Haggar

Its tough to measure the female. For the male many companies make a tool to measure the angle. See this video he shows the tool and how to check a male. you use the longer ends to reach into the female and check. No, sorry, I have VDO pyro. My FP is Autometer. VDO just didn't have what I wanted for fuel pressure. I hope they do in the future. You might be able to do the sharpie check, if you have a known male 45 and 37 to see which seals better.

bms, The stuff where no oxygen is will cure. The goo hanging out on the outside where it is surrounded by oxygen will not. It will stay gooey. This is why the 620 doesn't harden in the bottle.... In fact if you try to pressurize the bottle, it will leak, its made so that our ambient oxygen will migrate through the bottle and keep it from hardening. The primers work pretty good and help clean the area, but they don't do anything to cure the the goo that is exposed to oxygen. If you want to cure the stuff on the outside you will need to make an oxygen free atmosphere for it. It appears that acetone or iso-alch will act as a solvent and remove the un-polymerized portion HTH Hag

For you to have a point contact like the pictures, One fitting is JIC (37 degree) and an SAE fitting (45 degree) it is pretty easy to measure the angle on the male part of the fitting. The female gets a bit trickier, but you can do it. Measure your male. If it is 37 degree, paint some dychem on (black magic marker will work in this case) both mating faces. Lightly assemble the fitting. twist the male relative to the female under a bit of hand pressure. If they are the same angle (or close) they will show a nice full surface fit. If they do not (only make a ring like you see) they are not the same angle. Now it looks like the tolerance for both parts is +/- 2 degrees. So there can be a 4 degree difference, and this is where tightening brings the flared tubing into proper contact with the male part. So this is where tightening torque can become an issue. One big mistake my techs make, while tightening the first time, they do not hold the flared tube properly on center. (they let the assembly push the fitting. If they don't catch it, they will tighten it and it will make a lump. I don't see a lump in your picture.) The parker number series for female SAE (45 degree) swivel elbows is 37982 The parker number for female JIC (37 degree) swivel elbow is 33982. Vulcan could be easily supplied with the wrong fittings and never know it. Good luck! I know you are frustrated. Hag

John, I don't see why not at all. Should not make a difference. I hope you find your leak! maybe mine will be in the same spot! got my fingers crossed for you. Hag

John, You saw the low oil... darn was hoping that was it. (I have gotten bitten by that too many times to list.) Yes just test your rig sort of. Screw the low side to a valve you can close, and pull through the center and make sure your gauges are reading and your pump is really working. I have added short extensions with valves to my set, trying to minimize freon loss and air entrance during disconnecting. I have to test my stuff first since I don't use them on a daily basis anymore. they hang around the shop and get dropped and fiddled with much more than actually used anymore. see if it is something weird in your gauges (if your gauges leak down, you can't help but think the car might be doing it.) I am pretty sure I misread your post. I thought you were seeing a rising pressure while still vacuuming. (that is what I imagined in my brain) but you were hold testing. I don't trust the vacuum hold test. (too hard to trouble shoot really, and the shaft seal leaks anyway...) Go with a pressure test. run it up to 300 or so. (our high pressure doesn't trip until 450 to 490, safety valve is north of 500 IIRC) Hope you find it!!!!! I am still searching for mine.... I lose about 12oz a year and have not found it yet... never shows up on a static test. (vacuum or pressure or sniffer.... i get a hit occasionally on the sniffer, but no more than running around in the shop with it. nothing saying "bingo here stupid!") Hag

John, Slow movement on the vacuum could be two other things. Water in the system and bad vacuum pump. When you reach the proper pressure temperature balance, the pressure will stay constant until all the water boils off (function of water surface area, temp and pressure. Sometimes the water freezes off too, restricting how much or if any more will come out. We have had to heat the pipes in large lines to get them pulled down.) Do a quick test on your vacuum pump (your oil could be low, or have a lot of water in it itself.) (we change our oil frequently. Sometimes when its loaded with water, it can take hours for the oil to burn off all the moisture.) See if you can pull a vacuum against your gauges. 100psi should be a good check, but compressed air has a lot of moisture in it. so be careful. We use nitrogen, and can go up to rated system pressure. On the dodge I go up to about 300psi. Yes the outlet of the compressor will be a high pressure and high temperature gas. As it exits the condenser, the pressure is maintained, but temperature should have dropped some, so that the gas will turn into a liquid. (of course this process is not right with air in the system.) Compressor outlet temp can go to 200 F or so. I think they use 225 as a max or so (trying to protect the valves and oil....) Its hard to measure actual valve temp, but I would think it would be as much as 75 hotter than your measured area. Finding the stupid leak can be a total nightmare. With commercial ac systems, we have a hermetically sealed compressor, and can usually see our condenser and evaporator. With cars it becomes more of a crap shoot. Sometimes I use a sniffer. Sniffers are much cheaper now, and might be worth a look. GL Hag

