diesel4life

Thata strange they would turn you away, WF. I mean it is scrap and your taking it to a scrap yard.....The only thing they require around here is if the car has an engine you have to bring the title and proof of ID (car has to be. In your name). If no engine, they could care less. Ive literally scrapped 60 to 80 cars over the years. I remember when gas soared sky high (for the first time) 4 or 5 yrs ago, an suv or a light duty pickup would bring around 500 bucks. A set of aluminum rims would bring over 100 bucks. Fuel was high, but if you had a big trailer and enough leads on scrap to stay busy, it paid pretty dang good. I was working full time, work on getting a trailer loaded in the evenings during the week, and run it in saturday morning. Sometimes my payday on saturday was as good or better then my paycheck on friday.

If by chance its still got a catylitic converter on it, cut it out of the exhaust. The oem coverters bring big bucks if youve got a place that buys metals. As stated above the junkyard wont give you much. Also as noted, remove the tires/wheels. If the tires are still good, you can reuse them or sell them. If the wheels are aluminum, scrap them seperately as aluminum. I always cut junk tires off of rims if scrapping (cheaper than paying to dismount them) Take the valvestem out so the air is let out and I cut em off the wheel with a salzall, grinder/cutoff wheel, The battery is worth some money too. This is all stuff you can do in a short amount of time and put 3 or 4 hundred bucks in your pocket.

Good for you! Thats gotta be a great feeling! You got alot luckier than I did, thats for sure! I got mine back as well, but in much different form. They dumped 5 gallons of gas on it and torched it ina field, property owner saw the smoke and went to investigate, by that time it was burned to the ground. Of course, I didnt want to tell you that earlier, you were already down enough!By the way, I bet you pull your keys next time!

Its no concilation, but I do know how you feel. Had a freshly painted 79 z28 stolen from my work at 9 oclock in the morning about 10 years ago. Parked right outside an open overhead door, there was about 10 of us at the fab shop at the time. We were all in and out of the building, they couldnt have timed it any better. Your right, its enough to make you sick. After a while, the rage sets in. I feel for you bud, I truly am sorry. Its a shame honest people have to pay for the ignorance of trash.

Thanks John, I did read that earlier this year. I was just wondering if you had heard through the grapevine of a date of release. Ill just have to keep an eye out on their website.

EFI won't ever happen, but Smarty UDC should.

Do you know who they sent your ecm to be rebuilt?

Best way to check is to have a helper turn the wheel for you while your under the truck. Check all steering components, balljoints, steering shaft, anything that turns.

I sure would hate to get stuck in the middle of rush hour in that thing

At least you dont have a payment to worry about! Sounds like you should be good to go for a while now :thumbup2:Did you get your truck brakes back together yet?

Have you looked at the tow ratings of any of the newer trucks? Maybe they didnt factor it 15 years ago, but the 4th gens and even the 3rd gens there is a huge difference from 3/4 ton to 1 ton srw and then up to a 1 ton drw. Maybe they werent smart enough to figure it out then, I dont know. But from 3/4 ton srw to a 1 ton drw (same cab,bed, and 4wheel drive configuration) there is a difference of thousands of pounds in the ratings. Maybe its just their way of throwing in a safety factor so that people arent out pulling loads with a srw that they really shouldnt be. But there is a difference in tow ratings, and rightfully so. Not trying to argue, just trying to clarify things. - - - Updated - - - If theres any way to run the front axle from your 00, Id be all over it. The 98 has pressed rotors, the 00 has slip on rotors. Plus the 00 (Im almost positive) has the bigger calipers than the earlier 98. It would definitely make maintenance a bunch easier!

