diesel4life

AH, Im assuming the egr is what turns your oil so fast? Have you ever cleaned your egr valve? Dont know alot about them thats why Im asking.My motorhead cousin has always done a trick similar to what your doing, with gas engines (he doesnt own a diesel). Once a year, at an oil change, he will buy a cheap oil filter along with cheap oil, change his oil with the cheap stuff and substitute a quart of oil for a quart of ATF. He will start the engine, and let it idle for 15 to 20 minutes or until it reaches operating temps. Then he drains and refills with a quality oil and filter. The first time this is done to a vehicle it may make your new oil look black right away, this is the sludge deposits coming loose. And may need done again. As we all know, ATF is an excellent detergent. Ever notice when you work on your trans how clean your hands are when your done? It does the same thing to the inside of an engine. My cousin drives high mileage vehicles, you can pull the dipstick on his engine and it looks cleaner than most new vehicles. Even at the 4 to 5k mile mark, it still looks pretty darn good.

I have just read through this thread for the first time and while i have a 24v I can maybe offer a little insight to the op. Ive noticed in a few of your posts where you are getting higher egts while running in od, maybe either puling a grade or while pulling a trailer. Our auto trans are geared quite high, actually higher than I think they should be at times particularly when gtowing heavy. Rather than letting the trans shift into overdrive when towing, I will tend to use the od button to keep it in 3rd gear if Im running under 50 mph. If im towing heavy and/or a steep grade, I may even hold it in 3rd until 55. Even at that speed, Im still only turning about 2200 rpm. This drops the egt substantially, while leaving gobs of power on tap. At 50 mph, if i let it drop into od, that will drop my rpm down to 1200 to 1300 rpm. Now i can run that speed empty on flat ground, but any other combo will produce higher egts. Do you have a lock up switch for your tc? I installed one and it makes a difference at those lower speeds esp when towing. Just my .02, its a topic I havent really seen anyone hit on yet maybe worth trying...

John do you have cut off wheels for your grinder? That is what i do right from the get go i will cut the old u joint just inside the ears. Once the center of the u joint is out, you only have to press one cup out at a time. At that point i can do it with just a vice i dont even need a press.

The white house will be passing it out along with our new tax hikes the first of the year The local news had a chart of Ohio and how each county voted - let me tell you Obama did not win by majority vote. But because Obama won the big ones with all the electoral votes he "won" Ohio. This is not the general reflection of our state but hey were just a bunch of dumb farmers our opinion doesnt mean squat

Probably not as big a deal with the front but always a good idea to scribe a mark before you drop any driveshaft. While youve got that universal apart, are you rebuilding the double cardan joint? I had to rebuild the one on my truck at 68k miles was more from lack of use than abuse the 4wheel drive was almost never used by the original owner and the truck sat quit a bit too boot.

I find it hard to believe that Ohio is so tight in the polls. Everywhere I drive throughout my community I see Romney signs. In front yards, peoples cars, even the front of buisinesses. Now while this certainly does not reflect on the entire state, I made a trip last week to Cincinnatti and saw the same thing. I drove from the extreme northeast corner of the state to the southwest corner and Romney supporters were very dominant. There were even large banners on the side of I 71 supporting him. Very surprising at how few people are out showing their support for Nobama. Which begs the question, where are all these voters at? Sitting at home, collecting welfare, medicaid, and/or their year and a half worth (or whatever hes put it up to now) of unemployment that we as a country cant afford? Me thinks so.

I personally would be leaning towards keeping it for the simple fact that you know the history of the car. I tend to hang on to vehicles for many years because Im more comfortable with something Ive owned, driven, and maintained then to have to buy someone elses headaches. If it were me I would have the trans looked into, and if it is ok it would be a no brainer. New vehicles are not worth the money IMO by the time you pay them off youve got a used car with the same problems the car you traded it in for had. The best part about what youve got going for you, is its paid for.

You are correct, AH. The owner of the smarty will have to return his truck to stock, download a performance tune to the "donor" truck, and then return that truck back to stock. All the updates will remain. If you are running oversized tires you can also have your speedo recalibrated.

