diesel4life

If i start out in 1st with the tc locked, it will dump the gears quickly. itll shift into od before im even up to 35. The only way i can get it to up shift normally is with the tc unlocked. - - - Updated - - - So what your doing is accelerating like you normally would with the tc unlocked and then throwing the switch once you get into od? Ive read where other people throw their switch from the start and this helps their mileage at lower speeds and city driving because the converter is locked instead of slipping but im not seeing it bieng it just rifles through the gears until you get to od. I could always keep it out of overdrive i suppose that would help some. I suppose ill just have to drive it and play with it a little to see what works best

I was testing my switch to make sure i was getting power to it and for some odd reason i was getting 12 volts regardless of the position of the toggle. So i threw another one in (yes another brand new one) and it works like a ding dong now. So basically i had a brand new junk toggle switch. Such is life these days......anyhow, im surprised/disapointed at the difference in shifting. I guess i assumed i would retain the same shift points i normally have but boy oh boy thats not the case! It dumps the gears one after the other until im in 4th.. the reason i did this mod was number 1 ive heard you can slightly increase your mileage with it bieng in lock up and number 2 i plan on getting an exhaust brake in the near future. Hey 98, does yours dump the gears super quick too when your accelerating?

Its about as straight forward as it gets ive rechecked to make sure ive got the right terminals so many times im beginning to feel like im ocd. Soon as i jumper the relay and turn the key to on, the selonoid in the trans starts goin nuts. Im going to try to talk to someone from tst to see if they have any suggestions this afternoon

Anybody ever do their own tc lock up switch? Tst products has a write up t install one for the cost of a toggle switch and a little wire. They tell you to splice into the orange and brown wire coming out of the middle plug at the ecm, run a wire to a toggle switch and then come out of the other leg to ground. Then they tell you to pull the trans relay and jump 2 specific terminals to give the tc lock selonoid constant power. The problem im having is when i jump these 2 terminals the selonoid (im assuming) starts to click rapidly in the trans. This does not seem right and i unplugged it as soon as i located the source of the noise. Anybody have this issue?according to theyre diagram ive got the right terminals and it seems as though alot of other people have done this with no issues...????

I just got done doing a brake job on a friends chrysler cirrus. She said her brakes were "grinding". So i told her pick some pads up bring it over and if it needs anything else ill run and get it. Pulled the front passenger tire off and found a rotor just like the one pictured. I pulled the caliper off and showed her the pieces and she looked at it shrugged her shoulders and said "can you fix it?" I asked how long the brakes had been squeaking and she said about a month but i just turn the radio up so i cant hear it.

My 2000 that i had prioor to my current truck developed the same issue. It had about 340k on the oriignal rear end. The clutch packs can get plugged up over time and will not work effectively. I ended up pulling the assembly completely out, sprayed the clutches liberally with brake clean (ithink i used about a can and a half) and then blew it out with compressed air. While i was in there i replaced the pinion and axle seals and reassembled. i put several thousand miles on it before i sold it to my friend he daily drives it and has not had any other issues with it since.

Bet they need help cleaning some of that mud off...

If you look under the dash there should be a hole with a rubber gromett just to the left of where the main wiring harness comes through the firewall. Should be more than enough to get your hose through unless your already using it to run other stuff through the firewall.

Hopefully hes smart enough to keep an eye out for pedestrians!

Patiently (sort of) waiting for this to trickle down to the vp's.

Have you developed any new leaks around the diff area recently? That could be an indication of a problem too and a good place to start looking.

It may not be feasible bieng in a campground but I would jack the rear end up support it with jackstands that way you can rotate everything to better pinpoint where the noise is coming from. It could very well be u joints, but its odd that it gets worse as you turn sharp? To me that seems like it could be diff related. Jacking it up and and freeing the tires up to turn should help you pinpoint the source.

On my truck there is another hole with a rubber gromet just to the left of where the big harness comes through the firewall (looking under the dash inside the cab). It is just to the right of the parking brake lever.

What are you looking to do? My mother owns a cabin in south eastern Wyo. up above Centennial. Lots of places to primitive camp, a few places to park r.v.'s and theres even some cabin rentals at the base. Its very remote, no cell phone service withen 30 miles of her cabin. In the winter the whole area is crawling with skiers and snowmobilers. In the summer time some of the trails are open to a.t.v.s, but not very many. Lots of good hiking and fishing too. A great area if your looking to "get away".

Im assuming you will still have to have the ecm flashed? I was looking under the '98s and i noticed theres 2 different ecms listed and one is double the price of the other. I wonder what the difference is?

