diesel4life

Good idea, CSM. Lots of people would benefit from this, for sure. On the slip on rotors you asked about, you are right 99 was the last year of the rotors bieng pressed into the hub. 2000 had the slip ons. I also wanted to mention that although 99 percent of the 2500 autos have the dana 70, it is possible they had the 80. I found this out on my previous 2000 auto when i had to tear into it for repairs and received the wrong parts when i ordered for a 70. I talked to local dealership and it had been ordered this way. Anyhow, all rear dana axles should be stamped on the left side of the pinion on the bottom side, kind of in the crotch where the tube and the pumpkin meet. Good luck with everything, youll certainly have your work cut out for you!

I think it possibly could come and go with operating temps. When mine went out, it tried to give me a warning a few times before it went for good and it was always when i first fired it up after it had been sitting. i would take off, and it would falter or stumble briefly and the check engine light would come on. Once it warmed up, it wouldnt do it any more. This happened 3 times before it went south for good. Are you getting any codes when this happens? Maybe it could be a battery situation? Low voltage when you first start it ad it takes a little while to recharge your batt and then everythings fine? Low voltage makes these trucks do strange things ive seen that first hand too

Most all battery chargers these days have to detect some voltage before they will charge. If they were totally dead its probably what prevented your charger from ever kicking on.

I cant really comment on stacking and how they will work together but that does sound logical. As long as you are using the even catchers on the smarty I would think it might work. As for the winter software of the smarty, Im assuming you mean the cold weather high idle? Once you have downloaded a catcher into your ecm the feature will be there always. However, it really doesnt work unless its very cold out because it doesnt kick into high idle according to outside air temps it kicks on according to intake air temps. Even when the truck has been sitting, youre instantly making heat once you turn the ignition on due to the heater elements cycling on and off. So like I say its really gotta be cold for the high idle to kick on. And if you plug your truck in during the cold weather (I do) you will not see the high idle at all because of the warm temps of the coolant. Ive actually ordered and am waiting on a high idle/mpg fooler from prowelder so that I can take advantage of the high idle feature when I want it.

My mom in southeastern Wyoming has been dealing with similar issues up where her cabin is. The drought compounded with the beetles moving through some years ago wreaking havoc and killing everything in theyre wake has wiped out some serious acreage all around her. She has been a nervous wreck all summer long praying her area in particular doesnt go up in flames. Shes had some close calls, within 7 or 8 miles, has been lucky so far. Im sure all of you will be glad to see some snow fall. Glad to see your doing ok

Sounds like it could be the tc lock - unlock issue Ive heard about on here although Ive never experienced it. Could also be an apps issue when mine went out I could keep a steady position of the throttle with my foot but the rpms were going all over the place. But I would think you would have thrown a code if that was the case. So, if no codes, possibly bad or loose connections / grounds? Im not sure if the tc lock issue would bring any codes up or not?

May you have a speedy recovery

Only thing I can think of is possible hole(s) in fuel line? How long ago did you do the draw straw? Are you sure your not having an issue there? Seems like a new pump should very well be gushing fuel at this point... I would inspect you fuel line as best you can going from tank to lp and replace if any doubts. Good luck.

What year is your buddies truck? at 9000 pounds it sounds like he needs to go to a one ton. my 2nd gen is maxed out at 8800 I wouldnt wanna run around at that weight on a daily basis thats gotta be hell on his front end!

What series does your friend race his z in? I used to have a 1st generation 280z that I would take down to nelsons ledges (a closed circuit road course here). It was such a blast bieng able to open up and giver er all she had, or sometimes all I had! Thoe z cars have all been very fast little cars with really good handling abilities. I sure do miss it

Do you know whats allowing 2nd gear to lock up? Ive got a built trans so im not worried about it bieng able to handle it id like to get it done.

I just did the home made version of the lock up switch. Once i throw the switch no matter what gear im in it dumps right to 4th unless i have the od button pushed then it goes to 3rd. And it will not down shift until i flip the switch again. There may be aftermarket set ups that you can buy that are a little better im not sure. Ive also heard the only way to get 2nd to lock up is to replace silonoids in the valve body im going to be looking into that shortly

Let me know what you decide on a price

Did ypu get it running? Did you buy the fass or the raptor ffrp?

