diesel4life

:drool:I need to move closer to you! You seem to eat pretty darn well!

If you plan on keeping your truck for another 10 years it may pay off unless you do a TON of driving it may not take as long...I think it would take a long time to recover 800 dollars in savings in fuel. The 3.55 gears work well for me with my auto there are a few times a year I wish i had the 4.10s. Maybe you could put an ad out on a few forums to see if somebody would be willing to swap you for gears?

Easiest way to tap into boost is with a boost bolt. Usually they come with the gauge (i think) if not they can be had for a few bucks. Taking the horn off and drilling and tapping is an option if you find the correct threads on the tubing end, just make sure ALL shavings are cleaned up before you reinstall. As for the lighting run a hot from each gauge tie them together in to your dimmer lights in your fuse panel. They make those fuse taps you can find them at most any auto parts store you plug them into your fuse panel in place of a fuse and its got 2 fuses built into it one to replace the fuse you just pulled and one to fuse your lighting you just tied in to. Others may have other suggestions, thats the way i put mine together and it worked well for me.

I would think that would work out pretty good. Are you having problems getting air out of. Your system when changing filters? Or just trying to simplify things?

Is it any coincidence election time is quickly approaching? Ive seen some stunts around here by our local politicians to try and draw attention to them but this takes the cake. I saw this guy in the news a while ago he supposedly went into a burning house and pulled some people out of a fire while fire fighters in full gear said it was too dangerous to go in. Pretty sure that was another publicity stunt too.

What about putting a valve just upstream of your filter? That way the line doesnt drain back and empty out when you open up the filter. Even if you put one before the vp i would think you still get air in the pump when filling the lines back up with fuel, unless you had a tee or something along with a valve just before the vp to crack open and bleed the air out before opening the valve to the vp. Antisieze has very good lubricating properties i generally use it on most all fittings before assembly even if theres no concerns for corrosion it helps to keep things from galling up and makes everything much easier to come apart.

Is that some kind of insulation over your grille?

[C rated tires are designed for dakotas and rangers, they would be grossly overloaded and dangerous to run on these heavy trucks. When i bought my former 2000 it had 8 plys on it. They were in good shape tread wise but the front end had a wobble to it i just couldnt figure out, esp if the truck was loaded. After checking the front end out a few times and having it aligned, i finally condemned the tires and bought a set of 10 plys. It felt like a different truck, night and day difference. Ill personally never use anything else on my rig. As far as a good mud tire, ive always had better luck with a slightly narrower tread. It lets you push past the slop that gums up your treads and digs right into the hard pack. Then again, it probably all depends on the area you live in. Around here once you get past the top soil theres generally a decent layer of clay underneath. Swampy areas may be a different story.

Us rustbelters can pretty well blow the whole loctite/anti corrosion claim out of the water that may be true in an everyday environment but where they use calcium chloride (aka super salt) nothing short of a quality nickel or copper grade anti sieze will do the trick. Antisieze is also excellent for bolts in high heat applications. At work when we have to thread stainless pipe, we will also use it as a lubricant for the threads. Stainless will gall very easily. A few wraps of teflon tape, followed by some antisieze and you can bury the threads to proper depth with little effort.. works much better than pipe dope as far as lubrication goes. Another benefit...comes apart much easier inthe event the line needs to be pulled apart again... lots and lots of uses for antisieze...

The duratrac by goodyear are a little pricey but so far they have been a great tire. They do very well in the snow and. As good as could be expected in the mud for a 7k plus truck. I agree with the statement about bieng too wide but thats all personal preference.

Just make sure you use a hose that is rated for fuel. Otherwise it could start breaking down over time and wreak havoc on your vp