Traitor!! Just kidding. Ivebeen in ohio most of my life but have not seen much of the state out side of the northeastern corner. I live on pymatuning lake and 20 miles roughly from Lake Erie. What I love most about the area is we truly do have 4 seasons here and each season is pretty in its own way, esp the fall. Ashtabula county is one of the best regions in the country for wine making because we get a decent sping (usually), hot summers, and seasonable fall. And the ground is very fertile around the great lakes.

Welcome to the site. I spent. A good part of my childhood in Laramie. My mom, brother, and sister are still living there and some other family in Douglas, Wheatland, and Cheyenne. Very pretty country out that way, I get out to see them as often as I can.

Just came across this thread. Where abouts in north east ohio are you Bryan? Im in Ashtabula county, about as northeast as you can get.

I dont think youll be able to get one through chip for that price, unless you buy one with a used computer. I could be wrong, its been a while since i was on his site and honestly I havent looked at prices since I bought mine. Wherever you go, keep in mind that the cheaper pumps will most likely be offered with a used computer. In my mind, its a complete waste of money to spend over a thousand dollars and still settle for a pump with a used computer. Case in point my friend purchased one (rebuilt v.p. with used computer) about a month after I bought mine. He rediculed me for spending over $1600 on mine through Chip while he went through another site (I wont say which) and got one for just over a grand. They sold him on the pump stating "our used computers go through stringent tests and I would put them up against a new one any day." Well he didnt even get 5000 miles on his rig and the computer went south. Thankfully it was still under its short lived warranty (barely) and he got it replaced. But its another pump with another used computer, who knows how long it will last? I wouldnt want that in the back of my mind everytime I left town, thats for sure. The computer is where nearly all the issues with the v.p. are. Its well worth the extra few hundred bucks to upgrade to the new computer, at least in my opinion. Happy shopping!

I wanna be on your team! Even with the lightest of pedals, Ive only been able to crack low 20s. Id love to be able to get into the realm of the 12 valves as far as mileage goes. Ive been looking into your guys IAT foolers and am interested in getting one together before the weather turns. I had a 2000 before my '98 and have always seen the drastic change in mileage from warm weather to cold but was never smart enough to understand why. This site has opened my eyes in alot of aspects with our 2nd gen rigs!

You probably already know this but your lift pump will only kick on AFTER you bump the ignition. Just turning the key to on will not turn the lp on. But the fact that its reading 0 p.s.i. once you get it to kick is suspect for a new lift pump, esp if you are investing in a new v.p. As far as help goes, not sure who is in your area but if you cant find anybody blue chip diesel has an excellent website. Hes got a very detailed yet simple write up for swapping out your pump. Hes a great guy to talk to if your having any problems with your 2nd gen truck. If you buy your pump through him, he gives you 2 weeks (I think) to get your core back to him before he charges you. And hell let you use the gear puller you will need for free. You simply send it back with your core when your finished. Good luck.

Anytime i have ever dropped that much speed ive always picked up mpg's. Were you pulling heavier this time? Running different or under inflated tires? Seems like there would have to be something going on to offset the mileage?

We just got back from visiting family on the coast of New Jersey. Averaged 18.9 mpg totalon 1100 miles round trip. I kept track of highway mileage which was a hair under 21 and that was driving between 65 and 70. What killed us was running around wildwood crest all week which is a resort town on the shore. Traffic lights every block and everybody holeshots off the green. People definitely live in the fast lane out there! I was Definitely out of my element bieng i live in the heart of farm country. This was the first road trip without pulling a trailer so i kept a pretty tight record as i was curious what kind of numbers i would get.

The apps sensor will need to be calibrated once its installed. I think Ive heard of a few instances where people can bolt them on and be fine but thats just hearsay. Most likely it will be out of spec and you will still have issues such as the dead pedal feel until its calibrated. There should be instructions with the sensor when it comes in the mail. Im sure theres threads in this forum you can look up to familiarize yourself with it, its not difficult by any means to do.

Does the owner offer any insight as to why the hesitation before the trans engages? Does it do this only after start up, or will it do it even after its been running for a few minutes? When i rebuilt my trans, I removed the checks in my cooler lines at the advice of my tranny guy. He recomended this because hes seen them fail in the past, creating a blockage in the line. The only function of them is to prevent the trans cooler and the lines (coming from the cooler mounted on the side of the block) from draining back down into the pan when the truck is shut off. If my truck has been sitting and I start it up and attempt to take off, I have the same symptom you describe. I simply wait 5 to 10 seconds ( depending on how cold the truck is and how long its been sitting) before putting it in gear and life is good.