diesel4life

I heard an unofficial report of a school getting wiped out and all the students were still in it.....gosh I hope I heard wrong.

Nice lookin trailer Hex. I might have missed it, but is it a toy hauler? Hard to tell from the angle of the pics.

Looking good denhop!Sooo, could you grab an extra gear with no weight on the rear end?

Hey 98, can I ask what you have planned for your truck down the road that caused you to decide to make the swap? Pulling or drag racing? Reason I'm asking is usually the only time I ever see someone go this route is because they're going for huge horsepower beyond the 600HP mark vp is capable of.

Schaeffers has a blue ish tint to it coming right out of the bottle....

John, I think we have some wierd telepathy thing going on....

I believe your turbo should be an HX? being your truck is a standard and should be wastegated around 22 psi. They make a boost elbow that screws in place of the factory fitting on the compressor housing and it is adjustable to 35 psi. They are around 20 bucks IIRC.I'm assuming you have already checked to make sure you do not have any boost leak?

I see in your sig you have a "built" trans. Not sure how far in depth you went with it but keep in mind most of the time thats going to be the weak link. For instance I recently helped a buddy install a set of 60's on his truck. His trans has a basic shift kit and new clutches and valvebody, slightly higher line pressure but retained factory replacement tc all with less than 40k miles since rebuilt. With just the injectors alone his tc slips under heavy throttle running EMPTY. He originally wanted to try my Smarty after the injector install to see if he liked the combo, no way is that going to happen until he sinks some more money into his trans. Even 75 hp injectors is probably going to give you well over 100 ft lbs of torque. More power is always funner to play with, but if your keeping the factory HY turbo and tow alot more fuel can become more problems. I intentionally stayed on the conservative side (40 HP) for truck reliability and I also wanted to retain healthy towing manners. I recently took a trip down south with a lot of 6-8% grades some which were 2 or more miles long and I was peaking at around 1100 degrees towing with my set up 275s with Smarty tweaked on level 5. I'm really not sure how much more fuel I could have been able to use before having to back out of the throttle?? As it was I used whatever I needed and the truck ran great.Theres nothing set in stone with what you can and cant run it largely depends on how you use your truck and of course your right foot.

Only Dorothy and Toto! :tease:I've been close enough to see one (several miles out) Close enough for me

Over the last few month Iv'e been looking into a bypass for my truck as well as the wife's new car, plan on keeping both for a long long time and it seems like a worthy investment. The Amzoil BMK21 is very comparable (they actually claim slightly better filtration) than the FS2500 and about a third of the price. I'm not promoting or demoting either system, this is just what I have read. I'm kind of leaning towards the Frantz just for the lower cost of replacement filters, it seems that many people have good oil analysis tests to show they work very well. The BMK21 is probably next in line due to filtration capabilities, low purchase cost, and parts and filters will be easily attainable for many years to come.

I love this time of year. Everything is coming into full bloom and for the first time in several months you can actually step outside and smell life. I especially love the smell after a light rain there's just something about it that fills the nostrils with something sweet. We have several apple trees in the back yard that are also in full bloom, very pretty.

If that question is for me, it is a low pressure indicator. I honestly would not pay money for one because it does not go off until your below 4 or 5 p.s.i. but it was given to me so I figured why not. It lights up like a christmas tree when it is triggered and I figured I would use it as a last call in case I'm in one of those dazed and confused moments if/when my lift pump craps out. "Hey stupid look at me!"

If I could afford the stuff I wanted, I'd be dangerous lol

I feel there are 4 criticals especially if you do heavy towing. Fuel pressure and egt's are a must. Trans temp is also important unless you dont do much towing. Ive only had one for 2 years now but I wish I had it longer. Like Rogan said boost isnt super important on a stock engine but I use the boost gauge in conjuction with my egt gauge to adjust my driving when towing anything heavy. For example If my egt is climbing and boost is down low, I might knock it down a gear or back out of the throttle a little. These engines are pretty tough but I feel alot better knowing where my engine is at in those terms.I have my boost, egt and trans temp on my pillar and I made a bracket for my fuel pressure gauge and bolted it into my ashtray. I have the gauge angled so that I can see it and the bonus is the green light thats in the ashtray lights up the gauge at night so I can see it. Nothing fancy by any means, but it's cheap and functional. I just bought a cheapo mechanical gauge, had next to nothing invested in it.