Thats about enough to make my blood boil and its not even my car. If I payed 40k for a vehicle and found out some punk was out wearin the tires down to the rims, Id be wearin his as* out with my steel toe boot. Thats half the problem with people these days, no respect for people or property. We live in a very small community and last week I read in the police beat a 20-something year old kid got arrested for burglary and tresspassing. I dont know this guy but by the address listed in the paper I know who he is and have seen him out and about as he lives less than a quarter of a mile from us. Well the other day Im out back in the yard and I see him walking up the road and hes walking by real slow and staring inside my open garage door. Now Im not the wealthiest fella in the world but Ive got a few toys stashed in there along with a bunch of tools and such along with my mustang in the corner and this kid is so fixed on eyeballin my stuff he doesnt even see me or my 100 + pound shepard/lab, which by the way is VERY protective of the family and the house and has had his eye on this character since before I even saw him. He sees our house as HIS territory and does not take kindly to strangers. So I whisper to him "who is it kid" (I call him kid as a nickname because he was my very first kid before I had children) That was all it took he took off in a full sprint barkin and growling and the hair standing up on the back of his neck and meets this kid right at the edge of the yard. By this time hes not walking in the grass anymore hes out in the middle of the street back peddling. Once he figures out kid wont go out in the street (thats his boundry and he knows it well) this kid has the nerve to say "You need to get ahold of your mutt dude". I replied by saying "maybe next time you oughta walk on the other side of the road you wont pi*shim off so bad" He said a few swear words I wont repeat basically saying "I thought I was gonna get bit" I said "he might its hard to say" Now my dog isnt neccessarily vicous hes never bit anybody but then again I sure dont want this guy knowing that Im already paranoid enough as it is knowing a thief is only living right up the road from me. Now Im back to closing the garage door all the time keeping it locked if I go back inside Ive even been locking the cars lately. FRUSTRATING

not to hijack ya rancherman, but Im actually thinkin about changin my crank sensor out as well. I havent thrown any codes but as far as I know it has never been replaced making making it a 14 year old sensor which bothers me. I make a handful of long distance road trips evey year and my luck thats when it would decide to retire. Anybody else running their original sensors? Or am I WAY overdue? Im thinkin I already know the answer....

I think you may be talking about "Animal Farm" by George Orwell. It depicted many of the events that happened while Stalin was in power before the start of WWII.

I do have one pistol I keep loaded. Unfortunately it is so much out of reach if I ever did need it in a hurry, I may not be able to get it. Kids can be very unpredictable, and Ive always been really paranoid about one of them getting ahold of a loaded weapon. You can talk to them all you want, but when theyre little you just cant be too sure. I would never forgive myself if something bad ever happened. Its almost too much to even think about. On a good note, my youngest is coming of age and is getting to the point that I believe he truly does understand the dangers of them. He will be 7 soon. Im slowly bringing myself to the conclusion that I may soon be able to find a spot that is a little handier for me to stash my pistol.

The ecm is strictly engine management while the pcm does truck functions. Trans commands come from the pcm as well. On the vp 44 trucks the pcm is mounted on the firewall behind the air cleaner. Now as far as the swaps go, I havent ever done one but you wanting to keep it as simple as possible i would think sticking with a 47 re or 48re would be more practical . I personally think the allisons are a bit overated if you look at the duramax guys anybody who does any mods also have to beeef up their trans as well they just cant handle much above stock hp. For the money its going to cost you to convert an allison over and possibly have to rebuild you could build a more than adequate 47 or 48. You could look for a donor truck something that has been wrecked and even maybe find some extra useable parts as a bonus. Now obviously a 12 valve with a 5 speed would be the simplist choice no computers very little wiring to deal with but in the end its your project you do what trips your trigger Have you been on CF? Its a pretty big site lots of people doing all kinds of mods you may be able to find something there.

A receiver style platform that can hold a 700 pound machine? Where do you get those from? While there are advantages to a 5th wheel, a well balanced tag along will work just fine for most applications. I think thats what the op is trying to establish...

I agree, Hex. If only the govt and the media didnt "brainwash" America into thinking guns are dangerous weapons, I think society would be a much better safer place. Gun laws arent protecting anybody, theyre putting us in danger. The honest law abiding citizen is the only one who will adhere to these laws, not criminals. If as many good samaritans carried a gun as there are criminals running around with them, I feel there would be less crime. Guns make them feel like they have an advantage over someone who doesnt, if they thought for a minute the person behind the counter had a bigger piece than them, they may think twice about robbing the place. I am not an avid hunter, but you can bet Ive got a few handguns around the house. Yes theyre kept unloaded and out of reach of my young children, but theyre very easily accessible. And from the time they were old enough for me to tell them, Ive had many talks with them about their uses and dangers. Ive even taken them out back so they could see me shoot them so they had an idea about what they are, and the dangers associated with them. Knowledge is important, I dont want them turning out like our govt who think guns are evil and should be outlawed.