Dont know how much it could really save you from what ive seen the kits are pretty pricey. By the time you figure that into the cost along with the propane itself...

Have you played with different settings on your smarty? I actually saw worse #s for mpgs on the economy tune. I generally run sw5 and have it tweaked just slightly and i run consistantly 20 to 21 mpgs. The economy tune is also not recomended for any heavy towing as it has aggressive timing and egts tend to run high when using that tune. Not everyone has the same results the. Biggest factor is HOW you drive. I dont hotrod (well maybe once in a blue moon) but 99% of the time im in economy mode cant afford the fuel and cant afford to fix it when it breaks.

If you have leaks in your fuel system youve no doubt got air in your system which will give inaccurate readings to your gauge. Fix your leaks , bleed the air out, and see what you get. As for the pipe sealant, that stuff is overrated. The threads will seal themselves things like teflon tape and pipe dope are designed to provide lubrication for the threads to keep them from galling up. I generally use just a touch of Antisieze on most threads it is an excellant lubricant and makes things much easier coming apart.

Yes if you could build a system to hold the higher pressure you could technically run hotter. But hotter is only better to an extent and then it begins to be detrimental. Keep in mind them nascar boys have real deep pockets they dont hesitate to scrap a 60k dollar motor after only one race! Between qualifying and practice and the race they typically see no more than 500 to 600 miles on an engine before they yank it and disassemble it for inspection.

If the cooling system is designed to run under 215 then somewhere not too far past you will begin pushing water as well. All downhill from there :wtf:Nascars systems are designed for much higher pressure which allows them to run such high temps before the water boils and eventually pushes out the overflow. They also see oil temps as high as 240. Again, all in the design of the oil.

Most important thing to look for in an injection pump is buying a new computer. Lots of places will advertise all about their warranties, prices, etc but will not mention their computers. Many will bench test the used computer on a core pump if it passes inspection it gets passed on to you. Who knows how long it will last, maybe a day past your warranty maybe 10 years. You just have no way of telling how many heat cycles are on that computer so its best to buy new. I have a Blue Chip pump i have heard alot of comments he is way over priced all i know is he is the most knowledgeable person Ive ever talked to regarding the fuel systems on our trucks. If you havent checked his website out you should even if you dont buy from him it is a very informative site there is tons of info to pick up on from him.

Just keep in mind that if it truly is the apps it could go completely out at any time on you with nowarning. For example, when mine went it first started acting up over 350 miles from home in between nowhere and some place it tripped the cel so once i got pulled off out of the way and figured out what was going on i reset it and luckily continued on home with zero issues. Went out the following morning to unhook the trailer and go fuel up and went to pull out and the truck fell flat on its face. Tried resetting again and did not help. It was bad too i couldnt even get up to speed. So be careful about going far from home or pulling out in traffic until you get it resolved

I drive conservatively i dont do burn outs i dont brake hard or corner hard and I keep my tire pressures in check - keeping them inflated according to load. If im not towing I can get 20 to 21 mpg consistantly to a tank of fuel. It could be a little better but i think my tire size and tread are limiting me. I think what hurts me are all the gravel roads and the couple of months a year i haul for my friend in the spring has me down poor lease roads and fields occasionally. I would love to find a set of 4th gen wheels and eventually be able to put a good radial on them and then save my duratracs for when i need them. It would help me with my mileage a little and i wouldnt be wearing out my duratracs prematurely i could just save them for winter and springtime.

The 2013 ram 1500 have shutters on the front grille. They open and close according to engine temps. I also read that they are bagged and ghe faster you drive down the road the lower the truck sits to the ground. Likewise if your doing some offroading you can pump em up a few inches. Probly just enough to get ya in trouble!