Ive actually been thinkin about pickin one up lately ive heard good things about them and i like some of the features they offer. If your serious about selling it how much would you want for it? Im in ohio so i dont know what shipping would cost but i could check into it.

Please let us know what you findo out. I did the lock up switch recently. Dont have an e brake at the moment but im saving up towards one and id be interested to know if the switch i have is enough or if ill need something else. What did you do to your vb to get it to lock in 2nd? Thanks in advance, im sure you are looking to get answers not receive questions...

Welcome to the site. Lots of useful info on here, actually the best forum around. Cant be much help for a dealer in your area, but if you post your issues up some other 3rd gen owners may be able to relate to what your experiencing. Im sure once you get er ironed out, youll love your rig and enjoy it as much as we all do

Well the worst is over if thats what your asking. I havent caught much today but as of yesterday there were several thousand people that had to be evacuated from their homes because a few levees had burst, flooding out many neighborhoods. I saw 2 story homes totally underwater on the news. FEMA held a conference and said that many areas were hit harder by the flooding than 7 years ago when Katrina came through. Sounds like another long road to recovery for alot of folks. I dont know how they do it, that would be so disheartening to see everything you own ruined time and time again by floods.

What kind of toggle switch are you using? I just went through this process a few weeks ago and iused a 3 post toggle switch, the kind that lights up when you flip it on. Long story short when you flip the switch to ground it doesnt actually go to ground it just powers the 3rd post on the toggle switch which makes it light up. I thought the switch was bad at first and swapped it with a plain jane 2 post. Toggle and it worked fine. Also, just to clarify, your supposed to splice into the wire coming out of the pcm. Dont cut it and leave a dead leg.

Yes, the so6 has 9 settings. You will probably never use #4,6, or 8 because those settings have no timing advance and are designed to run with a timing box or another source of advancement. I only use the odd numbers, those are all tunes with added timing accorrding to the level of fuel and boost fooling the tune does. I used the smarty a lttle bit on a 2000 that i had prior to my 98 it can be ran if you have a light foot but the higher tunes will definitely slip the converter if you get into it. Theres an economy setting i cant remember which setting it is but ive had better mileage running catcher #7 than the economy tune. Alot of it has to do wiith the way you drive, too. When i first ran my smarty in my 98 with my built trans my tires hated me:nono: but i quickly got that out of my system when i had to pluck 1100 bucks in tires out as i was getting ready to go on a road trip and was running around on dry rotted tires from the previous owner.

For those who have direct tv, channel 325 has round the clock coverage of whats going on down there. Pretty sobering stuff.

I personally dont know the difference between the 2, you could probly check em out on smartys website to see the differences. ive got a smarty So6 for my 98 and i love it. I run mine on #7 which is towards the upper end of the performance tunes but i only run it because i see the best mileage on that tune. I dont hot rod my truck im in it for the mileage and thats where its best at, i think because it runs fairly aggressive timing. Plus when im towing, theres plenty of extra low end torque which is always a plus. You can also pull up and clear any dtc's you may get and you can also recalibrate your speedometer if you have non factory size tires. I personally think the smarty is a good investment for these trucks. Forthose that are in it for horsepower, it WILL roast the tires off the rim:whistle:

Ive been following the channel dedicated to hurricane issac. Those poor people down there just cant catch a break. the hurricane appears to have been much worse than anticipated due to the fact that it has literally stalled out once making landfall. Theyre already saying the flooding has become significantly worse than katrina, as much as 25 inches of rainfall in the past day and a half. Praying for everybody down there, theyve got a long ways to go as levees are continuing to fail and people bieng evacuated as we speak.

Do you have any spare batteries laying around? Even if you dont, if this is something your only using once a year you could even pull a battery out of another vehicle or tractor or whatever youve got sitting around and throw it in the back of your truck, and when you get to wherever your going simply set it on the trailer next to your winch and hook it up. For as little as your going to be using it, a battery with a good charge will have more than enough to winch something up on your trailer. And once you get home, you can throw the battery on a charger and put it back in whatever you pulled it out of. Just another suggestion, it would certainly be about your cheapest option. Ive done this before withno way of charging the battery while drawing from it and havent had any issues.

Ive got an 800 cca bat mounted on my trailer, grounded to the frame, and a positive lead tied into the acc term in my junction box. That way its always charging when the trailer is hooked to the truck and ive never had any issues dragging anything up on my 14k trailer.