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Yankneck696

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Everything posted by Yankneck696

  1. Liveoak, you can swap between HO & SO at will. I have an HO pump on my SO truck & the person I got it from (Ghostman) has an SO on his truck. Ed
  2. SOme users here do not like to go to CF. Please cut & paste the semi outcome here... Ed
  3. My trans is not ready for the injectors, so I thought I would put them to good use... Tyler is good people & that is what our community is all about. Ed
  4. I have personally seen what looked like a 1/4 or 5/16 compression T on one before, but would be leery of vibration & fatigue. Ed
  5. Try a big truck shop & you may get a better price. I personally do not thing a BHAF can be beat. Ed
  6. Eventually, I will put out a product that removes the T all together. It will have to wait for warmer weather for final testing. Ed
  7. Nope. they are just short pieces of fuel line. Ed
  8. To check the tie rod, jack the side up (I usually do both sides when checking steering WITH JACK STANDS). Grab front & rear of tire and try to wobble backk & forth. You will see the slop. As for the steering box, you can adjust that easilt. I am not sure if there is an article here, but if not, google it. If the box tightens up & there is still slop, loog at the top rag joint near the firewall. Have someone steer the wheel back & forth & see if it is sloppy. Disconnect stabilizer & see if there is resistance both ways. Should be similar to a non gas charged shock. Ed
  9. If it was a battery drawing the other dow, you would get the .5 amps between the batteries. Just keep pulling fuses till you find the offending circut. Ed
  10. Check back with them. It is my understanding that all they sell is the whole T fitting. Ed
  11. Holy carp, Michael has been right all along??????? I guess I can stop wearing my tin foil hat, remove the foil from my ground, pull the 14 Radio Shack noise filters & my lead lined condom......... Ed
  12. It's all bout that leverage, bout that leverage, bout that leverage...... LOL Now that'll be stuck in your head all day. 1/2 inch more of aluminum further from the center point of the axle & whatever the diameter difference in rotor size X.5 equals more rotating mass. It may make a slight difference. May be measurable, may not. Ed
  13. Commonly on many vehicles, it's the underhood light. Unplug it & see if the draw dissapears. Other than that, I agree with our fearless leader. Pull a fuse at a time to isolate. Ed
  14. That's what I did. Went to NAPA, told them "I want 2 #####". Went home with them, put them on, gravity bled them. Drove off. Well, I did do a full brake hardware kit & new shoes. All of that took 1 1/2 hours. If I was doing just the cylinders, it would take about 1/2 hour per side. Ed
  15. You have an older unit that was under the original owner's guidelines. Should be fine. Just keep a watch on your FP gauge. Ed
  16. Cummins Performance Parts or Vulcan Performance Ed
  17. And, they can conveniently lose your warranty card..... You may notice that Airdog has NO presence in any of the general diesel forums, but Fass does & publicly posts about issues regularly. Ed
  18. My warranty replacement pump just about a year ago had wild fluctuations right off the bat. I constantly came to their defense, until I had problems & my replacement was junk. ME##### had, I believe 5 replacements. Read http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/general-diesel-discussion/905914-please-beware-pureflow-products-including-airdog-raptor.html That will show the continued lack of correcting the issues & excuses. Ed
  19. Yeah, if you get a current Airdog, just mount it with wingnuts for faster swapout...... Ed
  20. Even for diff lubed bearings, I have always lightly greased them. Even really packing them will cause no harm at all, as the warmed diff lube will eventually disolve the grease. Ed
  21. If you have 430 Ma loss from the alternator, it is most definitely shot. Ed
  22. We should start a collection of the lame excuses from the Stealerships. Ed