I threw mine under the back seat before i took off for Cincinnatti just in case but really wasnt expecting to need them as I was pulling a trailer. Even at freeway speeds my temp never got up above 180 and by the time i would get to the bottom of a hill where i wasnt in the gas much it had dropped 4 or 5 degrees. I took the boys with me as they had no school for 2 days and we had to stop for a bathroom break about an hour and a half into the trip and i put one side on. She ran right at 190 after that but even then my temps were still dropping to the low to mid 180s on the downhills so I probably could have put both sides on. This was with temps in the low 40s.This morning i put the other side on ill be making another trip to New York over the weekend and its supposed to be colder i figure its safe to assume we wont be getting anymore warm weather

Not bashing just telling of a friends experiences. In my opinion, Ford does make a good truck but since the 7.3 days there engine program has struggled. I know of a few 6.0 engines in the international 5 ton trucks and they have been ok the only problem i know that hes had was injector failure but in the ford pickups theyve got some different emissions equip and from what i see thats been theyre major failures. Not too many people own them around here, but everyone I see spends more time sitting in the driveway then running down the road

He was on a mission in that picture! He has slowed down alot lately but in his younger years he would run all day. When we would go for hikes i swear he would put down 5 miles to my one! Now he goes out ahead a little but mainly stays close his hips are getting pretty bad

A friend from work bought his first diesel last year to haul a recently inherited 32 ft tt. Against my recomendations he bought an 06 ford. His reasoning was ford makes a good truck so why would the diesel be any different. I do agree with the firwt part of his statement bought we all know he was i. Left field with the last part. The truck was completely stock no egr delete or anything. After he bought it i told him he really should look into some ford forums about doing the necessary deletes to make it at least halfway reliable. He again said no every engine ive ever seen is best left in stock form. Not my truck so i left it at that. His first trip with the camper they were 600 miles from home and wouldnt you know it the truck overheated. He shut it down before he cooked it had it towed and at the advice of the mechanic ended up doing the delete after he had to have his rad flushed repeatedly. Ended up spending half there vacation in a town they hadnt planned on as it happened on a weekend and had to wait until monday. Since then hes had an oil pump failure and an injector failure and a cam sensorfailure the first 2 left him on the side of the road the cam sensor happened right in the parking lot at work. He put an edge programmer on it about 6 months ago and was hot rodding it one day on an aggressive tune and ended up lifting the head gasket on the right bank. The stealership told him they have to lift the cab to pull the motor and its going to be big $$$$ just to do a head gasket so the truck is sitting until he can figure something out. The wife wants it gone shes been stranded enough in it her and the kids are afraid to go anywhere in it. I feel bad for the guy but at the same time he didnt do hardly any research before he bought it which is a big no no in my book.Have you driven a ford lately?

Good lookin dog there! Ive been around labs all my life I think they are great dogs. My buddy is really getting up in age he will be 13 in January. Hes been around since before my kids were born and they are like best buds he follows them everywhere.

I would check into any vacuum leaks as mike said before you replace the sender. My truck will read 80 to 85 psi cold and roughly the same as you when warm. Its been that way as long as ive owned it and i have zero blowby.

The surging could be from a bad tps (otherwise known as an apps sensor). You would most likely have a code to go along witn that but thats not always the case. If your going to have it replaced, dont let the dealer do it. Theyll want to replace the entire belle crank assembly along with the sensor which is totally unecessary. You can buy just the sensor for around 160 bucks aftermarket iirc compared to 800 bucks from the dealer. Thats the only way its available through the dealer they dont offer just the apps. Its a simple swap takes maybe 20 minutes. - - - Updated - - - Im starting to think having an auto may be the problem. Ive done the calibration just the way mike stated and no luck. I watch the numbers closely (without staring too long!) and the numbers go from believable to wacked as soon as i start leveling off from accelerating. Or when i have to be in the throttle to maintain a speed it seems fine but as soon as i back off the pedal just a little bit my numbers start jumping. Ive got a tc lock up and if ive got my converter locked things seem a little closer. I think i may try calibrating again just like the first time when i bought it to see if i get any difference.

Ive not been having any luck with my scangauge. Ive gone over the instructions several times hopiing i missed something but ive done everything to the t. The only time it shows believable numbers is when i have to be in the throttle to maintain a speed or when im acceslerating. But when im on flat ground and maintaining a speed it gets way outta whack. Its constantly off by 4 to 6mpg and its off by several gallons every fill up. Anybody have any luck with one of these with an automatic? I just dont know what i could be doing wrong...