Sooxies, Try this: http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=32310&SEName=38641 The oem number is 55274936AC . it seems to only be the square part that covers the metal. The dorman kit has two circular parts too. Sorry have not had trouble with my tailgate yet, so I don't know exactly what it looks like in there. (ok I lied, my latch release doesnt work exactly right, but I have not had hinge problems yet.) GL HTH Hag

I am seeing it as a 4333N national. Found that in a Timken cross reference catalog. I attached a copy. Search for 4333N. you will find a GM and chrysler cross. HTH Hag NSCOilSeals410027to9Y9895.pdf

Here is a picture of my hose replacement. Notice the metal line curves forward (toward the coil spring) to prevent the damage you are seeing. I think this replacement is a Dorman. I am not sure my original did this. I notice yours has more hose. could you bend your bracket toward the coil and help the problem? HTH Hag

spray bottle and water are not bad, but won't find the tiny leaks. But I think you are looking for a big one. (I use soap water first, then go to a leak detector. Good liquid leak detector stuff is available at any natural gas place or HVAC store Ferguson CC Dixson etc.) Here is Mike's article on it.

Glad you had time to peruse it! I agree with you, the way I read it, yours isn't "broken". lol Maybe a bit of lube on the pivot? See if that changes the slow return. I will try and check mine and think about it. my travel is so little, I don't know that I would notice a slow return.... HTH Hag

Leatherman, Read through this. It is one of the most concise description and diagnosis list I have seen.http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/operation-diagnosis-and-repair-of-hydro-boost-power-assist-systems/ Rebuilding the Hydro is not bad. I will try and dig up my old pictures. Will be offline for a few days, but will check in as I can. Good luck! Hope this helps Hag

The "restriction" may be the pump's pressure relief valve/regulator itself. In my construction equipment, and the hydraulic systems here at work, I see the fastest temperature rise in hydraulic oil when the system has to use its relief system. That vents the highest flow through the smallest orifice. While I have yet to see some of the troubles many of you guys have, I have been watching threads like this and developing a theory I need to investigate. Years ago, the instructions in a replacement pump told you to KEEP the pressure regulator from the old pump you were replacing. So basically, the regulators were vehicle specific (flow/pressures). The 2001 FSM shows a difference in flow for the PS unit for the vehicles that were equipped with hydroboost brakes vs the vacuum boost vehicles. (I hardly doubt the re-builders keep up with this nowadays....) Since I have not researched it, I am not sure if they did this through pressure relief, or actual pump flow rate (different housing and vane width). Most of our trucks have had this stuff swapped already so trying to develop the actual base line is going to be hard. I would love to get my hands on the tool for testing ( the 6815).... May have to build one myself. We could develop a flow/head curve for the system. In a skinny second, add a cooler! Many of the GM vehicles in the 60s and 70s with heavier engines got small power steering coolers. (I noticed them on the Toronados, Eldorado's Grand Prix and Riveras a lot.) I have also noticed many newer cars will loop an extra 3' to 4' of tubing going to the hard lines on the rack and pinion.

It rarely ever hurts to be bigger. (I would love to say never....but can't) In your case I cannot see that bigger diameter will hurt. (as long as the o-rings still seal properly) If your full level is still in the same place, you should be golden. Have a good one!