4bt power on a 250 chassis... ooohhhhhhh bboooyyyy

Im not condemning the 3/4 tons as incapable of hauling a load... Ive had my 14k gvw tilt trailer overloaded more times than Id like to admit and my truck handled it everytime. Its definitely on the upper end of its limitations, but they are much more capable than the posted gcvw. I was just a little confused by ISX post where he said 3/4 tons have higher towing capacities Regardless of what dodge may post, we all know dually is going to be more stable pulling the same load a srw. With that bieng said, I have no plans of buying anything more than a 3/4 ton (or maybe a srw 1 ton), I just cant justify the extra cost of a drw for my needs. Unless I win the powerball and can afford all the toys of my dreams

But....Id have to leave my Cummins behind

Any way this could be weather related? My truck has historically dropped 2 to 3 mpg in mileage when the weather turned south because of the major changes in timing to maintain emissions. This is the first winter Ive had Mikes mpg fooler mod and so far my mileage has held rock steady at 19 - 20 mpg.

I actually talked to him a while back and he referred me to an aftermarket set up to replace the stock canister $$$$I just picked up a perfectly good running raptor 100 with the dual filter set up for 100 bucks so once I get that installed I think Ill be fine as far as filtration is concerned, Id just like to be able to add a finer filter in my stock canister bieng thats the last stop before the vp. That and I probably wont install the raptor 100 until spring, Im going to be dropping the tank to run the 1/2 inch lines and am not up to it in the cold weather. Ive got more than adequate pressure feeding my vp right now, so Im not in to big a hurry.

Speaking of better filtration, does anyone know of any 2-3 micron filters for the early 2nd gen vp stock canister? (98.5-99) Ive not had much luck with my local parts store guys. Sorry for the hi jack

You might also consider throwing them on a charger to keep them topped off every once in a while. A weak battery sitting in the cold may go dead after sitting for a week or two. I have a battery tender I put on my Mustang battery and I put it in the basement for the winter. The battery is several years old and holding up great. If I were to leave it sit with no charger every winter for several months at a time chances are it wouldnt have lasted this long.

That guy oughta go on that show called Pass Time on Speed Channel he would clean house over there

It amazes me how different peoples experiences with tires can be. One person can claim 85k miles from tire "X" while the next person claims half that. I wonder if ones driving habits and terrain could actually have that much effect? What really makes me wonder is if someone can get 85k miles out of tire X but only 40k out of tire "Y", is there that much difference in tire quality? Especially when someone else gets completely opposite results from the same tire. I guess my whole point in rambling is, if youve gotten good results from Yokohama in the past, youll probably get good results with them again. Theres so many variables in peoples experiences with tires I think its good to take it all in yet in the end your results may vary from others

You said there was alot of gunk at the inlet screen....I would check it again and if its plugged up again you may need to look into where its coming from that could very well be restricting things and causing your pressure drop.

Its all confusing I dont get where they got the ratings from either. Been looking at the ratings of newer models and. The ratings jump considerably between the srw and drw yet older models is minimal. And then like Mike posted from his book the max trailer tow for a 3/4 ton long bed auto w 3.54 gears is 9300 lbs. Then I pulled my sticker out of my glove box (exact same truck as above) and my rating is 9600 lbs. My truck is 4 years older, inferior front and rear brakes compared to the 02, and yet they have a higher rating. Thats going backwards the more I read, the more Im confused, I better quit now while I still know which way is up - - - Updated - - - That would certainly make sense! Gotsta get er whoa'd up before the law of physics grabs ya! But what makes sense is not always the case....

I agree with that statement completely but theres also the issue of whats safe. Ive been on the buisiness end of a few shady loads with my single wheel and would have given anything at the moment to trade my truck for a dually . When it comes to stability they are superior to single wheel trucks. The wider wheelbase and extra rubber gives the truck better leverage on a heavy load

I can see where the 3.54 gears wouldnt make a difference between a 3/4 ton and 1 ton simply because of the lack of leverage they give the truck on heavy loads. But add 2 tires to the rear with 4.10s and your capabilities increase....makes sense to me...Thats a very interesting link you posted ISX.....the formula is really wierd...according to that you can haul more with a tag than a gooseneck or a 5er? And they make no mention of 2wheel drive/4wheel drive, gearing, auto/standard, etc. As far as Ive known, these have always been factors in determining max loads and they dont mention any of that. Hmmm....Mike, what is the max tow rating of the 4wheel drive long bed auto? I cant make it out on my screen for some reason..that one part of the pic is blurry.

How do you figure this?