I could be wrong, but Ive always thought that the main factor in the strength of a bolt (other than size) was the depth and pitch of the threads. If thats the case, I think a courser thread would be stronger. Take a look at a drill and tap chart, for example. You can look at any given size bolt and the recomended drill size will always be smaller for a courser thread than a finer thread. My reasoning is the smaller the hole drilled, the more "meat" the bolt will have to grab once threaded in. Just my thoughts...As far as loctite I very rarely use loctite except on critical parts such as flywheel bolts or where vibration or rotation may cause loosening. I live in the heart of the rustbelt so for me I wirewheel the bolt and am very liberal with anti sieze.Ok this kind of peaked my interest so Ive been looking at some sites online you are right ISX the fine threasdoes have a higher strength than the course. I find this rather interesting because you just dont see fine threaded bolts in nearly as many aplications as course thread. I was only going by my experiences where I work we deal with large bolts like 1 and 1/4 dia and up and torque values well up over 1000 lbs in certain applications. The majority of what we use are studs not bolts. And all are course thread, grade 8, something like 13 tpi. We work in an enviremont that is very corrosive and in some applications the studs/bolts see constant temps over 500 degrees. One example is the outlet piping coming out of the top of our reactors the exit temp of the offgas exceeds 1800 degrees. Now all this pipe is refractory lined so the steel temp may only be around 400 to 500 degrees. If they are properly antisiezed, they will usually come right out. If theyve been put together dry, youd swear they were welded together after youve rattled your teeth out with a 1" impact hooked to 150 psi of nitrogen! Ok, Im starting to wander off track, just wanted to correct myself.

Did you buy a brand new ecm, 98?

The county I live in is the largest in Ohio in terms of sq miles and one of the least populated. The largest city is about 30 thousand people and from there it drops down to just small communities. Last year, facing major budget short falls, the sheriff dept had to make serious cuts. There is now 1 deputy per shift to cover the entire county. With so much area to cover, they may as well have eleiminated the department all together. There is just no way one deputy can cover such a large area and handle everything that is needed. When this first went into effect, the sheriff made a live televised appearance to warn the community of the hard times ahead. He stated "Everyone who can arm themselves had better do so, because I am no longer able to protect you. Defend yourselves, your family, and your property." I sure hope nobama doesnt make it another round, he sure hasnt made any progress in this area which is largely agricultural.

Cant give you much of a comparison, but I have the trunion style wirh bars and I also run a sway contol bar. WD helps tremendously esp when I get up over 10k on my trailer. I had never towed with one before, up until about a year and a half ago. Only regret I have is not getting one sooner. I dont have a camper but if I did, the sway bar would be a must if it works well with a flat bed trailer I can only imagine what it would do with a kite hangin off the back of my truck in a cross wind

Are you plowing for yourself or are you planning on doing this to make money? If doing the latter, you almost have to put some of that money away you make for a rainy day when the repair man comes. Its not a matter of if, but when. The extra weight hanging off the front end will wear everything out much quicker. Also, if you live in an area where they use salt, your truck will rust quicker than normal because your out on the roads more than you would be if you werent plowing. It is possible to make some money plowing, but you have to be willing to sacrifice your truck, to an extent. You may be better off buying a cheap 4x4 and use it to plow or maybe even look around for an older truck/plow combo. I know around here when it gets closer to winter, I see ads in the paper for them Ive seen em for around 3 or 4 thousand truck/plow combo yeah the truck may be a little beat up but your just going to beat it up even more. Depending on what kind you buy you could easily spend that on just a plow anyhow. On the other hand, if your just going to use it to plow yourself and maybe a family members driveway and then unhitch it right away you could get away with running one off your dodge for a long time with no real ill effects.

The vp and the fuel canister are metric fittings (12mm). Vulcan has adapters to go from 12 mm to 1/2". Ive priced similar fittings theyre hard to come by and for the price of the big line kit they offer i think youd be better off just ordering their kit. Just my opinion, it would be much easier than trying to tap the housing. Even if you went that route, youd still have to do something with the vp and id be afraid to even try tapping those threads.

Thats interesting. if i have mine on diesel a its way out of wack reads like .02 gph and barely climbs going down the road. Diesel b i think the mpg is realistic accelerating but at steady cruising higher than avg but like i said it seems to be improving since i first hooked it up. What do you mean by ccd network?