wheel truck. Shell definitely handle what your looking at, youve got enough power to get down the road and a good set of trailer brakes will get you slowed down. But for safety reasons as well as legal I think you will be better off considering a smaller unit or stepping up to a dually. These are just my opinions gained from my experiences, dont take em to the bank cuz they may not cash it

An exhaust brake is on the wishlist...along with a new set of injectors and a set of mirrors....I dislike these small mirrors especially with a trailer in tow but at the same time I cant bring myself to spend 400+ on a new set. Ive been holding out and scouring classifieds and salvage yards with no luck

I dont know if I will ever own a new vehicle, so looking at potential maintenance issues is a big concern when Im considering a vehicle. As technologically advanced as that engine seems, probably breaks the deal for me. The average do it your selfer is going to be stranded and clueless when that thing starts acting up. And chain driven camshafts on a diesel engine? Hmmm, thats going to be an interesting repair.

Like stated a 3/4 ton will pull it fine but safely handling it will be another story. Also when I said Ive hauled that much weight it was on a flat bed trailer not a 40' kite like your looking at. That big ol surface area will have your rear eating your shorts on the freeway at higher speeds, on windy days and everytime a tractor trailer passes by you. A dually would be a much safer and more stable option, not to mention legal. Depending on how your truck is setup and what all youve got loaded in it the max legal pinweight can be as low as around 1500 pounds or maybe even less in some instances with a 2500. You would have to load your truck up just like you would when hauling your rv and go have the axles weighed individually to see what you would be legal to tow.On the description sheet it states dry weight at 8600 lbs, but your saying fully loaded it will weigh around 13k with no atv's in the back?

Hey Ryan, What do you mean by thinner mounting surface? The caps snap on to the lugnuts, and the 2nd gen lugnuts are identical to the 4th gen lugnuts other than the threads. I got the 4th gen chromes (steel) and they fit perfect with no modifications

You may get lucky with the steering wheel trick pressing the wheel bearing out but be careful too much exertion and you can damage your booster. You should be able to rent a puller from Autozone or Advanced Auto or somewhere like that. Threads onto the wheel studs and pushes off the axle shaft. Once its off, you will have to press the wheel studs out, clean up the hub assembly while the rotor is off, and put the new rotor in place and press the wheel studs back in. Now would be a great time to grease your wheel bearings but the only way I know how to do that is through the abs sensor. So not sure how you could go about that....Use liberal amounts of Anti sieze when reassembling, youll thank yourself down the road if you ever have to take it back apart. Im running EBC drilled and slotted rotors and EBC brake pads and they are light years ahead of the oem stuff I replaced them with. The thing about slotted rotors is you have to use a quality brake pad that is recommended for use with a slotted rotor. Drilled and slotted rotors are designed to dissapate heat but they are also designed to build heat quicker than a solid rotor. The slots scrub the brake pads which put heat in the pads. Heat is what makes brake pads bite, which improves stopping power. but if youve got a pad thats not designed for the higher temps the pads will wear quickly and you will see brake dust all over your wheels. So if your going to buy a drilled and slotted rotor, make sure you buy the pads they recommend.As far as switching to the slip on rotors, the only way you will be able to do that is by swapping the axle out for a 00 - 02. The spindles are different, and you cant swap spindles out because the axle shafts arent the same length. Ive heard of people swapping out spindles from Ford axles of similar years because theyve got the lockout hubs and slip on rotors (I think). You would have to do some research to verify that. Probably not worth all the time and $$$ to do a swap, unless you plan on keeping the truck for a long time and then going to something with lock out hubs would be the sensible way IMO. Otherwise just sleeze the heck out of everything when you put it back together and it should come apart much easier next time.

Ive had that kind of weight hooked to my 2500 a few times, I can tell you its more than the truck is built for. Toy haulers are heavy on the pin by design to compensate for whatever cargo you may be hauling in the rear, so if/when your hauling it empty it will be taxing the truck even more.

I could very well be wrong but it seems to me like its nowhere near enough engine for a full size truck. If you look at Ram and Ford they both increased engine displacement so they could detune the engines to conform with the emissions standards. At less than half the engine displacement, it seems as though that little engine is going to be taxed pretty hard, especially with an 8k pound trailer behind it. It will be interesting to see some real world mpg's when they come out. I think it is a step in the right direction however, even if they have to go through some growing pains in the first few years.

If youve got fuel to the injection pump but not past it it sounds like either your vp or ecm. If they verified the ecm is fine, it kinda narrows it down. I dont know how to check it other than maybe call around to some of the certified bosh shops that rebuild the vp's and see if they will bench test yours

They make 3 or 4 foot sections of wire rope and synthetic rope specifically for plowing (if thats what your referring to when you say you only have 3 feet deployed for plowing) the advantage is quicker spooling which operates the plow faster. The obvious disadvantage is you cant use it for anything else. Sounds like your friend had a defective rope, nothing should ever break on the first try (unless he had it wrapped around something he shouldnt have). My winch is made by viper but I bought my spool of rope through Warn, it was about 10 dollars more than the steel cable replacement. My steel cable lasted about 5 years, it started out 50 feet long and I broke it so many times it was only 10 or 15 feet long when I replaced it. I always pay attention to ensure the cable gets spooled in properly and I use an old sling to wrap around objects rather than the cable. With all that being said, Im glad I made the switch. Its got the same rating as the cable and is much easier on the hands when running it in and out:wink:

Hey Russ, if you ever need to replace your winch cable, check out the synthetic rope. The stuff is amazing. I broke my cable at least a half dozen times over the years, it eventually got so short it was all but useless. Replaced with the synthetic rope and I love it. No more getting jabbed from broken steel strands, and its just plain old easier to work with. You have to be careful when wrapping it around objects (I always carry a thin strip of an old sweatshirt in my compartment for padding) Ive had it about a year now and no complaints very durable stuff.

What was the fix for your transmission?

The way I always understood the Ottomind is its more of a safe guard for your truck than performance enhancer. It does things like provide additional torque management at critical shift points when the engine is under heavy loads and limits fueling at predetermined egt levels. So they probably would not be very compatable with performance tuners.

Have you cracked your injectors to see if your getting fuel to them? Assuming you sent your ecm into a reputable shop, fuel would be my next move Also, how are you checking for codes? I would try to locate a quality scanner, even if it costs you a few bucks to have somebody hook one up to your rig. If your ecm is bad, there should be a "no communication" message. If it can link, you will probably get more info than by doing the key trick