Yankneck696

What version board do you have? Ed

Go to Bluechip's website & try the VP44 jumper tests. That will rule it out & we can move forth. Ed

T did have a bad gelling issue this winter with the new pump & if I remember correctly, it took a few days to get it started. With all of the cranking & gelled fuel, that is why I vote NO tap. Ed

Joe, being a former marine diesel tech, my standards are higher than others. I am not trying to be conceited at all in that statement. I have looked up the flow numbers of many filters & would not put out a product that clearly stated "Up to 98% at 5 microns". What about that 2%? Also, the flow rated vs PSI ratings of some of the filters used just cannot realisticly support what the claims are. I also personally know someone who used an Airdog unit that allowed the insides of his VP44 to be coated with rust stain. That is not acceptable to me. When I do something, I do it 100%. My future system will not be for everyone, but there are some that will be able to justify it. Ed

It is on hold at the moment. Probably later this year. The issue will be making one that filters & separates water to my standards & packaging it under the truck. Also, it WILL NOT be cheap. It will be HIGH QUALITY, though. Ed

I am quite surprised at the numbers on it for the 2nd gen. I did not think it possible, unless they have gone deep enough to raise the limits on the FPCU. Ed

That was also when Chip was still at Bluechip. Most remanufacturers will void a warranty, even with a stealth plate. Ed

At the 3K-4K limit, a shift kit & upgraded solenoid should do you fine. If you really want to do it right, get a single disk billet torque convertor. Heck, even a stock trans can handle that. I hauled quiute a bit more from Floriduhh to Utah & used OD most of the time, until I hit steep hills with a fully stock trans. Ed

Everything is on hold, until I get something else squared away. Ed

If I do go into the pump/filtration world, it will mostly be competition pullers & drag racers. Yeah, it'll have to go in the bed of the truck. The Wanna-bees will pay top dollar for it. For the Commonrails, the worst thing is getting a few molecules of water into a stroked CP pump, as they destruct when the water molecule turns to steam under the pressure. Then all the rest gets sent downstream. Ed

Again, I am not saying it is a bad setup, but as you may know, proper water seperation & filtration takes up space & is usually more expensive than the pump itself. What I have is 22.5" tall & 8" round to handle a "Rated" 180 GPM @ 15PSI. It is also an "Aquablock" filter element that will not pass a single molecule of water. Absolute filtering is 3 micron with no percentages added on at all. Yeah, it's stupid big & overkill, but it's the industry standard & probably the same brand on your locomotives. Ed

Your PF7977: 5 microns absolute, with an average efficiency of 99.31%. Water stripping: 97-99% free water, 92-95% emulsified water. And it has a dirt holding capacity of 25.5 grams. 509.1 sq in of filtration media... In a marine application, if you used that , you would be risking safety & lives. If it was a charter/commercial boat & something happened, you could be held criminally liable. It also cannot handle the flow & PSI that are required for a mild engine build. Dirt & water will get forced through at WOT in a 450HP - 500 HP engine. I am not trying to be argumentitive, just informative... Ed

It's nice looking & decently built. My only gripe would be the filter capacity at flow/pressure. What I had planned wouldn't ever fit under the truck, due to the size of the filtering required to properly filter at our flows & pressures. I worked in the marine diesel industry for 15 years & wouldn't use a spin on filter of that size, except for under 3 liters on a diesel engine. I don;t care what the fuel pump companies "Claim" for filtering & flow, as I have done the studying. The only way that they can flow to 3 micron (My personal standard) is to use a real filter that is not "Nominally rated". I have put everything on hold, due to another venture that (With some help) I can really revolutionize the 24 valve trucks & others in the future. It is slow going, but am hoping to get things cleared up this week & move forth on it. I am by no means trying to demean your find, as it is pretty nice, but if you go to even Baldwin, you will be hardpressed to find actual ratings on flow vs. pressure for their filters. .And the claim of "Up to 98% of 6 micron (To ME) means absofrigginloutely NOTHING. It's like the old K&N claim "Filters better when it gets dirtier".... We all know how that worked out. I have actually had my hands on a filter rating book we were (Against rules) slipped by the Detroit rep years ago & the ratings were horrible. There is no way in the world & could even think of using that garbage on someone's yacht, as people's safety & lives were at stake. We ONLY used the reccomended name brand filters specced by the engine manufacturer & no cheap Baldwin or other stuff. There is only 1 manufacturer for almost ALL OEM filtering on diesel engines around the world & there is a reason for that. It may say "CAT" on the filter, but someone else makes it. Ed Sorry for the rant....

The idea of the rear mounts will only work on an SAE adapter plate & trans. Ed

Warm it up properly before loading it heavily.... That's about it. Ed

Also, the low voltage might be the grid heaters coming on. Ed

2 micron is NEVER unwarranted. It should come stock. Ed

With the age of our trucks, poor electrical system when new & the funky stuff they put on the roads in Colorado, it would behoove you to go through all connections thoroughly. Ed

Foil is just a bandaid. Check the alternator properly & if the AC output is too high, have it properly rebuilt at an alternator shop. Many of the people that used the band-aids (Filters, foil, etc...) have had further issues like frying the ECM/PCM/FPCU (Computer on the VP44). Now, when I said ro check, clean & grease ALL connections, that meant EVERYTHING under the hood. A small amount of corrosion in 1 connector can cause many electrical gremlins. Ed

Sorry, didn't read it all the way through..... I can be soooo blonde, sometimes.... Ed

That is incorrect. The ONLY thing that disconnecting the batteries is delete the APPS high & low limit. You need to use a scanner to delete codes. It's not like your 88 Camaro.... Look in the "Articles" for our generation for the test procedures for codes. Also look up "Alternator AC noise" for how to test the alternator for AC voltage leakage. Clean ALL connections, slather with silicone Di-electric grease. ALL CONNECTIONS !!!!! You could be lucky enugh to just have a corroded or loose ground, or you could need a new VP44 injection pump. It also could be anything in the middle. Also, after having everything unhooked, you need to reset your APPS (Throttle Position Sensor). There should be an article on that, too Ed

Hex0rz, I tried to PM you, but could not. Your inbox may be full. Ed

lethargic or agressive pedal would present themselves. Erratic shifting could also appear. It really doesn't take long & insures a proper running truck. That said, I have the TIMBO. I did have the batteries disconnected for over an hour. I reconnected them & checked the TPS% on my Quad for giggles & it was spot on. I still disconnected the batteries for another 45 minutes & recalibrated, but I am slightly anal about the truck running right. Ed

"A bigger straw lets you launch bigger spitballs" (EG) Of course, it will help some, but don't expect drastic results. Ed

The TIMBO "Supposedly" doesn't need it, but what can it hurt? Check to see your turbo timer settings on the Quad. 60s might be burning a tad hotter than your old stockers. Ed