Frank, Ahhh I understand now. Sorry. I have been all through manual trans, but not really familiar with the 47RE. From an engineering stand point, The big things to look for are: Will the pickup get full flow of non-aerated fluid? Will the pickup be rigid in its location.... Even though it is knee deep in a viscous fluid, vibration can take a toll. (GM cheated and used the pan to hold the filter in place....) Is it too close to the bottom and picks up debris or gets a funny flow path? The fact that yours is longer, I wouldn't worry (unless the vibration issue becomes a factor.... without getting deep into the math, the longer you make it, the force is exponential, not just linear.) They possibly only made 1 length to fit many pans. so they only had to have one part. If you have thought through those components, you should be golden. Hag

Me, Wow, that isn't close. Could it be the input bearing being in backwards? (does this one not use the C-clip on the od to set its position?) If it got flipped, it would pull the main shaft forward.... But there should not be enough room in the front retainer to let you get away with it..... Good luck finding it! I really think the true location of the input shaft is off the input bearing and front retainer. The output shaft kind of floats, and is only limited in its movement by the output bearing. There were two input bearing widths on the 241. about 0.3" difference. Is that possible? Hag

Volks, Your F-150 may have been the "self energizing" type vs the later Duo-servo type braking systems. In the Duo-Servo (like on our Dodge) The Primary shoe (forward shoe) starts the braking action and triggers the Secondary shoe. The secondary shoe is the one that has the most mechanical advantage forced against it. So the secondary shoe performs a higher percentage of the braking force. You should put the smaller shoe towards the front of the vehicle (Primary) and the larger shoe to the rear (Secondary) on a duo-servo system. Larger shoe to the rear on most newer vehicles. Hope this helps! Hag

I don't think it will bother you at all if you are keeping the stock fluid level. (the fluid in the pan still holds the level in the pipe where it was "from the factory") If you were going to try and drop the level, you could run into NPSH problems. Hag

Tfaoro, For pulling the rear drive shaft during diagnosis, I found a lid to one of the wife's liquid laundry detergents to be the ticket. It slips inside the seal, and covers the outside too. It does not touch the output shaft. I use a bit of duct tape to hold it in place. Never lose a drop of TC oil, and have driven more that 200 miles one way, due to a broken yoke. It makes diagnosis of rear carrier bearings/universal/differential so much easier. Hope that helps! Hag

One thing to keep in mind, Dodge, Chevy, Ford assemble vehicles. They "for the most parts" don't build parts. They will only build their own parts if it is super cost effective, or to protect some type of technology. Sub contractors build the parts for them to assemble. Sometimes, those parts were made by sister companies (Saginaw, delphi, Fisher, etc were GM companies, but sisters to Chevy, Olds etc) As our trucks move further in time, Dodge may keep parts for us, but will not be sourced from the main channels (and main manufacturers). Dodge is not going to place a blanket contract for 10,000 ball joints from TRW or Delphi. They are just not going to see that many in the dealership. So, as the quantities fall, the sub contractor that gets the bid to fill the order, is smaller. While this is not always bad, it can affect the quality of the part. The OEM is only required to maintain parts for a car for 10 years if i am not mistaken. We just noticed this on some control arm bushings for a suburbasaurus. While the prices were significantly different for the replacement parts, comparing each of them out of the box, they all looked like they were from the same supplier. (A truck that old, I think moog, Delphi, etc, are buying the same parts, just putting them with their packaging. The molding marks were identical. The only one that looked different was ONE balljoint that had been on the store shelf for a long time (you could tell by the outside box, printing was different colors etc), it looked significantly different from the newer one from the same brand....) Hag

Welcome to the forum capn! That sounds like your grid heaters cycling. Take a few minutes and do some searches on grid heaters and what they do. This will help you understand them. You will probably notice a "click" just before the voltage drop. (that is from the grid heater relays.) It is pretty normal. HTH Hag

Sweet! Thanks! just one of those nuggets that I need to retain. ECM not the same, wiring diagram slightly different etc. Hag

Eddie, wow! Please when you see the other diagram, post it up here. It would be interesting to see if there was a slight change (and if there was, exactly when did it occur? Good luck! Hag

Eddie, I printed out my pinout from the 2001 FSM. I quickly browsed yours vs mine and saw no differences, but you may want to look more closely. I did notice the Article you are referencing is in the 3rd gen section. The two wiring diagrams most likely will NOT be the same. The theory for testing MAY transfer, but actual wire locations and functions Will be different. HTH! Hag 2001 FSM Ram 8W-80-40.pdf

diesel, I would not worry that there is any serious problem yet. The output shaft is only supported by one real bearing and one bushing. If the bushing has clearance, you can move the whole output shaft a lot. This would allow all kinds of things to move inside the transfer case. Good luck! Hag