Question for those that have a Frantz by pass. On their website it states these systems are rated for engines with capacities of 8 - 10 quarts maximum. I only see one size canister, are you required to change the butt wipe more often to compensate for the larger oil capacity?My cousin runs a Spinner II centrifugal bypass and runs very long intervals. It is a very nice unit, also very pricey. I've never really looked at Amzoil products (particularly their oil) but was surprised to see their single element bypass units very comparable in price to Frantz's. Obviously the difference being in the cost of the filters (about 35 bucks compared to 35 cents) But in my case I would only be looking at one per year, so not a huge factor.

Check out Genos they've got them.

Any codes?

Sounds like it did it's job!

My Raptor frrp developed an internal leak after just barely a year, introducing air into the system and causing hard starts after sitting for a few hours. So I called Air Dog and they got a new one out right away, no questions asked. They don't even request my pump in return which I thought was pretty neat. Now some of you may remember my post a few weeks ago about the Air Dog 100 I had the chance to pick up for dirt cheap. I ended up taking it apart, the motor was fried without a doubt. So rather then throw it out like the guy was going to do I put it on the shelf in the garage, I just could not see throwing something like that out.Now fast forward a few weeks, my frrp craps out, I get a new one on the way and the guy tells me he doesn't want my old pump back . Out of curiosity I pulled my frrp apart to compare the differences between the 2 pumps. Turns out they're all common parts. I bolted the motor up to the Air Dogs Georator, put 12 volts to it and she made short work of a gallon of fuel! I can't hook it to my truck without hacking all my fuel lines apart but I have some fittings and fuel line coming from Vulcan. When I get it on the truck I'll update you guys with the performance and a few pics, but it looks pretty good so far.Here is a few pics for comparisonfrrp motorAirDog100 motorfrrp motor on the AirDog 100. Notice the little raptor sticker

So you would pull freeze plugs to "see what's inside" before you would run a bottle of cleaner through it? Not trying to be a putz but that's a lot of work! I'm not saying the stuff works magic, but if you use it as directed it does help. Theres a flush and a cleaner, the cleaner (What I used) you actually add to the system and run the engine for 5 or 6 Hours as you normally would. The cleaner has a chelating additive which breaks scale and sludge loose and suspends it in the coolant until you drain it next. It certainly wouldn't hurt to try it before taking drastic measures and tearing into an engine.

It would be interesting to know what was the fault in the new pump.

If you have doubts about the radiator, Prestone makes a pretty good radiator flush. I've actually seen a few different ones they make, the stronger ones have a little more acid or whatever it is in them. I flushed a Cavalier that was all gummed up with that dexcool crap. It kept over heating and the owner couldnt afford to pay a shop to look at it. After looking over everything real well I figured it had to be from all the gunk in the radiator. I ended up flushing it twice with that stuff, each time it looked like toilet water coming out. But it did cure the overheating problem. I've also seen the lower radiator hose collapse when the tstat opens. The hose was old and deteoriated and when the system was good and hot (made the hose even softer) it would actually collapse when the stat opened, restriciting flow to the point the engine would start to over heat. It was ok at idle but when the engine was under load it gave me fits until I figured it out.

It's a shame they've forgotten about the early 24 valve crowd

A good quality degreaser, let it soak for a few, and a low pressure wash will do just fine. May have to do it twice. Stay away from the air filter and make sure the engine is cool. You wont hurt a thing. When I was into 4wheeling I washed the engine bay down after every run to keep the mud build up down and inspect everything before the next outing.